2002_TAWS6

Car is a 6spd. All mods in the bottom (i dont have any suspension mods).
Car Dynos 380rwhp 367rwtq NA , 483rwhp 589rwtq on spray.

This was done ALL on the street NOT THE DRAG STRIP. I chose a VERY empty spot to be as safe as possible. Because I have the stock 10 bolt, I slipped the clutch on all launches and tried to be a little "easy" on it. It was not the time for it to go .

Before every run: I heated the tires by stepping on clutch, raising RPMS while cruising in 1st, then popped the clutch and hammered the gas pedal. Burning the rubber as I go (Definetly NOT a smokey burnout just enough for a launch test).

Attempt 1:
Raised Rpm to 5000, slipped the clutch, mashed the gas pedal down it hooked. No weird sounds to report. No problems at all. I guess the rearend didnt have trouble with the power?

Attempt 2:
Turned Nitrous bottle on . Raised RPM to 3500, slipped the clutch, floored the gas pedal (WOT switch activates n20), car went sideways. I guess I slipped the clutch too quick, or maybe I sprayed it too low of an RPM spiking up my torque big time. Next thought: Maybe I should do a slower clutch slip at a higher RPM.

Attempt 3:
Nitrous still on. Raised RPMS to 5200, slipped the clutch (I think rpms fell to about 4500), floored it, it hooked! Good run almost the best launch I can do without burning out the tires and dropping the clutch instead of slipping it. NO weird sounds to report, car ran perfectly like before, No problems to report. I guess the stock rear end is not having trouble with the power?

(major knocking on wood), But what the hell is going on here? People have been telling me they broke their rearends in a completely STOCK car with STOCK Goodyears 275/40ZR17s?

When I sprayed in 1st gear I was VERY careful about NOT spraying if the car boggs (too much traction for available power). Didnt wanna ask for motor problems. Maybe because I had those thoughts in my head, I eventually sprayed it when it was barely spinning (better to spin then to be sorry if it boggs) and that saved the sudden huge torque impact? I have no idea.

ONE thing I forgot to mention was that I NEVER shifted to 2nd ONLY UNTIL the nitrous shuts off at my 6200rpm window switch. My optimal NA shiftpoint is at 6500rpms and thats when I was shifting. So I guess what im trying to say is that I never did a 1st to 2nd shift while on spray.

Enough entertainment , My Questions:
1) Can I break the rear end if I slip the clutch at the launch? What about the 1/4 mile track?
2) Can I break the rear end if I avoid shifting while n20 is still working?
3) What happens when your rearend starts to go bad? Does it break right away or does it slowly come apart kinda? How do I know mine is fine?
4) Im still GREATLY debating on whether I should swap my rearend with a much beefier setup.

Let me hear your opinions: Do you think I need one? Should I get one anyway?

MNSS

You are driving a ticking time bomb, I broke my rear with a 2.0 60 ft making about the same power, enjoy it while it lasts.

99-LS1-SS

You are definitely playing with fire. I hope you have a 9" or a 12 bolt waiting at home.

Tranzor

Your torsen unit will go out on you sooner rather than later with that sort of treatment... mine was howling and clunking after a few launches on Nittos at the track. It's the spider gears in the torsen that are most likely to go... and like everyone else said, I do hope you've got a 9" or 12 bolt budgeted for the near future.

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

One of my Good Friends had a cam, longtubes, TNT 100 Shot and 4.10's( in a 10 bolt) in his m6. He ran probally 30-40 times before the rear started making funny noises. All passes were on ET Street, dumping the clutch around 4k on the bottle low 1.5 60's. So I believe alot of how the rear holds up is in how well it was set up.

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

i never broke my 10 bolt until i started spraying it a few years ago. broke the ring gear on 2.0 sixty on drag radials then shortly after destroyed an Auburn posi, took out the spider gear..no idea how my Z28 ended up with an Auburn from the factory but sure enough it was in there and i broke it.

bought my 9" almost 2 years ago now.

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

SilverGhost, I have heard that the Auburns were factory from 93-98, only 99-02 got the Zexel Torsen I believe. Although there may be a few late 98's with them.

2002_TAWS6

damn... so I guess im going to have to need a rearend with that kind of driving ..

I thought maybe ill be fine if I slip the clutch? but I guess it doesnt matter since its still launching pretty hard and quick...

G5TA

I have broke mine twice int he last three weeks .That why im doing a 9 in as we speak. Im building it my self because i have already had the 9 in and the gears and diff. I made a torque arm braket.I should be out under 500 for a 9 in.

m1key99WS6

iTrader: (1)

My rear-end blew up pulling into a mexican restaurant during lunch on street tires! LOL, the torsen broke. The answer to your question is not if it will break, but WHEN it will break!

Cheers.

Mcduffys

iTrader: (2)

So let me ask this then, which is better the Auburn or the ZeXel ?

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

They are both a piece. Neither one will hold up to any serious abouse.