Popping 10 Bolt
10-31-2011, 12:39 PM
#21
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Ok, Thanks for that. I'll keep my eye out. I went to Mosers website and price checked a new 12 bolt, but it came up to like $2800 for everything that I wanted not counting shipping. It definitely seems like the way to go now will be either find a used posi unit, a used 12 bolt, or just rebuild the 10 bolt.
10-31-2011, 07:13 PM
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So by the time I pay for parts and labor, I would be better of just buying a new rear? I hope I can drive on my rear the way it is now, until I can afford another. Thinking about either a M9 or Moser 12. I know the M9 is stronger overall, but it's also more expensive.
11-01-2011, 08:32 AM
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I actually just saw Midwest Chassis 9 bolt on their website and I think I may go with it. It's a fully assembled 9" with torque arm and relocation for $2700 shipped. That seems like the best way to go for right now. It'll just be a few months before I can order.
11-01-2011, 03:38 PM
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Yeah, my car is in the shop right now for a bent axle shaft, it's going to be fixed by insurance because my car was hit, but parts and labor for basically all bearings/seals/axles/some diff parts was quoted at 2543 *IF* the housing isn't bent, which it may be... but insurance will say no and I'll probably end up with a used rear assembly... if a miracle happens I'll be buying an S60 or fab 9 though who knows.
11-01-2011, 04:36 PM
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After looking more I've narrowed it done to either the Midwest 9" or the Moser 12. Both are roughly the same cost, so I just need to decide what I want more. But in the meantime I've gotta start saving.
11-01-2011, 06:14 PM
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why dont you just get a used 10bolt complete for $350ish? I asked around just in case my 10bolt perform a self destruct and a used one with low miles is around $350. 
11-01-2011, 07:14 PM
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The only downside I have seen to the s60 is the weight.... I talked to CRP and Carl said it would be like $2200 for the s60 so it would definitely save money. I am still kind of leaning towards the Midwest 9" though.
11-01-2011, 08:43 PM
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That's a good point, I had just rears an article about the hp loss with the stronger rears and I didn't want to lose too much. But I guess the loss is well worth never having to worry about breaking the rear.
11-02-2011, 10:22 PM
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There are a few things you can do to make the 10 bolt a little stronger. 1) get a TA rear cover 2) weld the axle tubes on the pumpkin 3) make braces for the axle tubes to prevent deflection.
When I messed mine up, I decided on going with 373s. On top of putting more strain on the rear, you will also be increasing the chance of gear whine etc and if you are paying someone to do this, it will add probably an extra couple hundred in labor. I would vote if your pinion gear is still good, leave it be and spend that money on an aftermarket diff cover.
When I messed mine up, I decided on going with 373s. On top of putting more strain on the rear, you will also be increasing the chance of gear whine etc and if you are paying someone to do this, it will add probably an extra couple hundred in labor. I would vote if your pinion gear is still good, leave it be and spend that money on an aftermarket diff cover.
11-03-2011, 04:31 PM
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It can help, I wouldnt say it will necessarily keep you from breaking again but it will decrease the chances by a bit. And if you aren't the type to beat the crap out of your car, I'd say it's a worth while investment
11-03-2011, 06:52 PM
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The diff cover he is talking about is like a stud girdle. It has a coule bolts going through the diff that presses on the carrier and stiffens it up. Makes the whole unit stronger. Works well with my M6
11-03-2011, 07:51 PM
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After used part dillemmas that's ^ the route I'm going also, using the insurance estimate dollars to buy a truetrac diff (my torsen is shot or I was going to reuse it with the new axles), a pair of Moser axles, full rebuild kit (bearings, etc) wheel studs and one of the covers they are talking about. That should last me enough time or even more to save up for the real deal next season 