ABS Inop light and Trac light
#41
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I was specifically referring to 4 channels as they seem to be the ones effected. When an ABS system functions flawlessly before, and a rear end swap is the only change and it fails to function correctly afterward, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out. What exactly is the issue that's causing issues, I suspect sensor clearance or runout but am not certain, and at this point don't really care. I've heard the whole "how does our rear end change sensor placement when that's controlled by a stock backing plate" bit so don't bother. When it worked before perfectly, but doesn't work after, there isn't much left to talk about.
#42
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Wanted to be clear on what I was referring to:
Again, not an attack on any aftermarket vendor, as I've had issues with my Strange housing but never speak negatively about them. But in my opinion most times it absolutely is the new aftermarket rear end. OP, this may help you understand the system a little better: https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-end-swap.html
#43
How does that sensor install on a 3 channel rear? The sensor is used on 4 channel setups though they have adapted it to the 3 channel system. Is the reluctor ring located internally like a factory 10 bolt or did they make it work some other way?
I had similar issues on a factory 10 bolt which turned out to be a weak signal due to thick gear oil on the teeth of the ring. This proves that the gap is critical and signal is critical. I just don't have a good way of measuring it in my 3 channel... might be able to use some clay to get an idea as long as it didn't accidently fall inside the housing.
I had similar issues on a factory 10 bolt which turned out to be a weak signal due to thick gear oil on the teeth of the ring. This proves that the gap is critical and signal is critical. I just don't have a good way of measuring it in my 3 channel... might be able to use some clay to get an idea as long as it didn't accidently fall inside the housing.
#44
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
After some more driving, it seems that once at constant highway speeds for a few minutes, the lights will go off. Im totally at a loss.
Im starting to think it may have something to do with the machining of the reluctor rings. The stock ring teeth are square, where as the Moser ones are v shaped with a flat spot at the top equal to the width of the stock teeth. That and theyre more narrow than the stock rings... those variances might be enough of a change in the magnetic properties to throw the whole system off.
Im starting to think it may have something to do with the machining of the reluctor rings. The stock ring teeth are square, where as the Moser ones are v shaped with a flat spot at the top equal to the width of the stock teeth. That and theyre more narrow than the stock rings... those variances might be enough of a change in the magnetic properties to throw the whole system off.
#45
After some more driving, it seems that once at constant highway speeds for a few minutes, the lights will go off. Im totally at a loss.
Im starting to think it may have something to do with the machining of the reluctor rings. The stock ring teeth are square, where as the Moser ones are v shaped with a flat spot at the top equal to the width of the stock teeth. That and theyre more narrow than the stock rings... those variances might be enough of a change in the magnetic properties to throw the whole system off.
Im starting to think it may have something to do with the machining of the reluctor rings. The stock ring teeth are square, where as the Moser ones are v shaped with a flat spot at the top equal to the width of the stock teeth. That and theyre more narrow than the stock rings... those variances might be enough of a change in the magnetic properties to throw the whole system off.
Is there a way to use the stock reluctor rings in the aftermarket housings? If not, what are the differences and if so, would it be just simple machining?
I'm getting to the point where my 10 bolt may crap out on me and I would love to upgrade the rear while maintaining drivability since I'm mostly 95% street driven.
#46
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iTrader: (26)
Question about the bold:
Is there a way to use the stock reluctor rings in the aftermarket housings? If not, what are the differences and if so, would it be just simple machining?
I'm getting to the point where my 10 bolt may crap out on me and I would love to upgrade the rear while maintaining drivability since I'm mostly 95% street driven.
Is there a way to use the stock reluctor rings in the aftermarket housings? If not, what are the differences and if so, would it be just simple machining?
I'm getting to the point where my 10 bolt may crap out on me and I would love to upgrade the rear while maintaining drivability since I'm mostly 95% street driven.
#47
BMW ///M Nerd
iTrader: (5)
I want to pick up a narrowed 9" but this is the first time I've really heard about all the issues with aftermarket rears and ABS being thrown out the window.
I really don't feel like forking out 4k and having to 'scope my car and pull my hair out for trying to diagnose this issue.
I realize this is not a MWC only issue, just can't believe so many people have this problem, threw every new part/checked all, and no fix.
I really don't feel like forking out 4k and having to 'scope my car and pull my hair out for trying to diagnose this issue.
I realize this is not a MWC only issue, just can't believe so many people have this problem, threw every new part/checked all, and no fix.
#48
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iTrader: (26)
The 4ch system is very sensitive, and out of the 1000s of rearends we have sold only a few of the 4ch rears have had problems, and zero of the 3ch rears.
Most people do not ever have the ABS system activate in the time they own the car so the worthiness of keeping the system can be debated.
ABS will not stop you quicker, it stops you straighter.
Most people do not ever have the ABS system activate in the time they own the car so the worthiness of keeping the system can be debated.
ABS will not stop you quicker, it stops you straighter.
#51
BMW ///M Nerd
iTrader: (5)
The 4ch system is very sensitive, and out of the 1000s of rearends we have sold only a few of the 4ch rears have had problems, and zero of the 3ch rears.
Most people do not ever have the ABS system activate in the time they own the car so the worthiness of keeping the system can be debated.
ABS will not stop you quicker, it stops you straighter.
Most people do not ever have the ABS system activate in the time they own the car so the worthiness of keeping the system can be debated.
ABS will not stop you quicker, it stops you straighter.
There are multiple instances of this across the range of aftermarket 4 channels when you really look into it. Nobody has seemed to put the time in to diagnose it, but just about every component has been shotgunned by more than a handful.
I'm an 11 year BMW master tech and can scope and record into nanoseconds. My point is, what is the root of the problem
Is your opinion simply sensor gap fluctuation? Possibly due to inboard/outboard axle movement under load? How so/much compared to a stock junk?
I hope you don't take this as being under fire. You guys and Brutespeed are really the only gurus the seem to chime in around here and thats appreciated
#52
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
bad *** ta ws6 - i wish someone with the technical skills needed could diagnose the issue. it's frustrating to have this problem, especially when extra money was paid to maintain the feature. i finally just pulled the fuses after MONTHS of trying to fix it. whether it is brutespeed or mwc or whomever. to hear only a "few" of 1000s have issues makes me wonder really how many actually have the 4ch setup and are using it. i think i've seen on this forum as many guys say they had trouble with their 4ch as have said they work fine. oh well.... i guess as long as its not THEIR problem the issue will remain unresolved.
#53
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (16)
bad *** ta ws6 - i wish someone with the technical skills needed could diagnose the issue. it's frustrating to have this problem, especially when extra money was paid to maintain the feature. i finally just pulled the fuses after MONTHS of trying to fix it. whether it is brutespeed or mwc or whomever. to hear only a "few" of 1000s have issues makes me wonder really how many actually have the 4ch setup and are using it. i think i've seen on this forum as many guys say they had trouble with their 4ch as have said they work fine. oh well.... i guess as long as its not THEIR problem the issue will remain unresolved.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#54
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (26)
bad *** ta ws6 - i wish someone with the technical skills needed could diagnose the issue. it's frustrating to have this problem, especially when extra money was paid to maintain the feature. i finally just pulled the fuses after MONTHS of trying to fix it. whether it is brutespeed or mwc or whomever. to hear only a "few" of 1000s have issues makes me wonder really how many actually have the 4ch setup and are using it. i think i've seen on this forum as many guys say they had trouble with their 4ch as have said they work fine. oh well.... i guess as long as its not THEIR problem the issue will remain unresolved.
I have my own ideas of why the system has problems, but until Strange and Moser decide they need to address the issues all we can do is offer advice. The system is obviously very sensitive, and more often than not the problem has been with the wiring or sensors, not the reluctor rings or sensor mounts. There are several known issues with abs systems, and not just on these cars, but most of the time the sensor or harness is at fault. I worked for GM for several years and experienced this first hand.
First and foremost most people just want answers and a "just do or replace this" and it all goes away. Not that easy. In order to properly diagnose a 4ch abs system fault you need to use a good scan tool such as the GM Tech2, Snap-On, or OTC type systems. You will need to plug in the scanner, clear the codes, and then drive the car to actually see the fault happen... and at the same time monitor the live speed sensor readings on all 4 corners- at various speeds, bumps, and turns. From this info someone can help to pinpoint areas to look at and hopefully find the true issue.
From my experience and outlook on the problem the Moser reluctor rings are not designed correctly(made like a gear tooth profile instead of square cut), and the placement of the Strange reluctor ring is too far away from the sensor. The problem lies in the fact there is very little clearance between the reluctor ring and the back of the wheel studs, when set in a position to clear the bolts that hold the backing plate on. The 9" housing end design leaves very little room to place the ring, and forces it to be moved outboard somewhat compared to the location of the oem sensor/backing late/reluctor ring.
I would think that if someone would take the time to make sure their harness and sensors are truly good with proper scan tool diagnosis included, and then do what it takes to get the sensor tip all the way under the ring and in the correct air gap(complete oem placement) at the same time the problem should be remedied. This is just my opinion, and not to be taken as directions for service.
#55
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
hey bob and eric - i just reread my post and it was way too pissy. sorry. my point should have been that hopefully someone with the time and expertise will be able to ID the issue for us that have problems. my mwc unit has worked (and looks) beautifully - no gripes. pulling the fuses is good enough for now!
eric - i did purchase the proper tools to monitor the voltage on all 4 corners so trust me when i say i've spent considerable time and money trying to resolve the issue. also, had a dealer work on it.... all to say that i haven't relied on others to fix my problem. and i understand you can't spend the time either.
btw - my signals start to whack out around 70 miles per hour......... some day i'll maybe try again. in retrospect should have just deleted it and used a proportioning valve. oh well. seemed like the right decision at the time.
eric - i did purchase the proper tools to monitor the voltage on all 4 corners so trust me when i say i've spent considerable time and money trying to resolve the issue. also, had a dealer work on it.... all to say that i haven't relied on others to fix my problem. and i understand you can't spend the time either.
btw - my signals start to whack out around 70 miles per hour......... some day i'll maybe try again. in retrospect should have just deleted it and used a proportioning valve. oh well. seemed like the right decision at the time.
Last edited by mterveen; 06-20-2014 at 03:06 PM.
#56
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (16)
hey bob and eric - i just reread my post and it was way too pissy. sorry. my point should have been that hopefully someone with the time and expertise will be able to ID the issue for us that have problems. my mwc unit has worked (and looks) beautifully - no gripes. pulling the fuses is good enough for now!
eric - i did purchase the proper tools to monitor the voltage on all 4 corners so trust me when i say i've spent considerable time and money trying to resolve the issue. also, had a dealer work on it.... all to say that i haven't relied on others to fix my problem. and i understand you can't spend the time either.
btw - my signals start to whack out around 70 miles per hour......... some day i'll maybe try again. in retrospect should have just deleted it and used a proportioning valve. oh well. seemed like the right decision at the time.
eric - i did purchase the proper tools to monitor the voltage on all 4 corners so trust me when i say i've spent considerable time and money trying to resolve the issue. also, had a dealer work on it.... all to say that i haven't relied on others to fix my problem. and i understand you can't spend the time either.
btw - my signals start to whack out around 70 miles per hour......... some day i'll maybe try again. in retrospect should have just deleted it and used a proportioning valve. oh well. seemed like the right decision at the time.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#57
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
From my experience and outlook on the problem the Moser reluctor rings are not designed correctly(made like a gear tooth profile instead of square cut), and the placement of the Strange reluctor ring is too far away from the sensor. The problem lies in the fact there is very little clearance between the reluctor ring and the back of the wheel studs, when set in a position to clear the bolts that hold the backing plate on. The 9" housing end design leaves very little room to place the ring, and forces it to be moved outboard somewhat compared to the location of the oem sensor/backing late/reluctor ring.
While the top flat spot of the reluctor teeth dimensionally are near identical to the stock ones, the shape of the rest of the tooth as well as the amount of steel used is different than stock, thus changing its magnetic signature. Throw a few thousandths of changes in both height and depth of the sensor AND the ring in, and now we have a "part stack up" that doesn't meet the criteria that the system was originally designed for.
I would bet that if spacers were machined and allowed the use of the stock reluctor wheels, these problems would disappear. Once I have a larger workspace and a lathe, I may dive into this... but until then, Im probably going to pull the ABS fuse.