redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

Ok guys this has probably been posted and answered a million times but here goes. I just ordered a new fuel pump for my nitrous kit i am going to install.. its aTNT f1 kit. I have done searches on searches about pulling the tank and then came across the "trap door method". My hats off to the guys who thought of this bc just the thought of possibly having to remove my exhaust and or dropping my rearend brakets etcc.. just didnt really want to go through the hassle. I have read the post and instructions on how to do it but had a question. On the one i saw it said "drilled a small hole to locate the pump." Would anyone have the exact measurment or at least pretty close to where it is as far as left to right front to back as to make the "plate" that will cover the hole up as small as possible. I have a 98 convert and dont know if that will make a difference or not..(conv) Again like this idea just for the fact that knowing if the pump fails or whatever i can easy access it. Cutting the sheetmetal on my car doesnt bother me,it just has carpet over it.
thanks again tnt here i come!!
Matt

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I can go outside and measure and tell you. Not exactly 100% on the convertible, but should be the same as hardtop. I had to go back into my tank and replace the line twice, the one with the pump I got was not up to the task and blew out. So, yeah it saved me mucho time. BRB.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Ok, on the metal tanks, you lift the carpet and from the forward edge of the rear shelf you will start at the edge, and cut back 8 1/2" from front to rear, and you will cut 7 5/8" centered side to side. This should put your side cuts just inside the two stamped grooves running down the rear shelf.

On the plastic tank you start at the rear of the shelf and cut forward 8 1/2" and same side to side.

Either way you should end up with a leading edge just inside from the shelf drop off as it bends down.

Think there are pics in my sigs link.

If ya want some emailed let me know. Can get some out to you tonight, of course just adjusting from the rear of the shelf to the front.

Charlie.

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

thank you very much i sent a reply earlier but i just checked the forum out and it doesnt seem to have been sent..oh well Yes if you dont mind i would love some pics. email is mattg80@***-internet.com what did you use to cut the metal? did you drill a pilot hole and then use some shears or what? Thanks again for your time.
Matt

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

I really can't remember the source for where I read this (I think it was just another members post), but someone mentioned that a convertible relies on structural strength in that area, to some degree.

I have a '98 convertible as well and decided not to cut a trap door.

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

OUH OH I was palnning ot make the cut i have the carpet pulled back and everything..although it does look like it would be hard to get to. I'll wait it out and see if anyone responds to the "structual Issue" Was it hard to pull the tank then? What did you have to remove? Thanks again for the "Warning" although i dont see how that small of an area could affect the strength that much. Just to be on the safe side though ill heed your warning and be on the lookout for a reply.
Thanks
Matt

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Well, when I dropped my tank the first time, I did it while I was putting in the 12 bolt. I had to pull it back out about 15 times after the fact though, due to a defective pump, and then because I didn't realize that the stock regulator has a check valve that the aeromotive one doesn't.

Anyway, to take the tank out you have to remove the exhaust (if it's not dumped before the axle), the panhard rod, the bolt that holds the brake lines to the body of the car, and then disconnect the lower shock mount on the axle tubes. Removing the lower shock mount will let the rear end drop until you stop it, so be careful. You also want to keep an eye on your brake lines to make sure they don't get crimped. There are two bolts that hold the tank straps, and and once those are out (as well as the plastic around the filler neck), you're ready to start working the tank around to try and get the filler neck through its hole. It is a pain on 98's. That's just a very brief (and incomplete I'm sure) run through of what you need to do.

That said, it is MUCH easier to cut the access hole. If two of the rear attachment points for my rollcage weren't within a foot of the area the hole was supposed to be cut, I probably would have considered doing that myself after having to drop it for the 3rd time.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Never heard about the verts having this area for support, although any car does rely onits original design for support, I cannot see that a hole the size of the access door is going to cause that much of a problem.

I cut mine with a dremel, best damn LS1 mod tool award, and reinforced cut off wheels. Took two wheels. No pilot hole. You cannot cut down to deep or you will risk hitting the lines, tank etc... The dremel cutoff wheels are perfect size. I plan on finishing mine, some day, by using a piece of sheetmetal with a piano type hinge on it, so I can easily cover the hole and or access it. Right now I have some cardboard over it and the carpet, works fine.

Will try and email some pics today or tomorrow. But if you look at the link in my sig, you can see the placement for the plastic tank models. Just move the hole towards the front of the car and your good.

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

Thanks man, ill go to lowes on my next day off and get the baddest cutoff wheels i can find for my dremel. i appreciate the response.

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

hey guys for some stupid reason i have not thought about this unitl now. i have noticed that all the info on the trap door method seems to have been on hatchbacks. My vert has the damn coss support beam that goes all the way across above the gas tank cover in the car giving me only about 9 inches above the tank cover. Even if i was to get the hole cut, i dont know if the pump and braket assmely would come out because i cant just pull it straight up like you hatchback guys who have lots of room because your lid lifts up. Maybee if i can take it out at an angle, i dont know, i wish there was someone wtih a convert that has done this to confrim the bracket and pump will come out from the top. just doesnt look like enough room damn it.

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

I ask again on bending knee, has anyone cut the access hole for the fuel pump with the convertible? Will the pump assembly come out the top of the tank with that little of space due to the "cross support" above the gas tank cover inside the car. Damn wish i had a hatchback!

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

I can't tell you with any certainty how much of a problem you will have with it. I CAN tell you that there is a real possibility that you wouldn't be able to get it out though. There is a spring loaded hinge on the assembly arm that sits about 4-5" from the top. This lets you bend it around to help with getting it out, but the lower portion may be too long. Especially if you consider how you will have to angle everything around to get the filter sock out, and the floater arm out without bending it.

Here's a picture of the 98 assembly: www.unrealhp.com/misc/racetronix.jpg

kevinb

When i get home tonight i have a link with an excellent write up on the install with exact measurments. I am in the process of doing mine right now and the cut out was perfect. I will post it up when i get home.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

How about this link:

http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/fuelpump.html

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

yes this link is great but still dont know if the pump will come out. if i had a hatchback it would be soooo much easier!!! On the convertible there is a "cross support" going across the tank cover on the inside of the car. there is only aboout 10 inches of space between the cover and the support. My problem would be pulling the -pump with the assembly out without hitting the cross support. Just look at the convertibles and you will see my dillemma. Also i have decided i will purchase a window switch for my nitrous. i did not want to do this but after reading post after post i have decided it is best. I have an a4 with 3.73 gears. I am new to nitrous game, if i get a switch, would i have to put the car in "drive" out of a dig, wait for the car to shift into second. arm the juice and let switch do the work, then let the car switch to third by itself after the juice cuts off,(5000rpm) and kicking on again while in third? i am sorry if i sound like a jackass i work third shift and get off at 6:00 am. Happy hour is 6:30 to 9:00 and needless to say i am about 15 beers deep and its (9:30) in the morning.. i appreciate everyones resoponse!!!
thanks guys
MAtt

redbandit98

iTrader: (13)

thanks is it a vert?
Matt

speedo

iTrader: (15)

What did he use to cut the hole... Tin Shears or that dremel I seen in one pic? Must not be that thick of metal back there...

n2oblkz

iTrader: (1)

I just finished doing my fuel access door on my 1996 Z and I used some $6.00 hand nibblers. It was very easy and you don't have the orries of using cut-off wheels. I got the idea froma board member here.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to do the trap door installation method (which we do not agree with) please do not use cutoff wheels. If your tank seal is not 100% and there are pockets of vapors sitting around the top opening of your tank the sparks ignite them. Use shears or better yet a nibbling tool.

Please follow the Racetronix installation guide carefully and seriously observe safety precautions laid out in the GM factory manual.