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Truck 10 bolt in an Fbody (yes we can)

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Old 01-31-2017, 10:03 AM   #61
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Got a little something in the works for that as well
Stop being a ****-tease BMR.

The OP responded to a post about fuel injectors like literally seven minutes after he posted here and has not posted anything at all since. Gonna shoot him a PM. Hopefully he's still alive.
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:29 PM   #62
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OP is here to save the day!!!
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:32 PM   #63
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It's held up well since we put it in in the summer. Took it to the track twice. No issues. Next summer it's slicks and spray. Its a little wider than the factory rear but it fits fine. Only problem is the 6 bolt hubs... (it's what we had laying around)
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:05 PM   #64
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Cool. Any pics of the car itself?

I IM'd the OP and woke him up! Thanks for checking back in.
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Old 01-31-2017, 11:05 PM   #65
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Those are the best I've got of the rear end in the car. It belongs to a friend of mine in Canada. I can ask him to take some more pictures of there's anything you need to see. We had to build our own torq arm too.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:36 AM   #66
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Would be nice to see some shots of it installed underneath the car. How much work was involved in it ?
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:11 PM   #67
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Would be nice to see some shots of it installed underneath the car. How much work was involved in it ?
This is actually my car, I can try and get some shots of it installed this weekend. It wasn't that bad labour wise, we actually put more effort into taking the 8.5 out of the truck in the scrap yard. As far as I recall we spent 3 nights working on it to get it ready to go under the car... so like 6 hours of work and 6 hours of drinking beer
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:37 PM   #68
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Ok. Well what about the springs, control arms etc. You must have had to fab that stuff up too, no?
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Old 02-02-2017, 09:13 PM   #69
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Actually, we simply took the control arm brackets and spring perches off the original rear, modified them to fit the larger diameter axle tube, welded them in place, and put it back in. We were able to use the stock components except the torque arm
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:50 AM   #70
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I just bit the bullet on a new spooled S60.. I figured," done once, done 8's " .. well I know at least the rear axle will be good for an 8 sec 1/4 pass.. the rest of the car will now have to play catch up to the over grown S60.

I read that in the day Chrysler had the dana 60 as a "fix" for 4 speed stick big block cars that were lucky to put out 500hp. Some would break dodge 8 3/4 rears. They never had the power or 60ft times back then many cars do these days.. so how overkill is the S60 really. People seem afraid of it like it'll weigh their car down 1/2 second in the 1/4. That is not the case. A spooled S60 from Strange with race brakes, is barely heavier than the stock 93-02 10 bolt with lt1 or ls1 stock brakes.. so how bad can it be?????

Strange S60 lightweight 35 spline spool - 13.2 lbs

Im sure a stock posi unit from the POS stock 10 bolt is heavier than that. So again, all the internet hype about the Dana 60 being so much overkill, I don't see it. At least not when it has a spool. SO I decided I will try one.

No I don't work for Strange. I've just being weighing up the differences between 9" or S60 and I don't see an S60 w/ spool vs 9" w/spool being any noticeable ET loss or gain if both are running the same length/spline axles and brakes.
I understand what you're getting at, and at the end of the day it only matters to what YOU expect, and how detail oriented you want to get regarding your car and its parts. While you say a clearly heavier rearend (parasitic loss also) is not a big deal, I've removed all kinds of stuff from my car in an effort to get lighter, and go faster. Ive even pulled wiring out of the car. So if Im pulling wires out of a car, and you're claiming your oversized rearend isnt slowing you down......I don't think we are gonna see eye to eye as we obviously see things very differently. At the end of the day, the car like mine, mod for mod, will run faster, and that's my goal. Would you notice on the street in a weekend warrior? Probably not, as long as Im not around or there is no timeslip to compare. Point being, do what makes you happy, but dont think others are silly for taking something one step further then you, cause the secret is, they may be taking EVERYTHING one step further then you, and that's where the differences start to show.
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Old 02-03-2017, 03:40 PM   #71
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I read over all the weight info in the past (from my own weights to various other reputable sources), and even read a back to back to back dyno comparison of 9, 12, s60. I can't remember everything exactly bc I quite frankly have too much info in my head and some gets lost over time. There is no doubt in my head that all are within reason of each other, weight wise and parasitic loss wise. 9 inch has the disadvantage due to the gear mesh is worse (but stronger), and s60 is THE heaviest out of the group we are talking about. 12 and 8.8 are favorable for their attributes. I mean I think they all have advantages/disadvantages. I have a Strange 12 bolt because I think I can make it live (smallest ring gear of the group). If I can, it will probably provide me with least drag (and no fabrication hassles of the 8.8) and its going to be the lightest other then a Fab9 which can beat it by a little bit. In retrospect, due to my frequent gear changes I wish I would have bought a 9 inch just for convenience, but other then that I actually think most times a 12 or 8.8 can get the job done on 99% of cars here. I know why most buy the s60 and thats because it is one of the cheapest, and biggest options, seems like a no brainer. In my eyes, if there is any way budget allows, if I'm gonna outgrow a 12/8.8, Id go straight to a 9 inch, an s60 wouldnt even be a consideration. But again, thats opinion. Also, I mean anything you can do to one like spool or lightweight brakes you can do to another to gain the same advantage. Your smaller rears like the 12/8.8 are capped in axle spline size due to the carrier bearings I.D. They simply only allow so much room to grow.
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Old 02-03-2017, 03:49 PM   #72
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Old 02-03-2017, 04:37 PM   #73
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Well if youre gonna fix all that **** why not just go with a 12 bolt or 8.8? Seems like if this was a viable it would have already been done.
The problem that I had with the 8.5 is, that once I got to a certain power level, it started eating ring and pinions. It did fine until my full weight car started into the 9s. I think it was a housing flex problem. Also, there are no really strong posi units for the 8.5 like there is for the S60 and 9".
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Old 02-03-2017, 04:56 PM   #74
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The problem that I had with the 8.5 is, that once I got to a certain power level, it started eating ring and pinions. It did fine until my full weight car started into the 9s. I think it was a housing flex problem. Also, there are no really strong posi units for the 8.5 like there is for the S60 and 9".
I'm not gonna comment on the other two recent poster's novels other than to say that this is a thread about getting an 8.5 in an F-body.

To speedtigger, I like what you've said. You didn't have problem until our heavy car hit 9's. Which sounds about right. And means this.... and 8.5 is significantly stronger than a 7.5 and is just fine for probably 90% of people in general. A 7.5 is a junk rear end. A 8.5 is a decent one with limitations. There hundreds of thousands of these things behind small and big block performance cars all over the country. Trucks too obviously. Ever since I bought my current Transam I've been curious about putting an 8.5 in it. I'm never going to run 10's even. I rarely go the track. It seems like an economical - power and weight and parasitic power loss - choice.

Let's get back on topic. The OP did a good job of getting a stronger rear end in his car on the cheap. It's interesting and fun. 6 lug, additional width, obviously not ideal. He knows that. Just doing it because he/they thought about and thought they could. And did. Probably while having fun.
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:22 PM   #75
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I've also been really considering the 8.5 I'm pretty good at fabbing up parts and stuff and 8.5s are all over the place for cheap here in Houston. Once I figure out what to do as far as axles the rest will be easy.
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:35 PM   #76
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I'm not gonna comment on the other two recent poster's novels other than to say that this is a thread about getting an 8.5 in an F-body.
Thats why its called a "discussion". Things do drift from time to time. As far as the comment of needing an 8.5 but never planning to run faster then 11s, well then you arent aware of what a properly put together 7.5 can handle. I've got so many on the road in the 10s and 11s it isnt even funny. They may be a tad fragile stock with 100+k miles on them but with a good set of (new) gears and proper (new) setup, they are much much better. Obviously you arent familiar with any of that though so......I'll just stop posting here in this thread and get ready for my TWO gear installs I have scheduled for this weekend
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:58 PM   #77
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Question for those that may know. If I get a 28 spline 8.5 carrier will my factory 28 spline axles work. Plan to weld my axle tubes onto the 8.5 if I go this route.
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Old 02-04-2017, 02:42 AM   #78
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and 8.5 is significantly stronger than a 7.5 and is just fine for probably 90% of people in general.
8.5" is absolutely a stronger rear, significantly so. It's much closer in strength to an 8.875" than it is to a 7.5". It has long been proven behind applications such as the Turbo Buick G-bodies, too bad it never made it to the LS1 cars. But,...

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A 7.5 is a junk rear end.
I wouldn't quite go that far. While it's true that the 7.5" is often overwhelmed in manual trans applications, this isn't so much the case for a properly setup auto car. Here's an interesting thread that might be an eye opener for you, regarding just how much a 7.5" can take:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ock-7-5-a.html

I've seen similar results locally with the 7.5, when I was regularly at the track with these cars. We had zero issues with several auto cars 60-footing in the 1.5x-1.7x range for years, unless they had uncontrolled wheel hop. Granted, the 1.5x cars had plenty of weight reduction, but there were several of us with full weight cars that did 1.6-1.7 for TONS of passes without rear issues.

There is a lot of truth to 01ssreda4's post below....

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As far as the comment of needing an 8.5 but never planning to run faster then 11s, well then you arent aware of what a properly put together 7.5 can handle. I've got so many on the road in the 10s and 11s it isnt even funny.
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Old 02-04-2017, 08:04 AM   #79
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Question for those that may know. If I get a 28 spline 8.5 carrier will my factory 28 spline axles work. Plan to weld my axle tubes onto the 8.5 if I go this route.
I don't see why not....
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Old 02-04-2017, 08:08 AM   #80
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GM guys around here know me as THE guy who can make a rear end live while being raced. Yes I have certain ways I like to set each one up, but I'm still self taught and my very first 7.5 I built hasn't broken yet. While everything mechanical has limits, if you call that rear junk, you're a keyboard mechanic nothing more, and not even a good one.
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