Won't idle
 

Okay, been hearing a lot from me lately but... need a little advice.

Car is still tuned for a stock ls1 with LT's, ORY, and hotcam with the turbo.
Now has bone stock 02 LQ4 with 01+ f-body manifolds and cats.

This thing will idle in the driveway, surging every now and then, but livable, but as soon as you drive the thing and push in the clutch or come to a stop, engine dies. You can restart it and it'll idle fine, but as soon as you drive again and go to stop it dies. Is this soley due to the tune being WAY off? Under boost I get 0 knock retard, I've logged that, and it's nothing codes. Not sure if I need to have this rough tuned again for the 6.0L or what. The buyer of this car is going to have it tuned, but would be really nice to have it at least idle for him. Have a pcm4less (jesse bubb) pcm and tune so I can send it back to him and have it recalibrated. Won't be spot on, but at least it SHOULD idle, right? Trying to get my check valve issue situated, so I can get this damn thing sold. Opinions?

wow, your in the exact same situations i was in last year getting my sts kit installed!! i also had all sorts of shit go wrong: car drove like shit, had oil issues, etc. and in the end it ended up being just random things... i'll try to help you the best i can! i understand all the frustration your going thru!


so first off, are there any codes? mine threw a couple codes, and i ended up having a bad MAP sensor. also that pcm tune for a hotcam isnt helping! lol, again, i also had a mail order tune done and they just dont work.... it would be cool if you could copy my tune or something, that would at least be a start

LOL yeah, no codes here. Ran like a champ with the hotcam/long tubes. Doesn't run worth a shit without those mods, that's what's so frustrating. Mail orders done do crap, but better than nothing. Will at least get you to a dyno, and that's all I need. Stop and go, and boosting without KR, that is my primary concern. Don't want the new owner to blow it up on his way to the shop. Funny we've had the same nightmare problems, and I really do wish I could copy your tune LOL!

Crappy map sensor?Vacuum leak maybe.....Had a similar problem w supra and it was a combo of things...MAp/maf sensor boost leak....Imprpoper timing,,,,Etc......
Clogged fuel filter?..........

Okay, got the pcm retuned and it idles like a champ but... when it is boosted it still dies. I did notice something also, very strange, when in the driveway in neutral when I rev it... if I hold the pedal to the floor off idle, vacuum goes to zero, and then backs off to about 5 inches, let off, goes to 12-15. Floor it, same thing. If I hit it hard, it will sit there and eventually make boost, but it's almost as if I am flooring it and gradually letting off the gas. When driving, I don't notice this other than the fact that it dies when boosted. I have the reference for the WG tied to a tube right before the throttle blade on the turbo side. I have the BOV tied to the same line(s) the boost gauge, and brakes are going to. What am I doing wrong?

Anyone? Sure could use the help.

Okay, just worked on it again. It's idling now perfectly at 550rpm. Rev it, idles back where it should without hunting... Still get it pulling vacuum on the gauge when I rev it, goes to 0 then pulls 5-8 inches. Once the exhaust is hot, I can rev it, and it will go to 0, then to about 5, then 1psi after the turbo spools. Anyway... this is with the car in neutral. I push in the clutch, and try and rev at all, even give it 1/8th throttle, it surges... rum.... rum..... rum.... rum.... like fuel cutoff. Will not go above around 1500rpm and it's in a pattern. As soon as I release the clutch, I can free rev again. Guessing it has something to do with the tune, because it didn't do this before. LOL If it's not one thing it's another! Will contact Jesse @ W4M and see what he says. Anyone else run into this?

sounds like there is some kind of launch control build into that tune. I know people who use a similar secondary rev limiter when the clutch is in to help get a good consistent launch at the track.

That's what it sounds like... Didn't ask for it... don't like it. I could understand if it were set to like 3-4k... but not 1500... Makes it impossible to drive on the street.

Likely won't build boost with no load on the engine.. EGT and PSi in the exhaust is too low, given no load.

I know, that's what doesn't make sense. Almost like he meant to put it at like 35 or 4500, and ended up at 1500 for whatever reason. I could see how if it did what it's doing at higher rpm it'd get that sucker spinning pretty good to at least build a few psi, who knows. Emailed Jesse, waiting to hear back. Need this fixed so I can get rid of this darn car! $12k is CHEAP.

Called Jess today, he said he didn't mess with anything like that. Crazy since I haven't touched the car other than that, and it didn't start happening till it got back, but thats my luck, and how it goes. He recommended disconnecting the clutch anticipation switch under the pedal. I'll try that and see what happens. I need someone to come get this car.

You really need someone to personally tune it with scanners ect.

Sucks that there's no one local here. Gotta love the Central Valley in California, kind of sad. I have live, I don't have flashscan, and my edit cable is burnt up. Just trying to get it somewhat running so people can test drive it and see the car actually runs, the motor is strong, and everything is functional. Doesn't need to be tip-top tuned, just runnable, since I'm selling it as "needs a tune".

Thats too bad you have no tuners around.Ussually the biggest thing that sells a car is the running condition.If it stalls or runs crappy it's a turn off.

you need to take it up to Synergy and have Rick take a look at it...... i had to tow my car up there because it ran like total shit, and they fixed all the problems for me. it wont be cheap, but they will get it running so you can sell it off.

Why do you think I'm selling for $12k? LOL

Okay, so I disconnected the clutch anticipation switch like jess said, and with the clutch in or out it does it now. When I reconnect it... push in the clutch, and push in the switch, it revs (obviously). What is wrong?