Who has done it? Can I just cap the hard line in the engine bay? I have heard that I will have venting problems with the fuel tank...

 

I did it on my 3rd gen. Do you plan on keeping the canister?

 

I want to keep everything that is mounted on the tank, bt nothing in the engine bay...

 

Then take it all off, you'll need to have the ses codes programmed out. On the tank, leave the evap line from the sender and route it to the back of the car away from heat and moving bits. The tank will still vent from this line, but the vapors will go straight to the atmosphere, don't forget they are flammable.

Any reason why you want to get rid of the Evap system?

 

Can you remove evap with no ill effects? Besides clearing the codes, what else needs to be done as far as the tank...


Blake

 

Makes your garage smell

 

Jammer is right, I removed my EVAP from my 1996 Z and the garage does smell. It is worht it though to not have all that crap on the intake. I had my intake ceramic coated and I just didn't want to put that crap back on.

 

plug all the open "ports" on the fuel tank and it won't smell anymore.........I have not had an EVAP for going on 3 years now

 

What about issues filling up the tank? I heard you cant fill it more than 5 gallons at a time from the built up pressure...

 

I initially had that problem but worked a way around it. The problem is the fill pipe into the tank is not large enough for both fuel to come in and air to move back out at the same time (when pushing large amounts of fuel in). You can fill up the tank on the slowest setting of the pump (but then it takes some 10mins to fill up ). Somehow you need a line to get the air up and out the fill point.

answer:

I ran two hoses (the more/large lines you have, the faster you can fill) from the "EVAP ports" on the top of the tank, up to just below the cap in the fill neck (the large part where the gas cap goes on). I drilled and taped 1/8" pipe fittings into the neck at this point and installed two barbs so my hoses could clamp on. This lets the "air" come off the top of the tank, bypass the fuel that is coming down the fill neck, and escape out into the atmosphere. When you put the cap back on, it closes the system up (because the two lines are still below the cap) so you have a sealed tank that you can still fill quickly. When filling, try to keep the little "rubber cover/boot" off the neck so the pressure can bleed off.




Someone is bound to ask "why go through all this trouble? For me, getting rid of the EVAP was needed because I wanted to do a full return line fuel system and didn't want to run new lines. By removing the EVAP, I was able to use the "EVAP line" (the hard line) as my return line from the fuel rail and thus switch over to the 97/98 Vette fuel rain that has a regulator on the rail (installed an adjustable and vacuum referenced unit in mine). As other have said, getting rid of the EVAP line onto the intake manifold also looks a lot better.

 

Do you happen to know which tubes on the top of the fuel pump assembly are for the evap? A picture would be great

 

no pics but its REALLY straight forward........when you take the tank off just follow the lines to the EVAP canister (bolted onto the fuel tank).......


it's literally one of those "if you can't do this you don't need to work on cars" kind of things.....ranks up there with oil and plug changes if you ask me .......the hardest part by far is dropping the tank.....