texas99Z28

I have been mulling this over for more than a year. Should i invest in new MWC Fab9 assembly, driveshaft, etc.? Or, save money for other things, and keep 10 Bolt? You hear both sides. Some people say, a 10 Bolt with DR's is automatic destruction, others say they're stronger than people say they are. Should i invest all that money, or not? I'm leaning towards doing it, and not worrying about 10 Bolt anymore. What should I do?

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Well now, that's the 3500 dollar question isn't it? You're running stock heads and cam with a auto, I'm thinking you'll be fine with the 10 bolt.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

We can build the 10 bolt up real well... cost about 1300.00 by the time you get a good posi, girdle cover, good ring and pinion set, install kit, solid pinion bearing spacer, and a set of Moser axles. Then if you have to pay a shop to do the labor you are getting into another 300-500.

What do you have when you're done... the stock 10 bolt rearend still. Even though it has all the best parts in it, you can still break the ring and pinion or side gears in the posi. Ask all the people that call here and tell me they're tired of constantly throwing parts and money in the 10 bolt. I always hear the "I wish I woulda"


We normally call this throwing good money after bad.

Whatever you decide, I can get you setup with al the correct parts whether it be for the stock rearend, the MWC fabricated 9 inch package, or anything from Strange, Moser, or Yukon.

texas99Z28

I'm leaning towards just getting one of your Fab 9" assemblies! Thing is, my car is a daily driver pushing 360rwhp, and i go to track twice a year. Do i REALLY need a 9" rear end? Honestly, I dont know. I dont plan to ever sell the car, so, I figure it's worth the money to do it right. But, i dont take it to the track often enough to warrant spending the money. Really confused.

dannyz

You have nothing to worry about dude. That 10 bolt will have no trouble handling your current setup.

Joe Spinners

iTrader: (2)

just something to think about...my car is a full bolt-on/suspension car (364/368 is what it dyno'd when Pat G did my tune) and I grenaded the 10 bolt on my first dead hook, it took the tranny with it too. Based on my previous cars, I didn't think I would've needed to upgrade it at any point with just bolt ons so I spent my money elsewhere and left the 10 bolt in it. I guess its a hit or miss lol. Don't know what your plans are but if you do plan on modding your car, I'd advise you get one and get it over with. I ordered a MWC 9" and Eric was extremely helpful and a great person to converse with. I talked to him a few times throughout the week to figure out my options. He was never pushy and always took the time to answer any questions I had. It's a great buy IMO.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Strange 12 bolt. Call Carl at CRP, he'll hook you up.

justin hover

I had this thought about 40,000 hard driven miles ago. I would've hated dumping all that money into a new rear knowing I would've been fine for another 40,000miles. If it's not broke don't fix it man..Not with an auto and those mods.
It is a good idea to have money aside for when it does blow though.

projectX

iTrader: (51)

Agreed. Mine has been awesome to me at street/strip - no complaints - just refreshed everything up been going strong. This is not to say it wont break, I am just throwing it out there that apparently some are stronger than others. Some break at stock power, others are running 450rwhp and fine.

Cosmos

iTrader: (15)

Get a 9/12/60. Never look back. 10 bolts are crap. Autos seem to be easier on them but I would never put money into a 10 bolt. Just gears, but thats it. I would even put a seal kit in those pos. lol

sway99bird

iTrader: (22)

MWC 9 if you plan on making more HP.......

Brian2001SS

iTrader: (1)

They look good too.

dannyz

Ok. I don't think everybody is reading your whole post.
You are only at 360rwhp. I am going to guess your torque is probably in that same area. I am also going to estimate that you will not hit your peak tq till around 4800 rpms or so, right?
And since you don't have a stall, when you leave at that last amber your only going to be hitting that 10 bolt with maybe 200 pounds of tq. [ at best ]
You will not be at max power untill you are past that 60 ft mark.
Your safe.
What are your 60's?
Untill you get into the mid 1.5's and lower you have nothing to worry about.
Now, having said that, I fully expect to hear from the doomsday crowd that they all know someone who has broken a 10 bolt behind an auto with a stock engine while drag racing.
I havn't seen that myself.
Have had my car for 7 years with stacks of time slips with 60' times in the 1.62-1.69 range.
I am also at 423 rwhp w/a 3600 stall.
Still on the 10 bolt.
If it goes out tomorrow I certainly can't say it was a weak pos, can I?
And I am not the only one by far.
There are many many guys running low 11's, and some into the 10 second range on STOCK 10 bolts.
M6 guys are another story.
But they put a whole lot more shock onto their rearend then those of us that have auto's.
Don't worry about it.

97camaro383

iTrader: (31)

You cold also ask Carl about the S60, thats what im going with and he's a great guy to deal with.

Pimpium57

iTrader: (104)

gone high 1.3 60's on a 70k mile 10 bolt w 3.23s and its still alive

took another stock 10-bolt car to 50+ passes of 1.50-1.52s in another car, sold it after 2 years still running strong

that being said, theres also stories out there of stock/near stock cars popping them. another way to look at is you can sell the 10-bolt as a strong-runner and recoup a few hundred bucks for the new rear