LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion - Low Trac Light from 60-65mph after rear end swap...

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- - Low Trac Light from 60-65mph after rear end swap... (https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/1363009-low-trac-light-60-65mph-after-rear-end-swap.html)

i was never told that my 4 channel may or may not work, nor was i told tweaking would be involved.....i was told along the lines of "we have sold hundreds of these rears, and nobody has ever said there 4 channel has never worked. but most of these guys dont do any 3 or 4 channel mods because they are race cars".

again, what do i need to shave in order to move the sensor closer to the reluctor. trust me, i have read many things about what can cause this system not to work.....well aware of all the stuff u mentioned...its not any of those. i had gm use the tech 2 to monitor stuff. the only thing i have not done is check the distance because i just recently read that in this thread. hopefully i will accomplish this weekend

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4 (Post 19942595)

Its definitely a finicky system IMO. Of course OEM stuff was never designed to be cutting edge, only just good enough to get through the warranty period.

funny you say that.....just happened to be doing a brake job on my 2002 taurus. just has abs. the one rear reluctor was super crooked, the magnet was literally caked with god knows what, reluctor a little rusty and i had to tap the ring a little less than 1/8" to straighten out....no abs issues before or after i straightened it. literally thought, "my friggin camaro has this that, new abs parts and still can't work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2 (Post 19941785)

Now for the housing being crooked. The housing could be a U and it would still not effect how the 4ch reads, it just needs the ring to spin and a sensor to read it. Not that this could happen for obvious reasons but you could mount the housing end ontop of the axle tube and it still just needs to read the reluctor wheel from the backing plate. As long as the backing plate is mounted to the housing end it should work. A wobbly ring can effect how it reads and this is where we get back to making sure it is 100% true when spinning. Another issue is you need to shave the sensor with aftermarket housing ends to fit and this step is often not done or not done well enough. This is do to the bigger housing ends to fit a bigger bearing. If you force it in the pick up portion will be at an angle and you need to make sure it is parallel with the ring.

I think the statement in bold is most likely my problem. I will check the air gap but it looks very close to the 10bolt gap. There must be something to the signal around the 60-80 MPH mark as that seems to be where the majority of the problems are. Maybe at that speed is when the signal tolerances get tighter or something so a tone ring wobbling before that is still within spec. Its just odd that mine doesn't do it all the time. Maybe 50% of the time around those speeds is when I get an error popping up. Mine also seems to be much more sensitive to bumps in the road causing an error as well.

still waiting for mwc to tell me what needs to be adjusted for this to work.......

Like stating previously check all these scenarios-

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Different size tires, low tire pressure, spool, non spooled differential locking up like a spool, powder coated backing plates, ground down backing plates during cleaning, bad sensors, deteriorating wiring, pulling wiring out of the plug during disassembly, not pushing the plug in completely on reassembly, bent backing plates, not using the tin shield, and so many other things to consider that may cause unforeseen issues. The final step is to make sure the wheel spins true and adjust the gap on the sensor until the system reads properly.

I hope that helps.

And as I have previously said, I done all that stuff. What does MWC recommend I do to adjust the gapp of the sensor to the reluctor wheel since that is non adjustable without modifying something

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floorman279 (Post 19948311)

And as I have previously said, I done all that stuff. What does MWC recommend I do to adjust the gapp of the sensor to the reluctor wheel since that is non adjustable without modifying something

Modify whatever is needed to be modify to tighten or expand the gap as needed until the ABS functions properly if that is indeed the issue as there is only the backing plate or the sensor itself to choose from.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floorman279 (Post 19948311)

And as I have previously said, I done all that stuff. What does MWC recommend I do to adjust the gapp of the sensor to the reluctor wheel since that is non adjustable without modifying something

I used a dial gauge to make sure the ring was running true. I filed the sensor housing itself to allow it to move and point once bolted down. Thats how I did it on my Fab 9. . .when ABS didnt work I looked at individual wheelspeed sensors using a $5 USB interface and the Torque app only to find I had a bad front sensor, the rears were working. It had gone bad sitting on stands for a couple of years. YYMV, GL.

edit: I also made sure the sensor pickup shaft ended up parallel to the notches in the ring and perpendicular to the reluctor's plane of rotation. I used a little bit of ultrablack over the sensor housing, paying special attention to areas that were filed...the sensor failing on the stands makes me think the issue with the stupid things is moisture ingress.

OK will look into that way

Quote:

Originally Posted by MidwestChassis (Post 14251143)

I'm sorry I wish I would of seen this before I left the shop. I would of got you all the proper measurements you needed. I might be swinging in their tomorrow because we have a ton of stuff going on I will look it up and get back to you, other wise i will call Eric and have him get the measurements you need.

Thats customer service right there...right on Midwest .