mentiroso

Well I finally had the o2 sensor replaced today but while it was on the rack I took a look underneath real good and found the rear pinion seal is leaking. It is either a really slow leak or it just started. I have no spots in the driveway so it is not that bad and the guy stuck his finger in there and was able to get fluid on it fairly easy.

Question is, how much does this cost to replace roughly? I know the seal is what, $5-$10? How much labor are we talking?

Also I looked under the car and still can not find any casting number (5.7 or 6.0). It has the 243 heads so I am curious what block it has and I am either blind or stupid because everyone seems to be able to find these numbers but me.

Thanks for the help again!!

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

you can replace it but itll probably leak again. common problem with stock 10 bolts. if its seeping just keep an eye on it.

Jon@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (18)

Probably a couple hundred bucks. The rearend has to come appart and yoke has to come off to get the pinion out of the rearend before you can replace it.

Jon

mentiroso

Well the dealership said they would do it for $130 so I was kind of price checking them. Seems to be fair if you said around $200.

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

The rear end doesnt have to come apart if all you are changing is the pinion seal....

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

Actually, you don't need to take apart the rear end to replace just the pinion seal.

OP, if done right you shouldn't really have a problem leaking again for a long time. What most people fail to do is three things:

1. Before you install the new seal, you need to put liquid teflon on the splines of the pinion shaft (this keeps rear end fluid from seeping between the splines)

2. You need to put a little grease around the black seal part that actually touches the yoke. This will keep it from tearing

3. Where the part of the seal (metal part) touches the rear end housing, it is a good idea to put a little RTV around the seal so no fluid leaks between the seal and the housing.

Doing those three things will ensure the new seal is leak free for a long time.

mentiroso

Ahh excellent advice. I will make sure they do those three things. I will be watching them do it so I should be good to go once I fix this and that pesky window issue that popped up on Friday. Good thing I had 14 hours of overtime this paycheck!

z28camaro1090

I had the same issue i just had the whole rear end rebuilt. cost me 200 labor.. and 117 for timkin bearings.. also replace the U joints as well as this is why mine went bad i believe.. My rear still whines alittle bit not bad but honestly what 10 bolt doesnt whine lol

Jon@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (18)

You can do it without pulling it apart if you absolutely must. I just like to replace the crush sleeve and reset the backlash if I'm taking it loose. If you don't care, pull the yoke off and hammer a new one in and be done with it.

Jon

joshp14

iTrader: (5)

As long as you proprly measure rotating pinion preload prior to removal, make reference marks to make sure proper driveline balance is maintained, and properly tighten the nut to 3-5 in/lbs after assy, you will be fine. Been doing it this way for a long time...never had a problem with seals leaking or pinion bearings failing. That being said, everyone has their own way of doing things so more power to you. I guess you could say I have a 'flat rate' mentality.

O2Form

I just did my 02 pinion seal with the second design seal, was a real pita the yoke refused to come off because of the sealer gm used on the splines. I had to use a steering wheel puller to get it off.

What i did was carefully mark the pinion nut and pinion with a index mark, then removed the nut and used the puller to get the yoke off. Then removed the seal carefully by tapping the flange around the seal. The second design seal comes out of the housing very easily BUTT putting back in was a complete pain in the AZZ. You can't tap on it because of the curved flange SO we used a strip of oak wood and carefully tapped around the inside of the flange and after ALOT of BS we got it in. I then put a small amount of silicone sealer on the inside of the yoke splines out towards the nut area and reintalled it. I tightened the nut carefully back to the index mark I made then 1/6 inch more. Just a hair past the index mark. Rear is quiet and doesn't leak, I used a NAPA seal.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

may i add 1 more step?

4) make sure to scotch brite the area on the yoke that rides inside the seal, and use lube.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Good info posted here..did one this way a couple of months ago and it is working fine.