Popping 10 Bolt
10-28-2011, 02:03 PM
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Popping 10 Bolt I noticed my 10 bolt popping pretty badly when decelerating and when it was in the shop yesterday the mechanic said he thought the differential was going bad. Something along the line of the clutches were bad in it? Well, the car is a m6 that is daily driven and never goes to the track. I highly doubt it will ever go to the track either. So my question is what is the best differential to put in the 10 bolt, and also should I upgrade axles or anything like that? If it helps, I know it is a 3 channel rear so there is no Traction Control.
10-28-2011, 06:22 PM
#2
It doesn't have 'clutches',99-02 got Torsen differentials,UNLESS,since it's an SS,it could have gotten an Auburn or Eaton differential as a requested option at SLP when it was made into an SS.
The SLP build sheet order will tell you what it has and if you don't have the sheet,contacting SLP with the SLP # 6081,they will tell you what it got.
OR is it the 93 you're talking about which would have an Auburn with 'cone' clutches.?
The SLP build sheet order will tell you what it has and if you don't have the sheet,contacting SLP with the SLP # 6081,they will tell you what it got.
OR is it the 93 you're talking about which would have an Auburn with 'cone' clutches.?
10-28-2011, 06:49 PM
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I'm talking about the 2002. According to my SLP door tag and birth certificate it doesn't have an upgraded rear. So I guess that means its Torsen. What should I do?
10-29-2011, 09:49 AM
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The first time I blew my 10 bolt I started out getting a pop sound while making right turns. Then it started doing it on decel and left turns. I pulled my diff cover and found I cracked the carrier casing in half and the carrier was deflecting on itself and trying to fall apart. it felt like it would bind then make a loud pop as it went back in place. Maybe you have the same issue?
10-29-2011, 10:05 AM
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That sounds just like it. It actually will have a very hard pop when turning in reverse. What's the best way to fix it? Sorry, I'm a complete noob with the 10 bolt.
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10-29-2011, 07:16 PM
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the 373 or 410 would make the rear end weaker the ring and pinion teeth get smaller. m6 are also harder on the rear than an auto. i want a better rear for my car but there quite expensive.
10-29-2011, 11:13 PM
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I've looked into a 9 bolt or s60, but they are very pricy! But on the other hand, to rebuild the 10 bolt I'm looking at $1000 in parts and labor, so it's not too big if a difference. I also don't race my car though, so the 10 bolt may be enough. Decisions decisions.....
10-30-2011, 11:26 AM
#13
Same situation happen to me, but I found a used $75 posi that lasted for about 3 years until I tried spraying out of the hole on a well hooking track:
M6s and stock rearends don't go well together, but you stated that you don't race, so you "may" be ok. I would look for a used posi before coughing up close to $500 for a new one.
M6s and stock rearends don't go well together, but you stated that you don't race, so you "may" be ok. I would look for a used posi before coughing up close to $500 for a new one.
10-31-2011, 06:23 AM
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Ok. I'll keep an eye out. Have you heard of the Torsen T2-r? From what I have read it is the strongest differential for the 10 bolt. But I want to make sure, because they list for $675.
10-31-2011, 06:32 AM
#17
there is no such thing as a strong 10 bolt in a m6 car,there crap, if your thinking of spending 650 on a part for the 10 bolt you should look for a used rearend, 650 is almost half way there for a decent 12 bolt, and as long as your not at the track every week it will do you just fine,my buddy got his 12 bolt for 1400 used, he put a few bucks into a gear change and a few other lil parts and now his rearend is done. listen if you buy that part for 650, then you think about doing gears etc since its all ready apart, well by the time you did all that with labor cost etc, you will still have a weak rearend . like i said you can buy a used rearend for the cost to build a 10 bolt