LS1 Motorsports / QMP Turbo Z28 Update: Stock Cubes, 700RWHP
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It's been a while since we did anything with our Project car. The guys at the shop worked real hard this week to get it together, and I'm happy to post the Dyno results from this evening. (With the family health issues, I didn't have much time to spend tuning it yet)
The Engine specifics:
Stock cube, aluminum block. QMP Built with Lunati Crank, Eagle Rods, Diamond Forged 9:1 pistons, ported factory '98 LS1 Heads, 2.02/1.60 valves, Cometic MLS gaskets, ARP head studs (Stock Diameter), LS6 intake, Stock throttle body, Lunati custom grind cam (228/234 569lift, 114).
Fueling:
FAST System with 95lb injectors, and a Cartek crank sensor converter box contolling fuel. LS1 Edit controlling timing through a stock GM MAF (I did not take any time to play with timing at all tonight, only concerned with AF at the moment). Barry Grant King Sumo external fuel pump.
Turbo Kit:
Standard QMP Turbo kit with the T-74 upgrade, standard stock '01-02 ported passenger manifold, standard 2 1/4" crossover pipe, standard unported QMP log turbo manifold, standard HKS wastegate, standard QMP 3" downpipe, and a custom Spearco/QMP "Big Cheese" Front Mount Intercooler.
Our best ever dyno (prior to this new engine), was with the ARE 375ci, big stud, iron block, O-Ringed engine. It dynoed 707rwhp and 728rwtq at 16lbs of boost.
With the standard 5.5lb HKS spring, I could only manage a peak 14.7lbs of boost tonight. Again, this was on the first tune, and with only 15 miles on the fresh engine.
We made: 701rwhp/715rwtq. (I will post dyno sheets when I can get back up to the shop...probably next Monday).
Air fuel still needs some tweaking, it was little fat down low (as rich as 9.56:1), but never leaner than 11.3:1. The average AF was 10.8:1. Just trying to be safe right now.
I drove the car home from the dyno, in 90 degree weather, went WOT several times, and never saw more than 195 degrees. The highest recorded intake air temp at the top of 3rd gear on the street was only 124 degrees! And within less than TWO SECONDS, it was back at ambient of 90 degrees!How's that for an efficient intercooler??
That's it for now.
The Engine specifics:
Stock cube, aluminum block. QMP Built with Lunati Crank, Eagle Rods, Diamond Forged 9:1 pistons, ported factory '98 LS1 Heads, 2.02/1.60 valves, Cometic MLS gaskets, ARP head studs (Stock Diameter), LS6 intake, Stock throttle body, Lunati custom grind cam (228/234 569lift, 114).
Fueling:
FAST System with 95lb injectors, and a Cartek crank sensor converter box contolling fuel. LS1 Edit controlling timing through a stock GM MAF (I did not take any time to play with timing at all tonight, only concerned with AF at the moment). Barry Grant King Sumo external fuel pump.
Turbo Kit:
Standard QMP Turbo kit with the T-74 upgrade, standard stock '01-02 ported passenger manifold, standard 2 1/4" crossover pipe, standard unported QMP log turbo manifold, standard HKS wastegate, standard QMP 3" downpipe, and a custom Spearco/QMP "Big Cheese" Front Mount Intercooler.
Our best ever dyno (prior to this new engine), was with the ARE 375ci, big stud, iron block, O-Ringed engine. It dynoed 707rwhp and 728rwtq at 16lbs of boost.
With the standard 5.5lb HKS spring, I could only manage a peak 14.7lbs of boost tonight. Again, this was on the first tune, and with only 15 miles on the fresh engine.
We made: 701rwhp/715rwtq. (I will post dyno sheets when I can get back up to the shop...probably next Monday).
Air fuel still needs some tweaking, it was little fat down low (as rich as 9.56:1), but never leaner than 11.3:1. The average AF was 10.8:1. Just trying to be safe right now.
I drove the car home from the dyno, in 90 degree weather, went WOT several times, and never saw more than 195 degrees. The highest recorded intake air temp at the top of 3rd gear on the street was only 124 degrees! And within less than TWO SECONDS, it was back at ambient of 90 degrees!How's that for an efficient intercooler??
That's it for now.
#3
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Holy S#!T..... You drove it home too....did you have the chance to "eat" any body on you trip home??? or scare the crap out of some old lady???
I would jsut try to race you just to see how badass that thing really is...I already know I couldnt win unless you broke something.....but DAaayyyuuuM If I had a chance to drive it aroud the block once I think I would have a chubby for a week afterwards.
I would jsut try to race you just to see how badass that thing really is...I already know I couldnt win unless you broke something.....but DAaayyyuuuM If I had a chance to drive it aroud the block once I think I would have a chubby for a week afterwards.
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Wow, those are some impressive #'s...
What would be the wait on one of those kits if you ordering in a few weeks.....
What would be the wait on one of those kits if you ordering in a few weeks.....
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#8
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nice, glad to hear your getting it together. its amazing your now doing the same amount of HP you were doing with the Iron block, do you anticepate the heads warping like they did before, or did you beef up the heads?
i was wondering how you were getting past the 62lb/min MAF limitation, then i realized you got the fast system (duh).
and what octane you running.
i was wondering how you were getting past the 62lb/min MAF limitation, then i realized you got the fast system (duh).
and what octane you running.
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Holy crap man with power like that it must be like driving on ice!! ![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
Nice numbers!![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
Also that is awesome with the IAT temps!! My ATI intercooled Z-28 typically went about 40 degrees above ambient during an entire 1/4 mile run! I had the original setup from ATI modified with a proper scoop to the intercooler (underneath the car for LT1's) and COMPLETELY sealed to the cooler so that all air was forced through the cooler. Dropped my IAT's almost 60 degrees after that one change!
Chris
ps- What did the heads flow? Also how much does that total FAST system cost?
Cheers,
Chris
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Nice numbers!
![Cheers!!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cheers.gif)
Also that is awesome with the IAT temps!! My ATI intercooled Z-28 typically went about 40 degrees above ambient during an entire 1/4 mile run! I had the original setup from ATI modified with a proper scoop to the intercooler (underneath the car for LT1's) and COMPLETELY sealed to the cooler so that all air was forced through the cooler. Dropped my IAT's almost 60 degrees after that one change!
Chris
ps- What did the heads flow? Also how much does that total FAST system cost?
Cheers,
Chris
#10
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Chris, tell me more about your intercooler scoops... materials and such. Do you have some pics of it? I'd like to try something like that, if the holes in the front facia (above the intercoolers) and the air rushing underneath the intercoolers are not efficient.
Thanks, man!
Thanks, man!
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Rob, do you think a stock short block would live very long on the kit with the 74 turbo? Just wondering. Assuming of course that it has a well dialed in tune with zero knock.
-Geoff
-Geoff
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Wow. I thought a reverse split cam was better for a turbocharged car, was I wrong about that? And where did the power come from? Better intercooler? The F.A.S.T. unit?
Less cubic inches, less boost, and that little 2 1/4" crossover pipe and you made damn near the same power.......crazy!
Less cubic inches, less boost, and that little 2 1/4" crossover pipe and you made damn near the same power.......crazy!
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Awesome numbers Rob!
Pretty soon we will get to see what Rob's 'old' 404 motor will do on 17 psi of boost from an Incon kit with a Motec system in charge!
Pretty soon we will get to see what Rob's 'old' 404 motor will do on 17 psi of boost from an Incon kit with a Motec system in charge!
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I dont have any pics sorry but you can use all kinds of material to make the scoop for each cooler. Various sheet plastic/sheet metal etc.
Also I used black duct tape around the "Seams" where the scoop is flush to the bottom of the cooler to FULLY seal it. Even a small airleak will reduce effectiveness when trying to channel air through the cooler.
Hope this helps!
Chris
Also I used black duct tape around the "Seams" where the scoop is flush to the bottom of the cooler to FULLY seal it. Even a small airleak will reduce effectiveness when trying to channel air through the cooler.
Hope this helps!
Chris
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Great numbers!
I thought the reverse SP cam was better as well. Maybe not...
Whats your opinion on the reverse SP cams Rob?
I thought the reverse SP cam was better as well. Maybe not...
Whats your opinion on the reverse SP cams Rob?
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Rob, are you going to address all those cracked primaries on the system MightyMouse is selling? Would something he did cause those to fail, or was it in the welding. I am not trying to start anything, just trying to find out why they are cracked.
-Geoff
-Geoff