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Fuel pump or pressure regulator w/video Please help 99 trans am bolt on car stock pump pings @ 4500 & noses over 2-3 degrees of KR quick video of WOT fuel pressure test loses close to 30psi |
List of Mods to the car would help, even at idle it not where it's supposed to be mine shows 60 psi.Any recent work done? |
log voltage at the pump. i bet you're floating the alt brushes. |
Originally Posted by qweedqwag
(Post 19983154)
List of Mods to the car would help, even at idle it not where it's supposed to be mine shows 60 psi.Any recent work done? no recent work |
Originally Posted by truckdoug
(Post 19983283)
log voltage at the pump. i bet you're floating the alt brushes. where do I get an upgraded brush set & is it a diy deal if I'm mechanically inclined? |
Car has 154k miles on it & pump looks like it may be original. FPR had some junk behind the screen also. Would ordering a Racetronix pump & new FPR be a waste you think? |
Did some Alt brush float reading. Not suggesting voltage isn't the problem, but as you see in video, pressure drop is in full effect as early as 4k rpm. doesn't brush float happen at a higher rpm considering all my drive pulleys are of factory size? |
Since you don't know if the fuel pump and/or fuel filter has ever been changed I would assume both haven't been changed - perhaps since new. I would replace the fuel filter first. If you still have the issue then I would replace the pump with a Racetronix fuel pump kit. It's plug and play. Only difficult thing is whether to drop the tank or cut an access panel above the tank. There is a filter in the tank too. It might be clogged and causing the restriction. You will find out as soon as you pull the pump. The kit comes with a new filter. There is a connector (bulkhead connector) on the top of the fuel tank with wires that run into the tank to power the pump. That connector can fail too or restrict voltage if it has corroded. Low voltage can cause the pump to degrade performance. The kit comes with a new bulkhead connector. So make sure to replace it as well when doing the install. It's critical that the pump get maximum voltage to the pump else it will brown out, get hot and fail. Lest we forget, the wiring in your car is now 20 years old. There are tons of posts and video explaining in detail how to do the install. The WS6 Store (a sponsor here) can probably get you the best deal and quickest service (ship time). http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/.../98-02-f-body/ |
Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
(Post 19983530)
Since you don't know if the fuel pump and/or fuel filter has ever been changed I would assume both haven't been changed - perhaps since new. I would replace the fuel filter first. If you still have the issue then I would replace the pump with a Racetronix fuel pump kit. It's plug and play. Only difficult thing is whether to drop the tank or cut an access panel above the tank. There is a filter in the tank too. It might be clogged and causing the restriction. You will find out as soon as you pull the pump. The kit comes with a new filter. There is a connector (bulkhead connector) on the top of the fuel tank with wires that run into the tank to power the pump. That connector can fail too or restrict voltage if it has corroded. Low voltage can cause the pump to degrade performance. The kit comes with a new bulkhead connector. So make sure to replace it as well when doing the install. It's critical that the pump get maximum voltage to the pump else it will brown out, get hot and fail. Lest we forget, the wiring in your car is now 20 years old. There are tons of posts and video explaining in detail how to do the install. The WS6 Store (a sponsor here) can probably get you the best deal and quickest service (ship time). http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/.../98-02-f-body/ I've ordered a fuel filter & in tank Delphi fuel pressure regulator as well as the Racetronix pump & hot wire kit from WS6 store. Will be sure to verify voltage at the pump upon installation. Have also gathered materials to do the big 3 electrical upgrade to the power/grounds under the hood. |
Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
(Post 19983530)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...c637247c6b.jpg maintains 58psi through 6k rpm IM QUITE sure the pump had alot to do with it, but I also noted that the diaphragm of the original FPR was bad. I could blow though the reference hole both directions without resistance on the old one. The new FPR I couldnt. which brings me to another question. what does the in tank oem FPR use as a reference pressure/vacuum to alter pressure? I mean it's just an open nipple in the fuel tank.? I've seen that style FPR inside the plenum of a 4.3l Astro van & can understand how manifold pressure changes in the plenum can effect the regulator, but how does it work in the fuel tank, anyone? |
You could feel all the air I was blowing into the nipple escaping from all around that rolled pinch weld halfway down the body of the regulator.https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...c7cf6591f5.jpg |
Atmospheric pressure 14.7 pounds. Fuck, I just made that shit up. |
Originally Posted by qweedqwag
(Post 19983939)
Atmospheric pressure 14.7 pounds. Fuck, I just made that shit up. |
A suggestion. Since the 1998 - 2002 fbody is now nearly 20 years old it perhaps should be a given that when replacing the pump the in tank regulator should be replaced as well. IMO Racetronix might consider offering it as well in their kits, or literature at time of purchase, recommending it as optional giving the buyer a choice to replace or NOT. The C5 external filter/regulator is an option as well, if you know about it. But it requires modification to the stock system by removing the internal FPR and replacing it with an external FPR in the filter assembly. Good to hear you got yours fixed and are back on the road. |
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