alamantia

iTrader: (10)

http://syntheticwarehouse.com/brochu...lube_study.pdf

ss1

iTrader: (32)

I agree Amsoil is great stuff. But, some will say since the test was prepared for Amsoil that the results are biased.

Black02SLPSS

iTrader: (5)

That was an excellent read. However im sure alot of people will chime in and say the results were biased and that they have never had a problem with brand x gear lube. Not to say that amsoils is the best or worst in any case, but thats what some will say. Good read though.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I am no longer a believer in synthetic gear oil for a rear end.
Last year I went to the strip and after 5 runs my 3.90 Motive ring and pinion in my nine inch with 2K miles was totally destroyed. The gears prior to going to the track were setup correctly and were 90% silent and working very well. I was running synthetic royal purple lube IIRC and no it was not low on fluid.

As soon as I hit the street to return home they were screaming like a banshee on acceleration only and vibrating like OMG. Went around a corner and they were clunking something awful too.

Got home and pulled the gearcase and found that the teeth on the R&P were severely worn down and the housing was full over silver sludge to the point where there was .040" of backlash. Original setting was .010" IIRC. Nothing moved in the gear case, this was caused by heat and friction.

There is no reason these gears should have failed like they did so I blamed it on the synthetic lube after surfing the net and finding that a few others have had the same problem. I found a 50/50 split on those who swore by synthetic and those who would never put it in the rearend and go racing.

I now have new gears and am running standard 70/90 gear oil and all is well, but I have not been back to the track since.

My 2 cents.

amsoilguy

iTrader: (1)

I know AMSOIL works great. Over the last 10 years I haved used it with nothing but gains. I am in no way going to bash on royal purple, but like the post before me. I had royal purple in my diff. It killed me to know I had purple stuff in my diff case whlie i was a AMSOIL dealer but I let it ride for a while. I was very easy on my car and 6 months later she was a screamer, from easy DD driving. I pulled the cover and I had the most beautiful silver color fluid pouring out. backlash was .020 over spec. HMMMMMmmmmmmmm. I dont know maybe we got lucky lol. never had a problem with AMSOIL synthetic. synthetic wont fix or prevent mechanical failures either but i know everyone knows that. But that was for just in case

cam

iTrader: (9)

Whale oil

Seriously.... Its the ultimate but its impossible to find nowadays

sroach20

iTrader: (31)

dont know why, everytime i walk into walmart i see whales everywhere.

Awake455

Wow, for a second there I thought you were living in the Fort Drum area. Guess they are everywhere though.

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

I've always used any ole 80/90 dino gear oil. I don't think synthetic is necesary nor do I believe it works better in the rear.

cam

iTrader: (9)

LOL indeed. Maybe thats the ticket? Worked for Tyler Durdens soap maybe this is the great untapped renewable oil resource that we have all overlooked


Seriously though the type of lube used depends on intended results and the carrier type. For plate clutch type carriers ( Eaton, t-loc, etc. ) I like GL5 syn with no additive. Seems to be the right combination of just enough friction on the clutch plates but not so much that it chatters. Regular dyno lube works GREAT in plate clutch type carriers without additive but it chatters and the clutches wear out fast. Thats the thing you have to look at. Intended purpose. If you want max bite and dont care about getting 100k miles out of it then run the thinnest lube you can get it will spin easier ( slightly more hp ) and the sucker will bite like an alligator but it will also wear out faster. I know of some guys who run ATF with Torsen diffs in their track cars. Works amazing but the carriers last a season and then throw em away.

Theres little doubt that synthetic lubes are superior to dyno lubes now on pretty much all wear related comparisons but it doesn't always mean it will "perform" better with them. It will probably just be able to go longer before it needs changing which is what makes the syn lubes able to keep things working longer.

Any fresh lube/oil is great provided it has the correct rating for application but the syn stuff lasts longer.

All in all? Its practically NEVER that any failure of a diff ( or engine for that matter ) is caused by the lube/oil itself unless the owner neglected to check level, and changed it according to spec.

Vickk

Like most if not all of you, I'm a gear head. Been one for over 40 years. I delivered automotive and industrial lubricants, solvents, chemicals and related products like anti-freeze, filters,additives and so on. The owner of the company(Lupac Distributors) was a doctor. Not the guy with the rubber glove checking your colon for polyps but the guy who worked as a petrochemist for the Texaco Research Lab in Beacon NY. The man is the oil doctor. He taught me a lot about this stuff in the 5 years I worked for him. To get to my point, if someone or some company makes a claim of a lubricant being the best its purely conjecture. According to George the PhD in petrochemistry. at Texaco they didn't match their lubricants against other company's products, they tested their own extensively to meet certain criteria and licensing requirements. So if you say a product has worked well for you over the course of time that's an honest testimonial. If however you say so and so's is the best your just plain full of s**t because the people that made and bottled it don't even know themselves. One thing he was adamant about was additives. He said as far as motor oil goes, don't add anything to it. The engineers like himself spent loads of time and money to make certain that everything that needs to be in there already is. Now for my opinion. Find a NAME BRAND product that you can afford and works well for you and stick with it. Remember that the cost of marketing a product is equal to or greater than the cost of producing the stuff. Vick.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Good post, but we know things do change over time, like emissions requirements. The main additive that is debated is Zinc (anti-wear). Too much and catalytic converters take a ****, so the levels are reduced in mainstream oils. Guys running no cats often add some back in, or use a "break-in" oil that contains above normal levels. Whether this actually helps or not I have no factual data to back it up, but the reasoning behind it definitely makes you think.