Replaced axle, seal and bearing.
01-11-2017, 07:45 PM
#1
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Replaced axle, seal and bearing. Just changed my bent rear passenger axle, seal and bearing. Wasn't that bad as far as working on this car goes. I want to post up some info for future reference.
The replacement kit i used was Dorman 630-122 which is for non traction control cars, either side(i only did one) .Comes with an axle, a seal, a bearing, 5 studs and nuts . Studs were not pressed in.
The axle look to be good quality though not as hefty as the stock piece. The bearing looked pretty much identical to stock except the lettering stamped on the front, though they both had usa on em.The seal looked fine as well.All in all a good kit.
Now on to the muddafudgin paddle bolt(the cross bolt that holds the metal thing that locates the axles in).The bolt on torsen and other cars are the same i think, 5/16. I tried a 12pt box end but only succeeded in rounding off the head. I tried sticking sockets in their but no room for the ratchet, even considered removing the carrier caps to get room but decided against it. I emptied all my tools looking for a 6pt 5/16 box wrench but to no avail. So if you are going to attempt this start off with a 6pt box wrench and use heat.Heat just below the head of the bolt. Don't be an idiot like me and heat the end of the bolt where there are no threads.I ended up buying a kit of wrenches from home depot that claimed to worked on a multitude of heads including rounded off 6pts. That wrench, a torch and quite a bit of force and the bolt was out and the paddle slid out like butta.
They make a replacement bolt readily available at parts stores Dorman 81048. Also available on amazon but was cheaper locally.
With the paddle out, caliper and rotor off, push the axle in and remove your c clip then remove your axle.
I rented oem 27033 slide hammer with oem 27129 bearing remover from autozone which made short work of both bearing and seal.
Oem 27119 was used to reinstall both the new bearing and seal.Put a little gear oil on the bearing and seal.
New axle was slid in c clip was replaced, paddle was slid in and the new bolt was used.No loctite was needed as the new bolt comes with it pre-applied. Couldn't find torque specs for the bolt(not that you can fit a torque wrench there anyway) so i just tightened till it wouldn't go anymore.
Hope this helps someone.
The replacement kit i used was Dorman 630-122 which is for non traction control cars, either side(i only did one) .Comes with an axle, a seal, a bearing, 5 studs and nuts . Studs were not pressed in.
The axle look to be good quality though not as hefty as the stock piece. The bearing looked pretty much identical to stock except the lettering stamped on the front, though they both had usa on em.The seal looked fine as well.All in all a good kit.
Now on to the muddafudgin paddle bolt(the cross bolt that holds the metal thing that locates the axles in).The bolt on torsen and other cars are the same i think, 5/16. I tried a 12pt box end but only succeeded in rounding off the head. I tried sticking sockets in their but no room for the ratchet, even considered removing the carrier caps to get room but decided against it. I emptied all my tools looking for a 6pt 5/16 box wrench but to no avail. So if you are going to attempt this start off with a 6pt box wrench and use heat.Heat just below the head of the bolt. Don't be an idiot like me and heat the end of the bolt where there are no threads.I ended up buying a kit of wrenches from home depot that claimed to worked on a multitude of heads including rounded off 6pts. That wrench, a torch and quite a bit of force and the bolt was out and the paddle slid out like butta.
They make a replacement bolt readily available at parts stores Dorman 81048. Also available on amazon but was cheaper locally.
With the paddle out, caliper and rotor off, push the axle in and remove your c clip then remove your axle.
I rented oem 27033 slide hammer with oem 27129 bearing remover from autozone which made short work of both bearing and seal.
Oem 27119 was used to reinstall both the new bearing and seal.Put a little gear oil on the bearing and seal.
New axle was slid in c clip was replaced, paddle was slid in and the new bolt was used.No loctite was needed as the new bolt comes with it pre-applied. Couldn't find torque specs for the bolt(not that you can fit a torque wrench there anyway) so i just tightened till it wouldn't go anymore.
Hope this helps someone.
01-11-2017, 08:42 PM
#2
Except for the paddle bolt removal,the rest seemed to go well for you.
A traction control CAN be also used for a non traction control car. They are dimensionally identical,length and location of bearing surface. difference is machining to accept a 4-channel reluctor ring.
A traction control CAN be also used for a non traction control car. They are dimensionally identical,length and location of bearing surface. difference is machining to accept a 4-channel reluctor ring.
01-12-2017, 12:51 AM
#3
I used one of those Dorman axle kits, made in India. Good enough for 6 cylinder but if you crank the puss out of your car and its 6 manual be careful with that axle in there. I wouldn't use the Dorman kit again.
11-29-2019, 05:00 PM
#4
Just changed my bent rear passenger axle, seal and bearing. Wasn't that bad as far as working on this car goes. I want to post up some info for future reference.
The replacement kit i used was Dorman 630-122 which is for non traction control cars, either side(i only did one) .Comes with an axle, a seal, a bearing, 5 studs and nuts . Studs were not pressed in.
The axle look to be good quality though not as hefty as the stock piece. The bearing looked pretty much identical to stock except the lettering stamped on the front, though they both had usa on em.The seal looked fine as well.All in all a good kit.
Now on to the muddafudgin paddle bolt(the cross bolt that holds the metal thing that locates the axles in).The bolt on torsen and other cars are the same i think, 5/16. I tried a 12pt box end but only succeeded in rounding off the head. I tried sticking sockets in their but no room for the ratchet, even considered removing the carrier caps to get room but decided against it. I emptied all my tools looking for a 6pt 5/16 box wrench but to no avail. So if you are going to attempt this start off with a 6pt box wrench and use heat.Heat just below the head of the bolt. Don't be an idiot like me and heat the end of the bolt where there are no threads.I ended up buying a kit of wrenches from home depot that claimed to worked on a multitude of heads including rounded off 6pts. That wrench, a torch and quite a bit of force and the bolt was out and the paddle slid out like butta.
They make a replacement bolt readily available at parts stores Dorman 81048. Also available on amazon but was cheaper locally.
With the paddle out, caliper and rotor off, push the axle in and remove your c clip then remove your axle.
I rented oem 27033 slide hammer with oem 27129 bearing remover from autozone which made short work of both bearing and seal.
Oem 27119 was used to reinstall both the new bearing and seal.Put a little gear oil on the bearing and seal.
New axle was slid in c clip was replaced, paddle was slid in and the new bolt was used.No loctite was needed as the new bolt comes with it pre-applied. Couldn't find torque specs for the bolt(not that you can fit a torque wrench there anyway) so i just tightened till it wouldn't go anymore.
Hope this helps someone.
The replacement kit i used was Dorman 630-122 which is for non traction control cars, either side(i only did one) .Comes with an axle, a seal, a bearing, 5 studs and nuts . Studs were not pressed in.
The axle look to be good quality though not as hefty as the stock piece. The bearing looked pretty much identical to stock except the lettering stamped on the front, though they both had usa on em.The seal looked fine as well.All in all a good kit.
Now on to the muddafudgin paddle bolt(the cross bolt that holds the metal thing that locates the axles in).The bolt on torsen and other cars are the same i think, 5/16. I tried a 12pt box end but only succeeded in rounding off the head. I tried sticking sockets in their but no room for the ratchet, even considered removing the carrier caps to get room but decided against it. I emptied all my tools looking for a 6pt 5/16 box wrench but to no avail. So if you are going to attempt this start off with a 6pt box wrench and use heat.Heat just below the head of the bolt. Don't be an idiot like me and heat the end of the bolt where there are no threads.I ended up buying a kit of wrenches from home depot that claimed to worked on a multitude of heads including rounded off 6pts. That wrench, a torch and quite a bit of force and the bolt was out and the paddle slid out like butta.
They make a replacement bolt readily available at parts stores Dorman 81048. Also available on amazon but was cheaper locally.
With the paddle out, caliper and rotor off, push the axle in and remove your c clip then remove your axle.
I rented oem 27033 slide hammer with oem 27129 bearing remover from autozone which made short work of both bearing and seal.
Oem 27119 was used to reinstall both the new bearing and seal.Put a little gear oil on the bearing and seal.
New axle was slid in c clip was replaced, paddle was slid in and the new bolt was used.No loctite was needed as the new bolt comes with it pre-applied. Couldn't find torque specs for the bolt(not that you can fit a torque wrench there anyway) so i just tightened till it wouldn't go anymore.
Hope this helps someone.
11-30-2019, 02:39 PM
#6
For those of you that don't know this trick, you can buy brake caliper bleeder wrenches that are 6 point wrenches with long handles. They work well in the application of removing the crosspin retainer bolt that your talking about. You can if you feel comfortable remove the passenger side main cap for the carrier and use a socket/ratchet, just retorque the bolts to spec when you put the cap back on. Easy peazy.
03-30-2020, 03:21 PM
#7
Thanks guys your knowledge just gave me the confidence of tackling this job without breaking a sweat. Im going to purchase that brake bleeder wrench to make things much easier taking out that cross bolt.
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06-03-2020, 06:15 PM
#8
I also agree the dorman axles are ok but for v8 would go with something better. Also if the axle was bad on the bearing arear and groved you need to clean out the housing tube that will be full of metal. If not all that debris will be contaminating you diff and all it's bearings. If it was a bent shaft then should not have to clean the tube.
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