daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

what do you think about your stalled auto and you daily driver...
im wanting to build a car that is 100% streetable that i could literally basically let me old grandfolks drive to the store and drive home, no loss of comforts ac everything intact, small if any cam. havent decited on cubic inches but the cars 2800 pounds so i might go 370 or 402 very very small cam...quiet quiet exhaust

my question is i have a 3500 stalled auto in my camaro and imo it kills driveability...what do yall think about it?

i want this car to be able to track decent while still trapping 145+
really want to run 40-140 with the car...auto gets to the point where your running outa gear have to deal with lockup converter possibly, but mine does hit VERY hard from a 40 roll, and i kill almost any compatible 6 speed...6 speed i could simply goto 5th but have to deal with clutches, stiff once to be exact and leg tired more to think about and mess up while racing...ect?

yall think i could get a small enough stall to stall under 2200 or so from redlight and still be able to build boost at the track off the line, and be efficient!?

discuss...which is more comfortable

mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

Turbo + Auto is the shiz.

I had a stick with an Exedy Twin clutch and eventually converted to an auto. There is really no comparison for a street car. It's much more fun to drive. No worries about getting stuck in construction traffic, etc.

I sacrifice good sixty foots at the track for something that is tons of fun on the street. My convertor is perfectly spec'd for my turbos / gear combo so boost partial throttle gets me a near instant 5-6 lbs of boost. Awesome for getting around in traffic.

otherwhitemeat

iTrader: (3)

well i got a t91 and a stick and looken to trap 160+ and the stick is at its limits and i will be going to a auto in the future...it is mint for the street but when it come down to it a auto will win in most races....the problem you are going to have is you need a 4l80 that is well built to live with the power...a 4l60 ain't gonna cut it and the other is you will never build boost with a little stall like 2200 rpm...you gota put that thing in the rpm where the turbos would come on....or you can spray it off the line.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

spray off the line IS an option...i can do a window switch from 2000-(3800-4000) till it spools...

it might be a 60-e, ive got a guy thats a sponsor on other sites not here that has one of his trannies that lives behind 1200hp...
plus my car is light which wont stress the tranny as much, but an 80-e is an option, thats not really the discussion...unless he tells me that i should go 80-e i wont, idont wanna have to deal with crossmember and wiring and swapping stuff...
doesnt an 80-e have longer first?

mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

Which I think would be a very reasonable compromise for a true street car that spends nearly all of its time on the street and sees the track once or twice a season.

Is there really any difference on trans wear (I know heat kills them) between pulling a 1.5 sixty foot instead of a 1.8 or 1.9 because of the juice instead of a larger stall?

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

of its harder on anything its harder on it all..im sure it will put more stress on the car..but i can have a timing tunder pulling maybe 7 degrees for a 125 shot as long as it doesnt detonate with that low of a nitrous hit i think id be fine...but id only do this on a built motor!

btw my camaro has pullled 1.4x 60 on a 60-e over 100 times...sees the street 2-3 times a week and over 300 miles...used to be daily driven, prolly has 100 track passes all this in the las year and a half and its still alive...countless runs from 40-140, one run to 170 on spray(yes overdrive) and its still kicking...i think my tranny guy can give me the same tranny and it would live behind a 2800 pound car for a long time

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

auto, cuz my g-ma couldn't push down the pedal when i had 6 speed

otherwhitemeat

iTrader: (3)

btw my camaro has pullled 1.4x 60 on a 60-e over 100 times...sees the street 2-3 times a week and over 300 miles...used to be daily driven, prolly has 100 track passes all this in the las year and a half and its still alive...countless runs from 40-140, one run to 170 on spray(yes overdrive) and its still kicking...i think my tranny guy can give me the same tranny and it would live behind a 2800 pound car for a long time[/QUOTE]


**** at 2800 pounds i think your 4l60 might be ok......but me and my buddys are trying to make 1600-2000 hp at the crank

red beast

I like my 6-speed but I drive my car sometimes 3 hours straight on the interstate and a stalled auto just won't do....if you go twin disc the peddle feel will not be hard at all, mine is rated to 1400ft lbs and isn't much more harder to push than stock...

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

i drive mine a lot...2400 stall..tbrake with a lockup 4l80e. I like it and would never want to drive a 6speed in atlantas traffic

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Gotta love it.
Easy to drive, kicks azz when asked.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

auto here. I have driven both and with that, though the stick is more fun, I don't think your grandma is gonna still bake you some cookies if she has to drive a m6 with a aftermarket clutch.

Also, you curb weight might just be low enough to keep the 60e but, the swap deal isn't as bad when you consider that you now have a th400, with a 4th gear, and it holds 700ftlbs. stock.

RW99

The McLeod twin disc setup is still easy to engage (w/adjustable master). But if you're ever in heavy stop and go traffic just about any manual sucks. And you'll be so much more consistent with the auto, unless you're an M6 God.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

well is any1 knows the 80-e swap then lmk pm me a quick list of what id have to do, i.e. crossmmber/wiring/converter/tuning/weight/and size compared to 60-e(ill try and do some research)
trannies aside....
i meant to say tell me what auto you have
power you make
and stall if you dont mind
along with 60' and 1/4 e.t/trap speed, that should really help A LOT

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Any car that is TRULY a daily driver should be auto. If you have a spare vehicle, then there is a choice to be made. Even a minor injury such as a sprained ankle can make using a clutch difficult, but a broken arm or leg can make grinding your own gears downright impossible. I like a stick for driving fun, but I wouldn't have one as my only vehicle. I have had to borrow a friend's vehicle in the past because my only car was a stick that I couldn't operate due to injury. I learned my lesson.

Silverback

What kind of converter do you have that’s unstreetable at 3500rpm stall? Expensive converters tend to be different mostly in part throttle response, higher dollar converters tend to act more “stock” with higher stall speeds. Something like a PI or Vigilante will feel stock to most grandmothers at light throttle well in to the 3xxx rpm range.

As far as the rest of this, I’d take a note from the GN/TTA development guys, as well as most of that crowd with mildly modded cars. Those things came with mild cams, mild converters and a much smaller engine than I’m sure your considering and were quite fast. With the development mules they found that it wasn’t worth building a stick version because when they tried it they found it was much slower and killed a lot of the fun, where the combination of mild parts made big torque. The guys with mild mods rarely went with cams much bigger then stock or big stall converters, but mostly just modded for more boost and easily got deep into the 11’s.

In this case, 2 more cylinders, roughly 1-1/2x the cubic inches, and much, MUCH better heads = proportionally more power in what should be a lighter car.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

its a yank...and its very efficient but that combined with loud exxhaust i cant talk to a passenger when taking off from a light....ive got a message in with yank about it and i think if i can get a lower str 3000 small diameter stall and flash it on a 125 shot or so that id be fine and it would be a lot more tame...hoping i can take off with traffic and keep it under 2200rpm....i can also help this in the tuning which is one problem with my camaro is that ts shifts stack, and at 23-25 its already in 4th and the stall is stretching, but since i hardly drive it im not bothered much...

as for now i think im goana go ahead and go auto...i think i can get yank to put together a small enough stall that i could flash it on nitrous and still get some 1.5-1.6 60'...if theres something i know its nitrous...

im just trying to do some research and plan out my build, mostly because im new to boost im trying to understand whats working for differant people to piece together my setup....

i cant decide cubic inches/turbo and accessories/electronics
car is goana be 2800 or so pounds....im going to have to make the kit basically, thats why id rather do a single, im goana use truck manifolds from what i hear they should be just fine for my setup (although i wish i had something similar for cheap that would look nicer)
i want to be able to up the boost maybe even spray a little nitrous on top of the boost (rather not, but will do it if im at the turbos limit) to make somewhere around 1000-1200 fwhp (i think i ned somewhere areound a 88mm, but i hear a few people sayin 1000+ is capable on a "GTS76"

theres a few guys around here with 1400+hp vipers and id like to be close(actually in front) they trap mid 160's in the 1/4, and ill just say if mighty mouse makes 900 and traps 148, and im 800-1000 pounds less i might not need that kinda power...
i also dont have to make all that power if i have a better powerband with decent revs, which would also make up for converter slip up top, maybe 7200rpm (not too high)
idk if i can do all this with a 370, or should i go 408? i REALLY wanna go aluminum, but seems like no1 can keep heads on anything, keep hearing iron wont flex as much and is better

heads now id like to keep heads stock to keep cost down, mayb truck heads with some good springs...fresh valve job(dont know if the deck will be think enough though).....maybe o ring?

cam small maybe a 216/216, if i go 408 i could go a little bigger maybe 220/220 something

electronics im not sure, i know these guys around here use a boost controler that controls boost per gear, so they can limit power where theres limited traction down low....dont know if we have something similar to that that will work on ls1

blow off valve/wastegate/boost controaler/PCM?/turbo/piping (have to make kit) all this i am kinda lost about

trt is here in town and i know they can tune, heard a few of yall say they are good...they will probably be tuning it...id like to get this thing together soon, but definately finished before the winter is over

can yall guys give me some helpful links about some differant stuff???
maybe where i can buy piping/flanges? what kinda coating are yall guys using?

ABeasst

iTrader: (5)

I drove my M6 after dis-locating my knee and it becoming the size of a canalope. Funstuff. I love the M6 and will prolly never get rid of it. At 600RWHP now and will be pushing it until I run out of turbo.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

i know i made a long post, basically at a complete loss on what part i need for turbo kit...looking into other setups similar to mine to get ideas...and reach my goals