Hmm curious about a few things here. Did you use arp bolts on your twin disc. Its an easy mistake to make and it will cause big problems they are too long.
Another post about that and his clutch was also prematurely slipping and wrecked.
Another thing is have you pulled it out yet to check for backed out flywheel or pressure plate bolts? Curious to see some pics when you get it out of there.
I went thru a cartech at only 400 engine hp in a few thousand miles. It was due to my adjustable master messing up and making the clutch drag/slip all the time. I never tracked it and barely every launched it. Dissection showed it to be very burnt up. Posted some pics in this forum I think a few weeks ago.

Also are you slipping the clutch a lot at the track trying to save your drivetrain or are you dumping it. Would think at your power levels pretty much have to dump it at track. And sure the slipping on nittos isn't wheelpsin at your power level? I thought these type of metallic clutches would stick better as they get hotter unlike normal clutches that fade when they get hot but them maybe come back after.

Another possibilty to could leaking rear seal or leaking from that thing behind pilot bushing.Oil will make clutches slip big time and wear them out too I would think. Sounds like behind the pilot can be pushed in pretty easily with too much grease or toiler paper trick to take out pilot. Not a very good design on gms part putting that thing that can go into block behind the pilot.

Just looking for some possible explanations. So far haven't read about many twins not doing the job. And one for sure was arp bolts.

ARP bolts will cause the clutch to "drag", as the bolt heads hit the rivets on the inner disc.

This will only affect shifting gears. It will not affect how it grips.

Been there done that.

I pulled the clutch and all the bolts were tight. At the track I was dumping the clutch at around 6K cutting 1.50 60'. The clutch didn't seem to be slipping in gears 1-3, it slips in 4-6. Here are pics of my clutch.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00441.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00442.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00443.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00444.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00445.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00446.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00447.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00448.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00449.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00450.jpg

The plates etc certainly dont look badly worn.

Can you bolt the clutch assembly back together, and see what the fingers look like ? Ideally, they should be nearly flat.

Here are pics of it bolted together. The fingers do have alittle bit of an angle/slope to them.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00451.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00452.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00454.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...2/DSC00455.jpg

I would guess, but it is only a guess, you could machine the posts down a little for more clamp.

But generally, there looks to be nothing wrong with the clutch, from a mechanical point of view.

if there was some sort of hydraulic issue, or incorrect release bearing positioning, that was holding on the fingers, that could cause premature slip as mentioned.

By machining the stands that the pressure plate bolts to, how much more clamping force can be gained. I guess I really need to get ahold of Pete at Textralia.

TH400s have a clutch?

lol, jk. With that kind of power you will end up toasting most clutches sooner than later. Go to a 400.

Yeah I know, but I will keep putting clutches in it before I go with a auto. If I ever did go auto it would be a 4L80 not a damn TH400. :jest:

Yes Texrailia triple in both cars. Did you check your measurements and do you have enough clearance between the slave and the presureplate? That is what was happening when the dual was installed in the black car. They had already upgraded to the triple when they checked the measurement and had to remove more material @.080 if I remember correctly. Doesn't look in bad shape really. The marks are just the material that is in the disc.

No I did not check the measurement between the slave cylinder bearing and the pressure plate. Really, how is that going to be able to be done when everything has to be bolted up. I guess a hole could be drilled in the bell housing to be able to look at it but to be able to measure it would be very hard.

We have an exedy in my dads car and it's junk...Wont even hold the car on motor..535rwhp...The ram 910 grabbed better than it.

It's also lighter.

We bolted up the belhouseing after the clutch was installed and TQd took a stait edge and measured a few different points and took the smallest and then with the slave on the trany mesured from the salve to the face of the trany and took the largest and then took a little off to make sure that there was going to be no presure on it when fully disengaged. Atleast I believe that is what Jarrod and I did it's been a couple of months so you might give them a call at Texrailia and see how they recomend doing it etc... I think he was shooting for .040 clearance.

Well I talked with Pete and he wanted me to mill the pressure plate stands on the flywheel so that the fingers on the pressure plate had about .020 angle to them. So I did that (took .055 off the stands) and the clutch is slightly better but still slips in 4th gear when you get on it. :mad2:

rps triple carbon

Spec twin-disc will hold over 1100 on the ground with a stock clutch pedal feel.

$4K, no thanks.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...2/DSC00450.jpg its cause youre using a bearing and not a bushing!

been running one of the prototype spec twins when they first came out. Been in for 18 months or so. Havent touched it, im over 830rwhp. I think its finally do for a rebuild though.