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Restoring the rear end to "better than factory"

Old 12-10-2009, 09:14 AM
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Default Restoring the rear end to "better than factory"

Here are my plans for this winter:

New Rotors, Pads, Ebrake Shoes and hardware.
Moser Axles
Auburn Differential
New Set of Stock Gears
TA Cover
Welded Axle Tubes.

What are you guys coating the rear with? I was thinking POR 15 or something brake fluid resistant.

The car might see the track in the future but just for ***** and giggles, only street tires etc.

I think this will keep the car driveable and reliable under all situations
Old 12-10-2009, 09:17 AM
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Sounds like you did your homework.
Old 12-10-2009, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cambirdracing
Sounds like you did your homework.
Good way to save money/time
Old 12-10-2009, 11:08 AM
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I would go Eaton over the Auburn if I had the extra cash. Eaton is rebuildable and Auburn is not, also plan on a rebuild kit for that rearend too. Other than that you are good.

Jeff
Old 12-10-2009, 11:49 AM
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Thanks for the input! Also will be purchasing GM wheel bearings and seals, as I have heard leaking issues with new manufacturers
Old 12-10-2009, 03:13 PM
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I broke 3 Eatons in 4 years..My Auburn Pro series posi unit seems fine. I bracket race 3-4 times per month.
Old 12-10-2009, 03:33 PM
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yea i herd the auburns are more for the shock of drag racing where as the eatons more for road racing
Old 12-10-2009, 08:50 PM
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Go with Timken bearings, those are top of the line axle bearings. A good differential to go with is to purchase a True-Trac helical based differential instead of a clutch based model.

If you have some money, you could always buy a bolt-in rear end, but that is only a suggestion.
Old 12-11-2009, 02:53 PM
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I have an eaton if you are interested it stood up to my full weight car on street tires cutting mid 1.8 60 fts with almost 500 to the wheels. PM me if interested.
Old 12-11-2009, 03:38 PM
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I will be interested after xmas. Getting my ducks in a row before I dive headfirst into this project. Plus the 79 t/a is occupying the shop at the moment, scattered to hell.
Old 12-11-2009, 07:20 PM
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Ratech rebuild kits have timken bearing sets.....
Old 12-11-2009, 11:01 PM
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If you're trying to get as much out of the 10 bolt as possible, might consider a tube brace for it too. I've heard that part of the reason for 10 bolt failures is tube flex putting stress on the gears that normally shouldn't be there.
Old 12-12-2009, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
If you're trying to get as much out of the 10 bolt as possible, might consider a tube brace for it too. I've heard that part of the reason for 10 bolt failures is tube flex putting stress on the gears that normally shouldn't be there.
??????????
Old 12-12-2009, 02:37 PM
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What he is saying is the axles tubes flex from the housing under load, distorting the careful measurements inside the housing. The axles tubes are only like pressed into the center chunk. Lots of guys weld them up, and some put braces that extend out to help stablize their movement under loads.

Last edited by 01ssreda4; 12-14-2009 at 01:10 AM.
Old 12-13-2009, 01:29 PM
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I see it allot on 4x4 rigs its just square tube mounts from top of housing to about mid axle tube
Old 12-13-2009, 02:16 PM
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Ahh, yeah I know what you guys are talking about but I think that would be complete overkill lol.
Old 12-13-2009, 02:40 PM
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Hey guys

What is it that makes the @#$% bearings go out in a 10-bolt? More specifically the pinion bearing(s)?
Old 12-14-2009, 01:12 AM
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^^^age, wear, and overpowering what it was designed to handle, which isnt anything with a V8
Old 12-21-2009, 03:45 AM
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any update on that, i might end up dooing somthing similar to this.
Old 12-21-2009, 04:59 AM
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The ring and pinion diameter in these rears is so small in diameter, than a decent launch can strip all the teeth of the gears. I saw it happen at our local track with a new set of Richmond gears. I have seen people put a lot of money into these 10 bolts only to have them still break. Bob

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