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You know this from experience? Right now I'm torn as to what to do. The AEM 320lph looks to be enough for what I want too. And its smaller so less butchering
Yes, my personal car. 600whp 92 octane. built 60e, 9", 28" drag radials on the dyno. 600/530 unlocked converter :
I bought a 450 e85 to run with my camaro bucket. Install seems easy. Will be running new steel lines from tank to front. Probably 3/8" so factory f-body size.
Braided from firewall to rails & regulator. Aeromotive FPR.. Or the VS racing one, same thing lol
I'll be running a 450 with a -8 feed line to fast rails then a magnafuel boost reference regulator and utilizing the factory feed line as a return line. Going in a turbo 408 car.
I'll be running a 450 with a -8 feed line to fast rails then a magnafuel boost reference regulator and utilizing the factory feed line as a return line. Going in a turbo 408 car.
Why are you running a -8 feed line when the pump outlet is -6?
Highly doubt it will survive long using stock fbody fuel system. With turbo involved the last thing you want is fuel starvation.
Good way to save money with turbo fueling is running dual pumps in-tank, use a Hobbs switch or comparable trick to turn second pump on when boost kicks in.
I'm at 616 RWHP on stock fuel lines, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator. 60# injectors, Lonnie's dual in tank 255's pumps. Plan on pushing this to the 700 mark in the spring.
Also to add my meth/water injection doesn't supplement any of my fueling.
Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I have twin walbro 255s from Lonnie's on the stock line and stock regulator, no return.
^^760rwhp
Originally Posted by jmm98LS1
A friends car I tuned is going 9 teens at 153mph at 3670lbs on stock lines/reg/filter with twin 255s and 127lb injectors on E85. Math says well over 800rwhp. We're at the limit though, running out of fuel at 20psi boost.
Originally Posted by HolyShiznit
We were running out of duty cycle and fuel pressure was dropping with 80lbs'/twin walbro 255's/stock rails, lines, regulator @ 20psi on a PT88/5.3 through the auto on 110 octane. Upgrading to a Nasty Performance Stage 3 if it ever ships
Here is what I did. I also have the hotwire kit and a boost-a-pump. We'll get to the boost-a-pump thing later.
I upgraded the wiring in the tank as well as the connector on the top per Racetronix recommendations. You can do it if you want, not sure its needed, but I didn't want to take a chance since I plan to upgrade to dual pumps later.
Now on to the boost-a-pump if you are going to run one. So the boost-a-pump runs on a 40amp fuse. Yes the hotwire kit has a plug and play connection for the boost-a-pump. But why the **** would you make and sell a hotwire kit with only a 20amp fuse in it specifically made to run a boost-a-pump in. Not knowing it was only a 20amp fuse, this is what happened the first time it reached boost about 5 miles from my house. Attachment 635939
Lesson learned I guess
Hey, how did you keep your pump secured onto the base of the bucket? I wanna copy your install but I don’t want my pump flopping around in there or anything.
I didn't do anything special. Fits plenty tight and there is no real place for it to go
Did you fit it into the hole that the original pump hung in on the upper part of the bucket and then Just let it sit on the bottom and the hole you cut?
Bumping this back up. I’ve been having tuning woes lately. My fuel pressure gauge won’t fit on my setup, because I turned my rails around, to come into the right (passenger) side of the car with my line. I bought a setup to mount on my rail permantely, and it turns out that I’m at 75ish pounds of pressure. I do not want to try and tune to this pressure.
I guess at this point I put another regulator at the fuel rail? Already have the GM corvette regulator back at the rear of the car inline, which worked well with my 255 pump. I’m now running a TI450 pump (Walbro), and pressure is 15 pounds higher.
Answered my own question I guess, and ordered a regulator...
Last edited by Che70velle; Jan 31, 2018 at 05:21 PM.
Reason: Ordered an in-line regulator
Yeah ditch the regulator at the rear and install one near the rails on the return side.
Gotcha. So, let’s say I mount the new adjustable regulator in the rear of the Chevelle, and add an inline filter. Speculating here...should I turn up the pressure, say to 65, to allow for full throttle losses? -6 line everywhere.
My return line is about two feet long currently. My corvette regulator is mounted on the rear cross member, in front of the tank. I’d rather not run a return line to the front of the car, just not a lot of extra room with this chassis.
Can I successfully mount the regulator in the rear, or does it need to be up front, with return line to the rear, to work correctly. Fuel systems are not my specialty.
Place the gauge and regulator as close to the rail as possible to get most accurate and consistent readings where it matters most. Ideally place them after the rails in the return line.
Here is how mine is set up using stock 97-98 vette rails. I use the stock feed line and added a new return line back to the tank from the rails.
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