1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

What all is needed to make this work? (PWM) Pulse Width Modulated bypass valve?

Anyone used it? I like the different stages because it would help on the street and at the track

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Im looking at it also since those PWM valves are only like $40 each and since ya already have it why spend another $500+ on another boost controller.

To the top.

Kurt???

Kyle

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

you dont always have to drop boost.... you can just drop timming on the starting line and slowly ramp it back in.... sometimes it will work by itself unless you are using an ungodly amount of power on 10.5 tires then you will have to limit the boost and timming and slowly ramp them back in....

it really doesnt matter how much it costs your gonna have to have it... i do know that the electronic vavles aren't that expensive...

just call up precision turbo... i think thats where john meaney is or call up wheel2wheel

427

iTrader: (3)

The piece you pulled from the BS3 instruction is in reference to the staged control, it would have 3 stages and the spring if you work it right, that gives you 4 boost settings. The pmw does not have stages, it counts off time or tps signal. I have run this a while back on the engine dyno, and it was pretty nice, but staged would lend itself to drag racing more.

Kurt

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i would prefer boost vs front wheel speed, but thats just me

i allready own the eb2 or i would have gone ahead and fiddled with the bs3 boost control.

for a race car i think its better than a street car yep.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Kurt what extra is needed to make it work on a Car that is just ordering BS3??

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Just the solenoids and probably some type of orifices. I had some custom ones made and might have a few left. They are 1/8 npt female to 1/8 npt male and have the orifice in the fitting itself. You can probably start on the small side (maybe 0.040") and go up from there until you get the right control. You might want to run ports to both the top and bottom (to have pressure holding the wastegate closed). You need the orifice so the solenoid can exhaust the pressure quickly. If you have a huge amount of flow going it will not be able to function properly.

You can do the PWM method with either mph or rpm which you configure in the 'boost parameters' section.

These guys can help out with the solenoids:
http://www.injection-connection.com/

Same ones the fancy AMS-1000 controller uses.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Thanks man.


Kyle

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

Cool I was also told nitrous noids will work too... I am just going to use the manual boost controller till I can get this working. I have to go to SA to have Murillo tune it on Friday

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

These are the vavles? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

From my understanding the BS3 sends a single to open the valve at a set rpm or mph.

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

No those arent it.... thats a manual Boost controller.... I had that.... sucked ***...............

427

iTrader: (3)

Some people use up to three of these and three solenoids. The BS3 controls the solenoids in three stages, and you turn the regulator to set the boost. It seems to work smoother with CO2 as the feed for them.
Some use three solenoids to create a controlled leak in the line to the bottom of the gate, which in turn drives boost up. Without C02 its hard to get a very wide delta, which is helpful with a high power little tire car.


Kurt

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

Seems alot better to just buy a dual stage manual boost controller like the ones in summit.

1INSANEGTO

iTrader: (13)

Quad Stage Boost Controller




I think you should be able to use these because all the BS3 does is send voltage at a set rpm or mph.

IE remove the switch and run the + from the BS3 itself

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Maybe it will work alot better with CO2. Ill be using it this time out also...