need more fuel, convert fbody to AN braided fuel lines?
#1
Staging Lane
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need more fuel, convert fbody to AN braided fuel lines?
Okay...
I've been driving myself crazy for days trying to figure out how this works. So here is the deal. I have the lonnies double pumper setup in my 99 trans am. Car is currently a d1sc procharged 347 and I need more fuel since I'm turning the boost up with a new f1a94 procharger now, I've already converted the stock lines to a return system and need more, I want to go -8an feed and return. I can not for the life of me find what adapters I need to convert ALL the lines to -8an PTFE braided lines both feed and return. If anyone can point me in the direction of the correct adapters to connect to the fuel basket as well as any suggestions on brands of line and compatible -8an fuel filters and whatever else I may need, I would greatly appreciate it. I currently already have holley rails and an aeromotive regulator so those *should* be easy to convert to -8an. I'm looking to do the whole system as braided lines, no hard lines, or is this a bad idea? Am I totally on the wrong track here? Car is already over 700 at the wheels with the d1 so im looking to go about 800ish at the wheels with the f1a94 while i build my 408 in the meantime. So the fuel system will have to be good to 1000ish which is the goal once the 408 is in. Any and all help you can offer would be nice!
Thank you in advance.
I've been driving myself crazy for days trying to figure out how this works. So here is the deal. I have the lonnies double pumper setup in my 99 trans am. Car is currently a d1sc procharged 347 and I need more fuel since I'm turning the boost up with a new f1a94 procharger now, I've already converted the stock lines to a return system and need more, I want to go -8an feed and return. I can not for the life of me find what adapters I need to convert ALL the lines to -8an PTFE braided lines both feed and return. If anyone can point me in the direction of the correct adapters to connect to the fuel basket as well as any suggestions on brands of line and compatible -8an fuel filters and whatever else I may need, I would greatly appreciate it. I currently already have holley rails and an aeromotive regulator so those *should* be easy to convert to -8an. I'm looking to do the whole system as braided lines, no hard lines, or is this a bad idea? Am I totally on the wrong track here? Car is already over 700 at the wheels with the d1 so im looking to go about 800ish at the wheels with the f1a94 while i build my 408 in the meantime. So the fuel system will have to be good to 1000ish which is the goal once the 408 is in. Any and all help you can offer would be nice!
Thank you in advance.
#2
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I wouldnt convert a damn thing. I'd rip every piece of stock hose out of the car and plumb new stuff! 1000hp fuel system has nothing stock left but the gas tank.
#3
TECH Addict
When I build cars,, I use hardline end to end and the braided stuff is saved for the last bit where flex is needed.
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
All braided lines here, dig up all the pictures you can find on how others ran lines along the underbody. If you intend to track it then pay extra attention how the lines run in/out of the engine bay in relation to the bellhousing.
Hooking up the push-lock adapters to fuel top hat without dropping the tank sucks but it can be done. If you delete emissions stuff on top of the tank, be sure to keep a breather filter on one of the lines above full fuel line.
Feeding a 408 with an F1 should require -10 feed with -8 return. Magnafuel inline filter is pretty easy to take apart for cleaning.
I'd recommend feeding fuel rails in parallel like this..
Hooking up the push-lock adapters to fuel top hat without dropping the tank sucks but it can be done. If you delete emissions stuff on top of the tank, be sure to keep a breather filter on one of the lines above full fuel line.
Feeding a 408 with an F1 should require -10 feed with -8 return. Magnafuel inline filter is pretty easy to take apart for cleaning.
I'd recommend feeding fuel rails in parallel like this..
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
When I build cars,, I use hardline end to end and the braided stuff is saved for the last bit where flex is needed.
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
#6
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
When I build cars,, I use hardline end to end and the braided stuff is saved for the last bit where flex is needed.
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
Using braided line for the entire thing is bad advice. It's sloppy, heavy and it won't last.
#7
Staging Lane
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hmmm...
Thank you all for the insight. I was afraid of the answers. I'm totally fine with building new engines, but fueling scares me haha. Would any of you agree that maybe I just stick with the stock lines (with return) that I have already and run the f1a94 on my 347? Then tear the whole car apart for all new fuel lines when the 408 is ready to go in next year? I've seen other threads on ls1tech talk about how stock lines and deka 80s hold 800hp all day? I don't know how much truth there is to this.
Thank you all for the insight. I was afraid of the answers. I'm totally fine with building new engines, but fueling scares me haha. Would any of you agree that maybe I just stick with the stock lines (with return) that I have already and run the f1a94 on my 347? Then tear the whole car apart for all new fuel lines when the 408 is ready to go in next year? I've seen other threads on ls1tech talk about how stock lines and deka 80s hold 800hp all day? I don't know how much truth there is to this.
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#8
When I build cars,, I use hardline end to end and the braided stuff is saved for the last bit where flex is needed.
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
I plumbed my first car back in 2005 with aeroquip stainless braided line and all the fuel lines are 100% leak free still. I switched from working with stainless braided to starlite back in 2010 and those lines are also all fine still.
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
hmmm...
Thank you all for the insight. I was afraid of the answers. I'm totally fine with building new engines, but fueling scares me haha. Would any of you agree that maybe I just stick with the stock lines (with return) that I have already and run the f1a94 on my 347? Then tear the whole car apart for all new fuel lines when the 408 is ready to go in next year? I've seen other threads on ls1tech talk about how stock lines and deka 80s hold 800hp all day? I don't know how much truth there is to this.
Thank you all for the insight. I was afraid of the answers. I'm totally fine with building new engines, but fueling scares me haha. Would any of you agree that maybe I just stick with the stock lines (with return) that I have already and run the f1a94 on my 347? Then tear the whole car apart for all new fuel lines when the 408 is ready to go in next year? I've seen other threads on ls1tech talk about how stock lines and deka 80s hold 800hp all day? I don't know how much truth there is to this.
Here's what I mean. F1A is a 900hp supercharger, whether you push 8 psi through a 408 or 16 psi through a 347 it still takes the same amount of fuel. What does change is fuel pressure rise with boost, so you need a compatible FPR, pump(s) that can keep up, and big enough supply lines with injectors to maintain adequate flow.
Another option is to run a new feed line then use adapters to convert stock feed line as your return. I can't remember what AN equivalent that line is though. Whatever it is, you'll only need to run 1 line from tank to engine bay.
#11
starving for fuel
My '79 Z-28 Camaro was starving for fuel with a 110 HP Nitro-us kit ,,, I replaced the stock high Volume mechanical pump on the engine with a Holley electric pump ..
First I found a kink in the steel line coming out of the gas tank .. This helped a lot .. I have a fuel pressure gauge on the cowl It fell down to like 3 psi .. Turns out the Holley Electric pump has less volume than the stock pump that had a return line to tank along with a charcoal Canister .. turns out I would have been better off to leave it stock .. Now I need to start fresh and install a high pressure system for an LS on E-85.. at least I learned the hard way when I was 19 years old what not to do ..
Plus now days I make my own Hy pressure Hydraulic hoses with Weatherhead system now owned by Eaton .. I do make 1/4" Braided stainless Teflon need to get the dies for 3/8" I guess..
First I found a kink in the steel line coming out of the gas tank .. This helped a lot .. I have a fuel pressure gauge on the cowl It fell down to like 3 psi .. Turns out the Holley Electric pump has less volume than the stock pump that had a return line to tank along with a charcoal Canister .. turns out I would have been better off to leave it stock .. Now I need to start fresh and install a high pressure system for an LS on E-85.. at least I learned the hard way when I was 19 years old what not to do ..
Plus now days I make my own Hy pressure Hydraulic hoses with Weatherhead system now owned by Eaton .. I do make 1/4" Braided stainless Teflon need to get the dies for 3/8" I guess..
#12
Snow Meth
hmmm...
Thank you all for the insight. I was afraid of the answers. I'm totally fine with building new engines, but fueling scares me haha. Would any of you agree that maybe I just stick with the stock lines (with return) that I have already and run the f1a94 on my 347? Then tear the whole car apart for all new fuel lines when the 408 is ready to go in next year? I've seen other threads on ls1tech talk about how stock lines and deka 80s hold 800hp all day? I don't know how much truth there is to this.
Thank you all for the insight. I was afraid of the answers. I'm totally fine with building new engines, but fueling scares me haha. Would any of you agree that maybe I just stick with the stock lines (with return) that I have already and run the f1a94 on my 347? Then tear the whole car apart for all new fuel lines when the 408 is ready to go in next year? I've seen other threads on ls1tech talk about how stock lines and deka 80s hold 800hp all day? I don't know how much truth there is to this.
#13
Staging Lane
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#15
Holley fuel pump in OEM Tank
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-304
Holley sells a new Fuel tank for $121.00 It replaces your stoke lines and gas level sender says it's a 21 gallon tank ..
Also it has a sock that works as a 30 micron filter and also can supposedly suck the last drops out of your fuel tank ..
Holley sells a new Fuel tank for $121.00 It replaces your stoke lines and gas level sender says it's a 21 gallon tank ..
Also it has a sock that works as a 30 micron filter and also can supposedly suck the last drops out of your fuel tank ..
#16
Staging Lane
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https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-304
Holley sells a new Fuel tank for $121.00 It replaces your stoke lines and gas level sender says it's a 21 gallon tank ..
Also it has a sock that works as a 30 micron filter and also can supposedly suck the last drops out of your fuel tank ..
Holley sells a new Fuel tank for $121.00 It replaces your stoke lines and gas level sender says it's a 21 gallon tank ..
Also it has a sock that works as a 30 micron filter and also can supposedly suck the last drops out of your fuel tank ..
That is only for 70-83 F body.
#17
Holly sells Gas Tanks for about any Muscle Car
Here is a Holley Hydramat in an off road race truck
Here is a Video Demonstration of a high volume Hydramat
Flex Fuel Conversion Kit
https://weaponxmotorsports.com/colle...=4184132452379
I am working on a 79 Camaro and I sent a link to one page.. They sell a fuel tanks for about any Muscle car you can imagine .. I am working on "Putting an LS motor and T-56 Trans in a Second Generation F Body as per my 1979 Z-28 Camaro .. So I posted a link to the page I had been looking at and posted on a thread I made about 2nd Generation F bodies.. The 30 micron sock on the pick up is a very cool.set up .. They are using a larger version in fuel cells on race Trucks and in NASCAR ...
Also Holley posted a Video testing the fuel pump with a 30 Micron sock in a Fuel Cell in Robby Gordon's Stadium Off Road Race Truck
Here is a Video Demonstration of a high volume Hydramat
Flex Fuel Conversion Kit
https://weaponxmotorsports.com/colle...=4184132452379
I am working on a 79 Camaro and I sent a link to one page.. They sell a fuel tanks for about any Muscle car you can imagine .. I am working on "Putting an LS motor and T-56 Trans in a Second Generation F Body as per my 1979 Z-28 Camaro .. So I posted a link to the page I had been looking at and posted on a thread I made about 2nd Generation F bodies.. The 30 micron sock on the pick up is a very cool.set up .. They are using a larger version in fuel cells on race Trucks and in NASCAR ...
Also Holley posted a Video testing the fuel pump with a 30 Micron sock in a Fuel Cell in Robby Gordon's Stadium Off Road Race Truck
Last edited by MarkZ281979; 02-15-2019 at 08:37 PM.
#18
9 Second Club
When I build cars,, I use hardline end to end and the braided stuff is saved for the last bit where flex is needed.
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
Braided line has about a 2 to 3 year life expectancy on average, and at the 2 to 5 dollar a foot cost I
don't really want to by 30 feet every couple years. Exotic Race gas can be very very hard on PTFE or other
plastics and rubber as well.
The hard line is about 1/3 the cost and you can get it in stainless or Aluminum. I use AL pillow
blocks about every 16" to carry the line down the side of the frame or to the body just inboard of the unibody
frame keeping it out of the passenger compartment for tech legality in most racing venues.
Oh and 7/8 hardline weighs about half what the equivalent Braided line does.. Hey its a lb or two right ??
I've worked around racing for about 30 years, seen way too many fires caused by bad
hose/fittings/incorrect hose choices etc..
PTFE lines should easily outlast the car.
Spurious rubber hoses....impossible to say. OEM quality should easily last 20+ years. Cheap crap could be 2-3 years, and I've seen some "braided" rubber based hoses leak throughout in very short time periods. Which is utterly ridiculous really.
I would never ever use a rubber based hose where the actual rubber is not visible.
Far too many people see shiny stainless braided hose and think that's a wonderful thing...without a clue it's ***** rubber inside. IMO Never use that type of hose.
Braided only refers to outer covering, nothing more.
And after having some alloy Russell hardline go bad, I would also never choose to use Alu based hardline either.
PTFE all the way.