derek358

hey guys,

im pretty sure my pinion or carrier bearings in my stock 10 bolt are shot...

are there any how to tutorials on here to do that and is it completely necessary to reshim everything? also how exactly do you know how far to crush a new crush sleeve?

im strapped on cash and am looking to spend as little as possible.. and maybe ill even learn something

twelver12

iTrader: (3)

i have a bunch of stuff printed off about all the specs for the ten bolt tha i used when i did my pinion seal if i can find them i will post them

enjoy the lovely scent of that old diff fluid when you do this

quik01ss

iTrader: (24)

pinion and carrier bearing are easy you just need a press and a bearing clamp to get under the bearings to press them off you can reuse your shims and pinion shim if you are not changing the gears. as for the crush sleeve its really a hard spacer that doesnt crush but i did mine with the feeling of the pinion on how it spun to tight would be hard to turn and to loose will have play back and forth

derek358

so theres side shims and pinion shims which is all that set up a rear end correct?

i dont have a press, might be able to get a clamp though(rent or buy).. so its needed to take off and PUT ON new bearings? is it completely necessary or can i get by?

anyone have specs for how far to crush the crush sleeve?

I replaced my pinion seal with the old sleeve/make marks method.. but my rearend was whining before and still is now so i think its bearings since i drove on low diff oil for a little bit.. and yea the oil smells real bad ha!! garage still smells

quik01ss

iTrader: (24)

u need a press there is no other way to take them off the clamp then when installing the pinion bearing u need a piece of pipe to push the bearing back on u can reuse the shims under the pinion that are on the stock pinion now.

the carrier bearings u need the bearing clamp then the pipe thats the inside size of the diameter of the race that the bearing rollers go around so u dont break the bearing


http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm READ

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

good info

pjb

iTrader: (2)

did mine saturday. you will need a press to get the inner pinion bearing off and the new one on. pullers (2 or 3 jaw type) won't do it. I reused the original gears, shims. Just changed the pinion bearings and races. the outer one was chewed up, the inner looked good but I replaced it any way. left the carrier bearings alone, they looked great. new pinion seal, new pinion nut. tightened the pinion nut till I had about 20-25 in/lbs of rotational drag on the pinion before anything else in the rear was reinstalled. Haven't reinstalled the drive shaft, going to replace the U joints today and put it back in. I removed the stock torque arm to make things a lot easier to get to. Going to order a new UMI adjustable TA from Sam tomorrow when he gets back.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Click download installation instructions

http://www.jawsgear.com/tech_kits.php

http://www.greenfries.info/rear_gear.htm

http://www.keliente.com/gears1.htm

http://sethirdgen.org/10bolt2.htm

http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index.htm

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

the above 5 links should be REQUIRED reading before attempting a rearend rebuild.
thanks for posting them !

quik01ss

iTrader: (24)

If your doing the bearing you should also do the races that the bearsing sit in to for the ones that you are changing because if you do have bad bearings in the rear now they could scratch up or wearf the race it sits in causing noise so if u put a new bearing and not a new race it could still make noise.

Jon87transam

iTrader: (1)

subscribing!!!

derek358

see the only thing i debate after reading up on this for about a good 5-6hrs is some people i see using pullers and others presses.. some of the how to's dont even mention presses.. just picked up a race installer kit and did all my homework.. gonna borrow all the jaw pullers and pullers period my friends own and go to work on it tmrw.. i might be on the forums asking for advice ha..

how much will/should a shop charge me to remove and replace that bearing if i simply bring the pinion in with a new bearing? a press cost 80 bucks at harbor but doesnt come with the correct size tubing and what not to press these

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

I had a local machine shop do the pinion bearing removal/install for me. I think they charged me $10 each time. But they also let me borrow an oversize carrier bearing to test fit my stock shim with my new setup - for free. And they let me borrow a big lever type tool that held the pinion yoke while I tightened the f'ing nut to crush the collar - for free. And they answered all my questions. Great guys.

pjb

iTrader: (2)

when replacing the pinion bearings, do they need to be pre-lubed or is filling the rear with new fluid good enough?

derek358

apparently a fill should be enough but a lot of people do lube them with gear oil before assembly into the races.. im sure either or is good.. but illl dab a little oil when i do them