Chrisomatic25

Hello all,

I currently have a 1970 Nova roller that I知 going to swap in a Gen III 5.3 and Fbody T56. My end goal is twin turbo, 800-1000hp

For now I壇 like to get the car up and running on a N/A setup to work out all the suspension, clutch, and brakes before going twin turbo. I知 still going to be installing many parts such as internal engine parts, 1200hp clutch, caltracs, etc. As far as fueling. Am I safe to still plumb and run a boost referenced FPR and just set the base fuel pressure at 58psi even though it値l be N/A? Would there be any problems with this? I壇 rather not plumb a corvette regulator at the rear of the tank then totally re-do it when going twin turbo shortly after.

One last question, should I install the 80lb injectors now or would that cause issues with tune since the N/A setup with basically be 400hp? I知 fine with buying GM 28lb ones from market place but if I can buy and install the 80lb injectors now, I will.

Thank you!
Chris

rel3rd

iTrader: (43)

You can absolutely run the "boosted stuff", without being, well...boosted, lol.

I ran my old 60# injectors, and was only making 353rwhp.
Had basically the same configuration as I have now, except now making double that.
Feed line to rails, to injectors, return side of rails to regulator, return line from regulator back to tank.
Vacuum line to regulator
No issues whatsoever.

Obviously, 80#ers are too big for what you have now, but if you already have them, use them.
You can help them work by simply lowering fuel pressure.
The vacuum to regulator, will lower it as well.

FWIW, Now turbo'd, I run 210# injectors (E-85 car), which can support more power than I'll EVER make.
To easily run them, I use 43psi as my base fuel pressure.
You may be able to simply do that on your setup, to run the 80's.
If you're using Holley EFI, there's an option for both a 43 and 58psi base fuel pressure.

Chrisomatic25

Thank you! Ill attempt to run the FPR and 80lb's. Luckily I can manipulate the base fuel pressure with the boost referenced FPR. Ill reply back to this thread if I have any troubles with this setup on N/A.
-Chris

dlandsvZ28

Pretty sure that you set pressure at 58 with the vacuum port on the FPR left open to atmosphere with the engine running and idling. Then reconnect the vacuum line and start the engine leaving the engine idling. Your FPR pressure should drop accordingly determined by engine vacuum inside the intake where vacuum will control the FPR fuel pressure. If your engine produces about 10-15 hg of vacuum while idling the gauge should drop by that amount accordingly. As engine rpm increases from idle to WOT vacuum decreases and the FPR will react accordingly to allow more fuel pressure and volume to NA WOT.

When using a vacuum/boost referenced FPR you flat line the IFR table. When stock the IFR table is sloped to account for estimated kPA with the stock fuel regulator producing a static 58 PSI of fuel pressure.

Good link here. It explains what happens as the engine transitions from NA to boost and the importance of an FPR for boost in order to allow more fuel and pressure for FI.

https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...g-vacuum-boost

I used Deka 60's on my Procharged D1 SC TSP LQ9 370 with no issues with duty cycle up to 600 rwhp. That said I was also running a very large fuel filter, larger rails, -8an feed, -6an return, and the Racetronix dual 510 lph pump kit and with dual harness's. I recently upgraded to Deka Signature Series 80's due to smaller pulley change. Easy to tune and idles nearly like my C7 Z06. Next pulley change will be a 3.7 pulley which should increase boost another 2 psi and still keep the 80's.

Dyno is an Eddy Current DynoJet

Chrisomatic25

Very good info, thanks!

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Hope you are still around in another 10 years. That is all.