4.10's in an auto
 

The guys that have ran them.... What was the et difference? How was it on the street from a roll and a dig?

Bump. Tried searching couldn't really get what i was looking for.

you didn't search very far,only 12 days ago.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1006702-4-10-question-autos.html

I read that thread. I didnt get a lot out of it.

Street = Seat of the Pants diff, higher rpm, less gas milage comparitivly to 2.73 or 3.23.

Dig = better if you can catch traction

Roll = good also if you can catch a good down shift.

Negative = Run the gear calculator, given that the stall doesnt have too much slip, your going to run out of gear sooner before the 1/4 and your going to shift into O/D sooner or just bounce off the limiter.

In that case a taller tire will be needed, i.e. 26" to a 28"

Im running 315/35/17 nittos and a 3400 fuddle stall.

4.10's with that stall with run awesome at the track!!!
but on a 4l60e at 70mph you will cruise at 4000rpm
but if you do alot of city driving its not a big deal but i wouldnt go that big of a gear if you do alot of freeway
but if you do mostly track and city driving then 4.10's will be the best mod for your e.t. time at the track especially with the higher stall that you've got

4000??? Sure about that?

4000 ha.!
I'm 3075 rpm at a true 70 mph with A4 4.56s'.

Kinda what i was thinking.... thinking someone is full of :turd:

As a matter of fact what made you go with that steep of gear?

Torque,Torque,Torque! Torque accelerates,horsepower maintains.
I'm 'old school' from the 60s' when torque and gears ruled the streets.I've worked on rearends back then so they are not something to avoid working on.Back in the late 60s',you could get factory 4.56s/4.88s in your car order in camaros,novas,and chevelles.They were great 'light to light' streetfighters.So why not build a rearend for optimal 'light to light' streetfighting.I have 3 extra rearends(take-outs from f-bod),many gearsets(from swap meets and Summit 'discount returned items,2.41,2.73.3.23,3.42,3.73,4.10,4.56),various carriers(auburns,torsens,and eatons).
When I decided to take out the OEM 3.23 rearend(passenger side carrier bearing was growling),I figured why not build a rear with the $25 used richmond 4.56 gearset I picked up at a swap meet.That rearend was put in in sept. of 07 and I haven't regretted it since.1st and 2nd(with Nitto 315s on the street)are incredible.I've taken 2 trips to florida from cleveland,ohio with the 4.56s' and the computor has handled the mpg better than originally anticipated.24.5 mpg with the 3.23s,now 21.5 mpg with the 4.56s.No complaint here.Freeway rpm would be considered high,but I don't.It's designed to work in a range.Coming back from florida a few weeks ago,we hooked in with a fast traveling group on I-95/I-26/I-77 in South Carolina that put us in cruise control at 4000 rpm for a couple hours.The engine now has an incredible mechanical advantage over the car and it operates at a condition of not being under a load.

4.10 w/ 315/35 4l60e
 

4.10 w/ 315/35 4l60e.... 2500 range at 70

I think a LOT has to do with the particular combo...

My 2000 SS weighs in at 3755# with me in it.
I run a 226 cam, a 3600 Vigilante stall, and most common bolt-ons.
I was running 342 gears for over a year.
Car is HPTuners tuned to shift @ 6800
Car traps at 5900-6000 (w/342 gears)
Car has NO drag race mods to suspension whatsoever.
Car pulls left front wheel (2-6") every pass. (regardless of rear gear)

Car is very consistent and always has been.

Hoping to beat my best ET/MPH of 11.67@115, I swapped to 410's...

In near identical conditions:

My BEST with 410's was an 11.63@116 with 1.57 60 foot.
Trap rpm was 6500 or so. A little high IMHO, for my 116,000 mile bottom end.

My best with 342's back in is 11.61@116 with 1.57 60 foot.

The gas mileage was not even comparable. The 410's absolutely sucked as far as mileage was concerned, and in MY COMBO...not worth the added wear & tear on the engine, since dragstrip gains were non-existent. It did "feel" quicker on the street, but evidently only felt quicker due to hearing the engine rev quicker and higher.

I'm seriously considering swapping the stock 323's back in for next year since my car seems to like having a load on the drivetrain, as opposed to screaming the engine with more gear.

The 410's were nothing more than an experiment. One that proved worthless to my setup.

For now, I'm happy to have the 342's back in the car...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adh4BnfBMBg

Damn, I guess your not running sticky tires? Have you snapped any ring/pinions yet?

I'm running 4.11's in my 12 bolt. I have an auto, 3600 stall and 451/411 at the wheels. Any and all street tires are useless below 60mph. And I'm running 315/35/17 KD's. I just started running 315 MT ET street DR's and I have almost perfect traction from a dig in warm weather on the street, and hook from hell at the track. I'm running out of gear at the track before I hit the 1/4. I wish I had 3.73's or less. Unless you don't plan on never running nitrous...I say don't do it. it is a track gear only.

Most recommend 373s for a n/a auto, 3.42 for forced induction in an auto.

315-35/17 Nitto Drag radials,perfect launches on the street

Now i had stock gearing and stall...But ya the nittos so far have been great.. will see how they like about 2-300 pounds less weight more power 4.10's and a 3600 stall..

3.73's for an auto