Not the typical "can my 10-bolt be built?" thread
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not the typical "can my 10-bolt be built?" thread
First of all, don't slam me for asking about building up the 10-bolt. I can't count the number of times the question has come up whether or not a 10-bolt can be built strong, but this one is a little different that all the other questions. I know that most of you will tell me to just save my money and buy a (8.8, 9", 12-bolt, ect.), but I only take my car to the track 1-2 times/yr, and I don't plan on going faster than high 11's/low 12's.
I understand that the weakness of the 10-bolt is the small gear ring. If I'm not mistaken just about every part of the 7.5" 10-bolt can be replaced by strong pieces except for the weak gear ring. No matter what brand of gear you get that will always be the weak link because of the ring size, correct? What I was wondering is what if you use a 2-series carrier with a 2-series ring gear (not a 3-series gear with the spacer)? That would give you a thicker mating flange on the ring gear thus making it stronger. I think I read of someone doing this on this board and having some success with it. If I'm not mistaken he finally did break his rear, but it wasn't the gear that broke. It was his axles or diff. Would this help out with the strength or would that just make the weak link become the gear teeth themselves?
Also is it hard to find 3.73 or lower gears in 2-series? What about a good 2-series carrier?
I understand that the weakness of the 10-bolt is the small gear ring. If I'm not mistaken just about every part of the 7.5" 10-bolt can be replaced by strong pieces except for the weak gear ring. No matter what brand of gear you get that will always be the weak link because of the ring size, correct? What I was wondering is what if you use a 2-series carrier with a 2-series ring gear (not a 3-series gear with the spacer)? That would give you a thicker mating flange on the ring gear thus making it stronger. I think I read of someone doing this on this board and having some success with it. If I'm not mistaken he finally did break his rear, but it wasn't the gear that broke. It was his axles or diff. Would this help out with the strength or would that just make the weak link become the gear teeth themselves?
Also is it hard to find 3.73 or lower gears in 2-series? What about a good 2-series carrier?
#4
FormerVendor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Waldorf, MD
Posts: 3,059
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My dad and i have made the rear stronger by running a rear cover and using arp studs on the bearing caps after a few passes on the motive gears they are no louder than before. Just last week instead of chucking the gears out at the track i broke a fuggin axle that i will be replacing this weekend wiht a Moser Upgrade. Anythig else that breaks in the rear it will get repalced by a 9" since i am runnign a stick
#5
TECH Addict
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fat Chance Hotel
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I Don't know if this helps, but...
I used to run a Richmond 4.10 setup with a 3 series Auburn carrier on my 90 Camaro. Stock axles, yoke and c-clips too. The engine made ~350hp The catch was I used stock street tires 225/60/R15. They were extremely easy to spin. The moral of the story is "don't hook it too hard, and it *MIGHT* last." Of course this will take some will power. The temptation of launching the car is always there. If you want to run in the 11-12s, you *WILL* break the 10 bolt rear no matter how you upgrade it. The 10 bolt is unfortunately very weak. Do some math here. Compare the prices of beefing up the 10 bolt vs. buying a 12 or 8.8 or 9 + more peace of mind. Financially it might seem worth it, but economically it might not.
I used to run a Richmond 4.10 setup with a 3 series Auburn carrier on my 90 Camaro. Stock axles, yoke and c-clips too. The engine made ~350hp The catch was I used stock street tires 225/60/R15. They were extremely easy to spin. The moral of the story is "don't hook it too hard, and it *MIGHT* last." Of course this will take some will power. The temptation of launching the car is always there. If you want to run in the 11-12s, you *WILL* break the 10 bolt rear no matter how you upgrade it. The 10 bolt is unfortunately very weak. Do some math here. Compare the prices of beefing up the 10 bolt vs. buying a 12 or 8.8 or 9 + more peace of mind. Financially it might seem worth it, but economically it might not.