verbs

The kit isn't cheap to begin with, and for a kit that took so long to develop, you'd think some of these issues would have been addressed already.

This quote from Warbird didn't sit well with me, and I hope this is not the norm with these kits. Can anyone shed any light on this?

Please keep this thread civil, as I'm looking for information on this kit.

02BlueFirehawk

If you dont feel comfortable buying the kit, don't buy it.

I expected to change things right off the bat before even buying it. Just by looking at their pictures on their site: 1) I knew I'd be jethotting the kit. 2) I knew that front mount intercooler wouldn't work well at all or at least not without a intercooler-cooler to help it along. 3) I knew I'd wind up spending more money on a SLP radiator because of the intercooler location. 4) I knew the wires were awfully close in the pics they showed so I knew heat shields would be needed.

I didn't know about the oiling problem or the passenger side manifold problem. I'll install mine and see if I get those problems as well and if so fix accordingly.

squirrel masta

great this is just great i ordered my kit like two months ago and am expecting it soon and allready spent every penny i had on it now im hearing bad about it, i should just sell the car because i dont want a 7000 dollar piece of crap.i dont know if the kit with the t63 is going to have these problems but any good feed back would probably not make me want to throw up allover the place right now.thanx guys

squirrel masta

also whats this oiling problem ive been hearing about too

NicD

iTrader: (7)

Thank you for the enlightening response.

Warbird

Before I can really answer the question, give some backgroud.

What did you order?
What is done to your motor?
Who is installing the kit?

I can probably give you and excellent guideline of what to expect, good and bad and how much more this may cost you.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

Dont hurt him Warbird..

verbs

Plans were to order the T-76, which I'm now told is a T-74...

Heads/cam are on the car right now, mods in the sig. The 5.3L heads would be swapped for 6.0L heads to drop compression.

The kit would be installed by one of the local performance shops in Phoenix. No big name shops around here.

Warbird

T74 Huh! That is a huge sore spot with me I was also supposed to get a T76, I guess that's the new standard.

For starters you can at least get some money back for the parts you will be taking off, you can sell your grots, cam, true dual setup, MTI lid, pulleys and 5.3 heads etc. that can probably get you say 3+ grand back if you haven't already done it to buy the kit.

That cam has got to go, start with a single plane cam with at least a 114 lob separation, I have a 228/229 573/573 114 on my big motor and it works well. For a stock displacement you can try something similar or a little smaller, say a 224 or 226. You need good exhaust duration to evacuate the cylinders and build pressure to move the turbo. I also would suggest that you lose the 4.11's for 3.73's or even 3.42's as the turbo is pretty aggressive when it comes on and those are pretty steep gears for forced induction. Your new exhaust will be a true single 3" only your catback will fit.

If your local shop is any good they will be able to install and get through it. The kit as it is pretty obvious on how it fits. DO NOT rely on QMP's pictorial information on their site as key parts are missing for the install. Be prepared to do some customization, every car is different and QMP fit this kit based on one car.

Here are you potential problems, I'm going off the top of my head so I may miss some things

Oiling - The kit was designed as a gravity feed system for the oil system. Problem is, that to get a gravity feed to work properly the turbo must sit above the oil pan and have at least a 45 deg down slope to scavenge oil out of the turbo and return it to the oil pan. This kit is almost level with the oil pan with almost no slope to feed oil back. What tends to happen is the turbo draws oil into the system but it can't evacuate it fast enough, when the turbo spools down the exhaust gas back pressure literally sucks oil right through the seals and deposit it in the exhaust causing smoking. This problem is most evident on decel. The bigger the turbo/boost the bigger the problem. This will dramatically shorten the life of the turbo if left alone

The fix for this is to install a scavenge pump on the return oil line from the turbo that draws oil out and deposits it back into the system. The pumps range in price from $150-300 and install would probably require 2 hours reasonably a $500 fix. Scavenge pump are notoriously unreliable so don't mount it permanently and buy stock in Weldon or Tilton.

You should also consider a one way PCV valve, with the turbo your crankcase will be pressurized

Cooling - You live in Arizona so I would pay close attention to your engine temps. The intercooler sits in front of the radiator and blocks off air-flow to about 60% of it. If you have AC it makes the problem worse as you will end up with a tight sandwich of Intercooler/AC Rad/Rad. There are three problems here 1\ the turbo exhaust generates more internal gas heat and stresses the motor more so the car will naturally run hotter 2\ Add to that problem the fact that the turbo itself generates very high heat, sits directly behind the rad on the lower left side and you begin to build up huge underhood temps 3\ The turbo is lubricated by your crankcase oil and the extreme temps generated, heat up the oil in your crankcase. What you end up with is a triple whammy of exhaust, internal heat and turbo heat.

There are a couple of fixes for this, the first and easiest is the philosophy of get air in and get it out fast, moving air will cool the motor, turbo and underhood temps. You have a Camaro that helps a bit. First you can remove the front fake louvers and make them functional by punching them out and cutting holes in the foam behind the bumper this will get more air in for you. You can also remove the rubber molding at the trailing edge of the hood, this will give you about a half inch gap to get air to flow out of the engine bay. The molding is easy to remove and easy to re-install. I keep mine in the back seat and put it back on if there is any rain. If this doesn't work you need the money fixes such a bigger rad, I bough the SLP 3 core and it seems to work quite well, it was easy to install and it is stock size. You will not find any better fans than the stock ones so don't swap them out, you can program the both come on at the same time. A new rad start to finish can pretty much be done for about $450-900 unless you go more exotic. I stuck with dexcool because we have winter up here, I tried a new product called Tow Cool which is a lubrication/cooling additive for Dexcool and it seems to work.

Tuning - Nothing and I nothing will kill your engine faster than a bad tune. I personally believe mail order tuning from Ed Wrong or any tuner is a bad idea. Ed locks his programs which also eliminates you ability to fine tune the car so you will spend endless money and time playing the mail order game. Every car is different and no two programs just work without fine tuning. You will need to find a dyno with a wide band and LS1 Edit if you want to get it dialed in properly. I would take this even more seriously as your bottom end and pistons are stock, you go lean and your motor will be dead very fast. Forced air cars need furl and you should be looking for an A/F ratio somewhere in the 11.7-12.0 range. With proper tuning you will also be able to dial in your desired boost, don't get greedy or you can kill it. Dyno time and tuning can easily run $1000+

Those are the big issues that you will probably see there are few more that I think are important but you may choose not to try.

I would strongly recommend you invest in a boost and fuel pressure gauge. The boost gauge is excellent to determine if you are having exhaust and flow issues and the fuel gauge monitors fuel pressure to the rail, these cars can't handle pressure losses. The cost of a good set will run you about $500 installed

When you install the kit be careful of the location of the manifold and make sure it is not hitting your steering knuckle, if it is you will have to clearance it. The stock knuckle is held together with plastic pins and heat could cause a problem. I replaced my knuckle with a stainless steel aftermarket piece. When you put in the new plug wires make sure they are not touching the manifold, I got longer wires and pulled them up and ties them off after burning through three sets.

I hope this helps and as I go back and look at everything I did I'll add to the list but I figure I covered about 60% so far

supersp0rt

i just want to add...i dont THINK anyone will have an oiling problem unless they have a ported oil pump. so far i havent heard of anyone having an oiling problem with the stock pump...myself included. you will have to do the pcv mod one way or the other...i was getting blow-by and burning some oil on hard decel and right hand corners (dont ask...i have no idea how) anyway...once i disabled the pcv system, mainly the tube from the tb to the pass. valvecover...i cured the problem. car doesnt burn a drop of oil now. like i said...i havent heard of anyone having this problem with the stocker...if i am wrong someone correct me.

BIGBOS

F.I. is a troublsome thing to get invovled with, I was expecting so much with my D-1SC ATI kit, but I'm just having more and more problems trying to prevent the belts from shredding....

squirrel masta

well what do i do about programing ,im doing the install myself so what would you guys recomend i do,i know slowhawk has ls1 edit ,but can he do all i need to transform my car from stock to turbocharged

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

the tune really isnt any different.. the computer just measures the amount of air comming in through the maf.. only whe you exceed the maf number that the computer can read do you run into tuning trials. other than that just pull some timing out of the high load cells and add about 10% to your power enrichment table..

its not that easy but thats about all it is when you get down to it... just have to tailor it to what your car asks for specifically.

squirrel masta

ya but how can i get the max timing #s and what should i do about a/f and 02 volts im not the best with this electronic stuff so any imput would be great.also i am using stock internals
thanx guys

ChrisB

Honestly you may want to get someone near you who has experience with FI LS1's (turbo's especially) to help you out - a FI motor is not the best place to gain experience tuning - as in if you make a mistake you don't just run bad or get a bit of KR, you blow up.

I just did the same thing harlan did - I picked up a mustang maf and a voltage -> freq converter. For 75 bucks extra Pro-M will give you a 37 point transfer function. Then you just need a little trickery with the pcm and you can effectively meter all your air (with a turbo esp. this would be helpfull, since boost isn't related directly to RPM in most cases)

How far away are you from East Side Dyno? Most of the sponsors here should be able to handle something like that, I would pick someone who is near you. This doesn't mean you can't tweak/tune it yourself, but it would definitely be worthwile to get it tuned/setup correctly, so at a minimum you have an excellent baseline (and a lot less worries)

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

chris, if you happen to put any of that info online i think it could bridge the gap that we need to go ahead and get over. just need a smart guy like yourself to detail it out online for us not so smart guys.

Warbird

Ditto

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

qmp stands for quarter mile preformance right?(formerly ls1motorsports), I heard nothing but bad things from them, maybee I just have the luck but everybody I tried to get technical info out of didnt know there //beep from a hole in the ground, turbo technology is the place to go, all qmp is doing is trying to copy turbo tech's kit they put on there car somethin like 2 years ago! guess there still in the learning process, ya need to do some research before spending big money, maybee all my research isnt 100% but //beep man I wouldnt buy the half //beep version for more money!

Black LS1 T/A

Please keep this post useful and don't let it go downhill. Objective, factual statements are fine.
Please... no generalizations and cut the profanity.

Thanks!

02BlueFirehawk

I thought the QMP kit was a copy of the TTech kit but with improvements over the TTech kit. I'll find out either way. When I was looking back in the beginning of the year all I heard was how crappy TTech's kit was. Go figure. If you haven't installed and tested both kits you really don't know. It's hard enough for people looking on here to forumlate a decision with all the this sucks/that sucks banter. In the end, I went by dyno results. I'll see if it works for me or not. If not, you'll hear about it.

Thanks
Rob