Any on-line write-ups for keying crank w/ ATI key kit
11-26-2007, 01:40 AM
#1
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Any on-line write-ups for keying crank w/ ATI key kit Finishing a heads/cam install for a P1SC. Have the ATI crank pin drill fixture kit for LS1's. The directions are clear as mud. Please help the retarded 
Has anyone taken pics of the process or have a clear write-up so we can git-er' done w/out screwing the crank up?
Tried the search. That didn't yeild an answer. Thanks.
Has anyone taken pics of the process or have a clear write-up so we can git-er' done w/out screwing the crank up? Tried the search. That didn't yeild an answer. Thanks.
11-26-2007, 04:46 AM
#2
Staging Lane
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Here's what I did:
First, don't use the reamer they supply. I went with one .0005 smaller and am glad I did. I fear my pins would have not been a slight interference fit if I'd used their reamer.
The crank can go in any position since LS engines are internally balanced. I guess if you are super **** you can clock #1 to TDC and rig up some kind of pointer for a timing light.
Drill carefully and don't be afraid to flush the chips away with a solvent. Cover anything sensitive with rags and masking tape.
Don't use compressed air. Use a shop vac instead. You don't want chips falling into the pan somehow. (assuming you are doing this with the engine in the car)
I didn't use the supplied drill either. I am a machinist so I used split point jobber length drills instead. They cut with far less tool pressure. (less chance of oversizing the hole from deflection)
Lock the drill bushings tight. Use a flat blade screw driver, don't rely on finger tight.
Use a smidge of loctite when installing the pin.
What I did different. I installed multiple (3) pins all in a row to act like a drift key. I didn't order the balancer with an additional key way broached 180* from the other.
Just a little added surface area for the balancer to bite into.
You have to be careful if you decide to do this. Very easy to get them out of alignment which will really give you hell. Those pins are harder than a *****'s heart so trying to file one down that is out of alignment will be a challenge also.
Just follow the rule: "Measure twice and cut once."
Good luck!
First, don't use the reamer they supply. I went with one .0005 smaller and am glad I did. I fear my pins would have not been a slight interference fit if I'd used their reamer.
The crank can go in any position since LS engines are internally balanced. I guess if you are super **** you can clock #1 to TDC and rig up some kind of pointer for a timing light.
Drill carefully and don't be afraid to flush the chips away with a solvent. Cover anything sensitive with rags and masking tape.
Don't use compressed air. Use a shop vac instead. You don't want chips falling into the pan somehow. (assuming you are doing this with the engine in the car)
I didn't use the supplied drill either. I am a machinist so I used split point jobber length drills instead. They cut with far less tool pressure. (less chance of oversizing the hole from deflection)
Lock the drill bushings tight. Use a flat blade screw driver, don't rely on finger tight.
Use a smidge of loctite when installing the pin.
What I did different. I installed multiple (3) pins all in a row to act like a drift key. I didn't order the balancer with an additional key way broached 180* from the other.
Just a little added surface area for the balancer to bite into.
You have to be careful if you decide to do this. Very easy to get them out of alignment which will really give you hell. Those pins are harder than a *****'s heart so trying to file one down that is out of alignment will be a challenge also.
Just follow the rule: "Measure twice and cut once."
Good luck!
11-26-2007, 08:19 PM
#4
No stocker will not work there is no key way, to boot it only works with a 6 rib drive. That has been nothing but problems. Save yourself major problems and up grade to the 8 rib drive.
Which will require a ATI Dampner. Get with Bob @ Epp, he can set you up with what you need.
Which will require a ATI Dampner. Get with Bob @ Epp, he can set you up with what you need.
11-27-2007, 06:54 PM
#6
funny you make this post-i am doing this now
the directions say to remove the crank gear, but not the key-it looks like the key is almost flush with the end of the crank gear-is the hole supposed to end up near the end of the crank? w/o the crank gear on, seems like the hole would end up to far in, unless the key is supposed to hold it out the right distance-i assume the tool goes on with the taper inwards, kind of matched what the ati 8 rib pulley seal area looks like-i agree, a picture would have been nice
thanks
the directions say to remove the crank gear, but not the key-it looks like the key is almost flush with the end of the crank gear-is the hole supposed to end up near the end of the crank? w/o the crank gear on, seems like the hole would end up to far in, unless the key is supposed to hold it out the right distance-i assume the tool goes on with the taper inwards, kind of matched what the ati 8 rib pulley seal area looks like-i agree, a picture would have been nice
thanks
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11-27-2007, 09:20 PM
#8
FormerVendor
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To keep everyone on the same page, only the GTO and the Fbody can be pinned from the front.
The Fbody ATI pulley is not large enough to fit the vette pin kit inside the hub. Therefore, you must pin from the side, with the ATI crank fixture.
The Fbody ATI pulley is not large enough to fit the vette pin kit inside the hub. Therefore, you must pin from the side, with the ATI crank fixture.
11-28-2007, 12:17 PM
#9
im using the vette style balancer, 8 rib, and it has the keyway already-i just need to know im drilling it in the right place-the confusing part is they say to remove the crank gear, not the key, which is flush with the front of the crank gear-their only 20 mins away from me, maybe i'll ride up there and go over it with them
11-28-2007, 07:57 PM
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One more tip - crank shaft snouts are VERY hard, especially after market ones, so get a good variable speed drill, a few sharp, HARD bits, and take it slow (as in drill speed). It's a 12 pk kind of job....
11-29-2007, 02:07 PM
#13
ok, heres a little update-my fixture had the wrong inst. with it-didnt need to remove the cover, oil pump or crank gear-the inst. at the top said "for ls1 with distributer", which i kind of ignored
the new inst. say to just rem. the bal., then slip the fixture on, lock down with the balancer bolt, the you put in the smaller drill guide, lock it in place with the screw, drill, repeat with reamer guide-as said, be careful with the reamer, i would do it by hand
since i had mine all apart, i lined up the fixture with the keyway, so after drilling it and placing the pin, i can slide the crank gear over the pin and right over the keyway-if the were not lined up you might have to knock the pin out to get it on-i actually turned the fixture around, so the pin hit the middle of the balancer area
if you need a pic, i can take one, just dont know how to post pics
the new inst. say to just rem. the bal., then slip the fixture on, lock down with the balancer bolt, the you put in the smaller drill guide, lock it in place with the screw, drill, repeat with reamer guide-as said, be careful with the reamer, i would do it by hand
since i had mine all apart, i lined up the fixture with the keyway, so after drilling it and placing the pin, i can slide the crank gear over the pin and right over the keyway-if the were not lined up you might have to knock the pin out to get it on-i actually turned the fixture around, so the pin hit the middle of the balancer area
if you need a pic, i can take one, just dont know how to post pics
