Pinion Seal Replacement Question
02-22-2016, 11:03 AM
#1
Pinion Seal Replacement Question I will be replacing my pinion seal, and I am planning on using the method of marking the yolk when putting the nut back on. I am confused as to where exactly I should be marking. If someone could explain exactly how to put the nut back on correctly after the seal swap, it would be greatly appreciated. Pictures would be helpful as well if you have them or can take them.
02-22-2016, 12:01 PM
#2
02-22-2016, 01:55 PM
#3
So, if I were to mark the nut which way was facing up and then counted the threads before I broke it loose and then ran it down until the same number of threads was showing and made sure the nut was oriented the same way (mark facing up) would that also work? It seems like that would be and harder for me to mess up haha
02-22-2016, 03:57 PM
#6
I guess I am having trouble visualizing it. Unless I actually mark the threaded part of the shaft (which I don't think is what you are suggesting) how does this ensure that I thread the nut on the correct number of turns? Is this what the mark on the yolk is used for?
02-23-2016, 07:52 AM
#7
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There won't be any threads sticking out. Picture a nut and a bolt. Start screwing the nut on the bolt but stop before the bolt comes all the way through. Get it? The nut generally only leaves a tiny bit of thread and not enough to actually count. If you scribe the nut, plus the inside which is the gear, you can line the two up exact. If you miss it by a full turn or whatever you will definitely know, cause it will either be way to sloppy or way too tight. That nut sets the tension on the main bearings. You need to read some gear disassembly write ups so this makes more sense to you before you jump in.
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02-23-2016, 08:30 AM
#8
As mentioned above, the torque required to initially crush the sleeve in the rear end is a lot. You'll know when you are close to where it was set before loosening it. If you need to rotate more, you'll know right away. When you put the new seal in I recommend driving the yoke back into the housing using an impact so that you don't screw up the seal. I did not fully tighten it back up though using the impact for fear of going past my mark. I just used a large torque wrench. You don't want to tighten the crush sleeve any more or you could ruin your bearings. Once you get under there and take the drive shaft off it will make more sense.
02-25-2016, 09:46 AM
#9
There won't be any threads sticking out. Picture a nut and a bolt. Start screwing the nut on the bolt but stop before the bolt comes all the way through. Get it? The nut generally only leaves a tiny bit of thread and not enough to actually count. If you scribe the nut, plus the inside which is the gear, you can line the two up exact. If you miss it by a full turn or whatever you will definitely know, cause it will either be way to sloppy or way too tight. That nut sets the tension on the main bearings. You need to read some gear disassembly write ups so this makes more sense to you before you jump in.
As mentioned above, the torque required to initially crush the sleeve in the rear end is a lot. You'll know when you are close to where it was set before loosening it. If you need to rotate more, you'll know right away. When you put the new seal in I recommend driving the yoke back into the housing using an impact so that you don't screw up the seal. I did not fully tighten it back up though using the impact for fear of going past my mark. I just used a large torque wrench. You don't want to tighten the crush sleeve any more or you could ruin your bearings. Once you get under there and take the drive shaft off it will make more sense.
05-14-2016, 12:23 AM
#12
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yikes Did you have to use a puller to remove the yoke?
05-14-2016, 08:22 AM
#13
working on a rearend under the car is annoying but sometimes that's the way it has to be.
Yoke can be difficult to remove depending upon the slip/interference fit. Once off,clean the internal splines with a 'toothbrush size' wire brush to make re-assembly easier. I also 'rework' the seal surface of the yoke to try to get it back to factory surface finish. The highly polished surface were it rode at the seal is too smooth and I use 400/800 grit paper to get it back to original look. There was a seal change,make sure the new seal you got fits the yoke.
Since the rearend/back end of the car is gonna be up,I'd remove the wheels,unbolt the calipers from the brackets and let them hang off to the side and then remove the rotors. Removing these will allow you to get a true feel of the current rotational torque (by hand) required to turn the pinion,carrier,axles. On a used(your case),should not be much because of the 'worn in' bearings that no longer have the assembly line bearing preload. You need to duplicate that 'feel' at re-assembly. When you're re-assembling and you feel you've reached the original markings(above posts),the should be no looseness(in/out-up/down-left/right) of the pinion. At that point I nudge/tighten a little more(about 1/32 of a turn) to get rid of the natural looseness that occurred from normal bearing wear-in. Too loose(not reaching the original position) will cause looseness and cause not normal gearset tooth wear and pinion bearing wear/failure. Too tight will cause too much preload on the worn-in bearing sets.
Be prepared for the high amount of wrench torque needed to remove the nut and to re-install the nut.
Yoke can be difficult to remove depending upon the slip/interference fit. Once off,clean the internal splines with a 'toothbrush size' wire brush to make re-assembly easier. I also 'rework' the seal surface of the yoke to try to get it back to factory surface finish. The highly polished surface were it rode at the seal is too smooth and I use 400/800 grit paper to get it back to original look. There was a seal change,make sure the new seal you got fits the yoke.
Since the rearend/back end of the car is gonna be up,I'd remove the wheels,unbolt the calipers from the brackets and let them hang off to the side and then remove the rotors. Removing these will allow you to get a true feel of the current rotational torque (by hand) required to turn the pinion,carrier,axles. On a used(your case),should not be much because of the 'worn in' bearings that no longer have the assembly line bearing preload. You need to duplicate that 'feel' at re-assembly. When you're re-assembling and you feel you've reached the original markings(above posts),the should be no looseness(in/out-up/down-left/right) of the pinion. At that point I nudge/tighten a little more(about 1/32 of a turn) to get rid of the natural looseness that occurred from normal bearing wear-in. Too loose(not reaching the original position) will cause looseness and cause not normal gearset tooth wear and pinion bearing wear/failure. Too tight will cause too much preload on the worn-in bearing sets.
Be prepared for the high amount of wrench torque needed to remove the nut and to re-install the nut.
05-26-2016, 05:07 PM
#14
working on a rearend under the car is annoying but sometimes that's the way it has to be.
Yoke can be difficult to remove depending upon the slip/interference fit. Once off,clean the internal splines with a 'toothbrush size' wire brush to make re-assembly easier. I also 'rework' the seal surface of the yoke to try to get it back to factory surface finish. The highly polished surface were it rode at the seal is too smooth and I use 400/800 grit paper to get it back to original look. There was a seal change,make sure the new seal you got fits the yoke.
Since the rearend/back end of the car is gonna be up,I'd remove the wheels,unbolt the calipers from the brackets and let them hang off to the side and then remove the rotors. Removing these will allow you to get a true feel of the current rotational torque (by hand) required to turn the pinion,carrier,axles. On a used(your case),should not be much because of the 'worn in' bearings that no longer have the assembly line bearing preload. You need to duplicate that 'feel' at re-assembly. When you're re-assembling and you feel you've reached the original markings(above posts),the should be no looseness(in/out-up/down-left/right) of the pinion. At that point I nudge/tighten a little more(about 1/32 of a turn) to get rid of the natural looseness that occurred from normal bearing wear-in. Too loose(not reaching the original position) will cause looseness and cause not normal gearset tooth wear and pinion bearing wear/failure. Too tight will cause too much preload on the worn-in bearing sets.
Be prepared for the high amount of wrench torque needed to remove the nut and to re-install the nut.
Yoke can be difficult to remove depending upon the slip/interference fit. Once off,clean the internal splines with a 'toothbrush size' wire brush to make re-assembly easier. I also 'rework' the seal surface of the yoke to try to get it back to factory surface finish. The highly polished surface were it rode at the seal is too smooth and I use 400/800 grit paper to get it back to original look. There was a seal change,make sure the new seal you got fits the yoke.
Since the rearend/back end of the car is gonna be up,I'd remove the wheels,unbolt the calipers from the brackets and let them hang off to the side and then remove the rotors. Removing these will allow you to get a true feel of the current rotational torque (by hand) required to turn the pinion,carrier,axles. On a used(your case),should not be much because of the 'worn in' bearings that no longer have the assembly line bearing preload. You need to duplicate that 'feel' at re-assembly. When you're re-assembling and you feel you've reached the original markings(above posts),the should be no looseness(in/out-up/down-left/right) of the pinion. At that point I nudge/tighten a little more(about 1/32 of a turn) to get rid of the natural looseness that occurred from normal bearing wear-in. Too loose(not reaching the original position) will cause looseness and cause not normal gearset tooth wear and pinion bearing wear/failure. Too tight will cause too much preload on the worn-in bearing sets.
Be prepared for the high amount of wrench torque needed to remove the nut and to re-install the nut.
Use an impact to break it loose BEFORE taking the diff out. It doesn't have to come completely off. But off enough that you can hold it and turn it with a ratchet. I have found best way is to set the parking brake to prevent the axles from rotating, but remember to release it so you can get the axles out. Now you can use an impact to snug it back down when everything is back together, but do not try to set your preload with it. That requires it to be able to turn.
PS, I have never had a diff failure doing any repairs or gear swaps this way.
