Walbro 450 fbody installation?
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Fort Bragg, NC
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Bump for new info.
I bought a 450 e85 to run with my camaro bucket. Install seems easy. Will be running new steel lines from tank to front. Probably 3/8" so factory f-body size.
Braided from firewall to rails & regulator. Aeromotive FPR.. Or the VS racing one, same thing lol
I bought a 450 e85 to run with my camaro bucket. Install seems easy. Will be running new steel lines from tank to front. Probably 3/8" so factory f-body size.
Braided from firewall to rails & regulator. Aeromotive FPR.. Or the VS racing one, same thing lol
#24
#26
Currently running stock 2000 Fbody tank, hardlines, fuel rails, walbro 255 (No hotwire)
Will be running turbo(600rwhp goal) so I thought a Walbro 450, 80 lbs injectors on the stock Fbody fuel system would do the job.
Any advice? Recommendations?
Last edited by CyberGrey Z28; 10-26-2016 at 04:44 PM. Reason: ...
#27
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Play with these...
http://www.deatschwerks.com/resources/fuel-calculators/
Highly doubt it will survive long using stock fbody fuel system. With turbo involved the last thing you want is fuel starvation.
Good way to save money with turbo fueling is running dual pumps in-tank, use a Hobbs switch or comparable trick to turn second pump on when boost kicks in.
#28
I'm thinking I will keep the 255 and add the 450 on a hobb switch(3 psi). That seems like the budget friendly thing to do at this time.
I know the stock fuel line will be okay for 600 rwhp.
Not sure about the intank regulator.
Not much info regarding the 450 pump on stock fbody fuel set up. I know the 450 has worked in stock truck fuel systems at 700rwhp.
I know the stock fuel line will be okay for 600 rwhp.
Not sure about the intank regulator.
Not much info regarding the 450 pump on stock fbody fuel set up. I know the 450 has worked in stock truck fuel systems at 700rwhp.
#30
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-limits-2.html
I'll do some R&D with my 255/450 combo.
#32
On The Tree
iTrader: (4)
Here is what I did. I also have the hotwire kit and a boost-a-pump. We'll get to the boost-a-pump thing later.
I upgraded the wiring in the tank as well as the connector on the top per Racetronix recommendations. You can do it if you want, not sure its needed, but I didn't want to take a chance since I plan to upgrade to dual pumps later.
Stock bucket
Attachment 635929
Start cutting out the bottom
Attachment 635930
Attachment 635931
Fit the new pump in, but need to remove the stock syphon tube since that won't work anymore
Attachment 635932
Add filter sock
Attachment 635933
Attachment 635934
Make sure you get it wired up properly with the new connectors
Attachment 635935
Do NOT use these tubes that Racetronix says fit - THEY DO NOT FIT
Attachment 635936
Do yourself a favor and go buy some of this
Attachment 635937
All finished
Attachment 635938
Now on to the boost-a-pump if you are going to run one. So the boost-a-pump runs on a 40amp fuse. Yes the hotwire kit has a plug and play connection for the boost-a-pump. But why the **** would you make and sell a hotwire kit with only a 20amp fuse in it specifically made to run a boost-a-pump in. Not knowing it was only a 20amp fuse, this is what happened the first time it reached boost about 5 miles from my house.
Attachment 635939
Lesson learned I guess
I upgraded the wiring in the tank as well as the connector on the top per Racetronix recommendations. You can do it if you want, not sure its needed, but I didn't want to take a chance since I plan to upgrade to dual pumps later.
Stock bucket
Attachment 635929
Start cutting out the bottom
Attachment 635930
Attachment 635931
Fit the new pump in, but need to remove the stock syphon tube since that won't work anymore
Attachment 635932
Add filter sock
Attachment 635933
Attachment 635934
Make sure you get it wired up properly with the new connectors
Attachment 635935
Do NOT use these tubes that Racetronix says fit - THEY DO NOT FIT
Attachment 635936
Do yourself a favor and go buy some of this
Attachment 635937
All finished
Attachment 635938
Now on to the boost-a-pump if you are going to run one. So the boost-a-pump runs on a 40amp fuse. Yes the hotwire kit has a plug and play connection for the boost-a-pump. But why the **** would you make and sell a hotwire kit with only a 20amp fuse in it specifically made to run a boost-a-pump in. Not knowing it was only a 20amp fuse, this is what happened the first time it reached boost about 5 miles from my house.
Attachment 635939
Lesson learned I guess
Hey, how did you keep your pump secured onto the base of the bucket? I wanna copy your install but I don’t want my pump flopping around in there or anything.
#36
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Bumping this back up. I’ve been having tuning woes lately. My fuel pressure gauge won’t fit on my setup, because I turned my rails around, to come into the right (passenger) side of the car with my line. I bought a setup to mount on my rail permantely, and it turns out that I’m at 75ish pounds of pressure. I do not want to try and tune to this pressure.
I guess at this point I put another regulator at the fuel rail? Already have the GM corvette regulator back at the rear of the car inline, which worked well with my 255 pump. I’m now running a TI450 pump (Walbro), and pressure is 15 pounds higher.
Answered my own question I guess, and ordered a regulator...
I guess at this point I put another regulator at the fuel rail? Already have the GM corvette regulator back at the rear of the car inline, which worked well with my 255 pump. I’m now running a TI450 pump (Walbro), and pressure is 15 pounds higher.
Answered my own question I guess, and ordered a regulator...
Last edited by Che70velle; 01-31-2018 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Ordered an in-line regulator
#38
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
My return line is about two feet long currently. My corvette regulator is mounted on the rear cross member, in front of the tank. I’d rather not run a return line to the front of the car, just not a lot of extra room with this chassis.
Can I successfully mount the regulator in the rear, or does it need to be up front, with return line to the rear, to work correctly. Fuel systems are not my specialty.
#39
TECH Addict
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Place the gauge and regulator as close to the rail as possible to get most accurate and consistent readings where it matters most. Ideally place them after the rails in the return line.
Here is how mine is set up using stock 97-98 vette rails. I use the stock feed line and added a new return line back to the tank from the rails.
Here is how mine is set up using stock 97-98 vette rails. I use the stock feed line and added a new return line back to the tank from the rails.
#40
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Thanks for the pic. My ls7 rail doesn’t have a return. Could I come out of where the Schrader valve is, for a return? It’s a -4.