Factory 10 bolt 2001 SS questions.
02-25-2017, 05:03 PM
#21
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I will be doing a lot more canyon carving than drag racing type driving so whatever I get needs to work well in the corners but I want fairly strong for if and when I do make an occasional hard launch.
You should see the roads out here, great fun for sports cars and motorcycles. I live way out of the city in the mountains and the twisties are everywhere out here.
02-26-2017, 10:28 AM
#25
This isn't the Aubun posi unit though and this gives me pause "10 Bolt Eaton Style Clutch Posi Unit". There are good reviews but what does "Eaton Style" mean?
I'm guessing a China made knock off which may or may not be fine, China made quality is all over the place. I may have to find out more about it, wonder if a true Eaton brand part is made here still?
I'm guessing a China made knock off which may or may not be fine, China made quality is all over the place. I may have to find out more about it, wonder if a true Eaton brand part is made here still?
02-26-2017, 11:37 AM
#26
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This isn't the Aubun posi unit though and this gives me pause "10 Bolt Eaton Style Clutch Posi Unit". There are good reviews but what does "Eaton Style" mean?
I'm guessing a China made knock off which may or may not be fine, China made quality is all over the place. I may have to find out more about it, wonder if a true Eaton brand part is made here still?
I'm guessing a China made knock off which may or may not be fine, China made quality is all over the place. I may have to find out more about it, wonder if a true Eaton brand part is made here still?
03-07-2017, 07:27 PM
#27
I wouldn't buy the Auburn, unbalanced piece of junk IMO. I'd get some thing that strong and will last that is BALANCED so you don't get vibrations at highway speeds. I bought a new Auburn, installed it and WALAAA constant rear vibrations that started around 45 mph and just got worse the faster I drove. The only change was the carrier. Had the carrier in for 2k miles and the cone clutch wear was REDICULES. Good Luck I went back to the Torsen, car is smooth as azz now.
03-07-2017, 11:18 PM
#28
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My experience has been very different from RockinWs6 on this particular issue. I've had no premature wear or vibration issues of any kind with the stock Auburn in my '98 or the aftermarket Auburn in my '71. I've been happier with them than the Torsens for sure.
03-08-2017, 12:56 AM
#29
The Auburn is way stronger for sure but my experience was terrible but it wasn't a OEM unit, I bought it from Summit I think. I believe when they supply OEM factory units more workmanship goes into the units (LIKE BALANCING) When I pulled it out for sure there were no signs of it being balanced in any way and the oil was full of metal from the cone clutches. Also with that unit in the car the car handled very stiff in the turns. Putting the Torsen back in solved all the issues. I never tested the Auburn with a torque wrench to see how hard the cone clutches were loaded but it must have been very high to effect the steering.
The Torsen is broken but its jammed up broken, so far I've been getting away with it. Last fbody was broken the same way and I never had trouble with it except its very very noisy. The axles are basicly locked up to each other. I also had a torsen in another fbody that broke open, only one drive axle working. Torsen is about worthless for any kind of real power. I'm good at getting power out of the engines so unfortunately the carriers take a beating. There are good carriers out there but you're talking 500 plus for a good one. If I have to change it again I'm buying the Eaton posi, its without a doubt the best one out there right now that I know of. Your opinion may vary.
The Torsen is broken but its jammed up broken, so far I've been getting away with it. Last fbody was broken the same way and I never had trouble with it except its very very noisy. The axles are basicly locked up to each other. I also had a torsen in another fbody that broke open, only one drive axle working. Torsen is about worthless for any kind of real power. I'm good at getting power out of the engines so unfortunately the carriers take a beating. There are good carriers out there but you're talking 500 plus for a good one. If I have to change it again I'm buying the Eaton posi, its without a doubt the best one out there right now that I know of. Your opinion may vary.
Last edited by RockinWs6; 03-08-2017 at 01:16 AM.
03-08-2017, 08:02 PM
#30
TrueTrac for the 10-bolt would be what I'd do if you need to replace the differential.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...a317/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...a317/overview/
03-09-2017, 03:33 AM
#31
TrueTrac for the 10-bolt would be what I'd do if you need to replace the differential.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...a317/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...a317/overview/
03-09-2017, 08:30 AM
#32
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True track is a junk Chinese posi. That being said I've owned one and so have lots of others and had good luck. But don't expect miracles from it, accept it for what it is.
03-09-2017, 05:56 PM
#34
I didn't know they were built there, the Eaton I thought were made in US. Guess its not the same carrier I know from past years. I should know better, everything today is over priced crap. FK it, put a spool in it and suffer the tire wear. That's all I had in my 68 Formula S Barracuda and that car was BAD AZZ, probably the nastiest car every come out of Detroit. I drove it on the street for years without any real trouble except it wore the tires badly and wouldn't turn LMAO.
03-09-2017, 06:34 PM
#35
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today is over priced . FK it, put a spool in it and suffer the tire wear. That's all I had in my 68 Formula S Barracuda and that car was BAD AZZ, probably the nastiest car every come out of Detroit. I drove it on the street for years without any real trouble except it wore the tires badly and wouldn't turn LMAO.
More confused now than when I started with this thread. lol
03-09-2017, 11:28 PM
#36
There is another Eaton with a clutch setup in it for sale someplace because about 8-10 years ago I was eyeballin it to put in one of my TA's. It a good carrier, If I can find it i'll post a link.
03-10-2017, 08:10 AM
#37
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/etn-19599-010 <This is what I would use. 500 bucks and worth every penny, much better than the Auburn or the TrueTrac IMO for a street car. The worm gear design in the TrueTrac is weaker than the Eaton Posi IMO. Plus when you rebuild it quickly and easily. If you break the TrueTrac its probably damaged beyond repair.
Here is the Eaton application guide http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ.../ct_128302.pdf
Here is the Eaton application guide http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ.../ct_128302.pdf
Last edited by RockinWs6; 03-10-2017 at 08:29 AM.
03-10-2017, 09:10 AM
#38
Could always put a spool in too? If you can drive it on the street with the wheels locked together. That'd probably be the strongest 10-bolt you could build.
And yes, TruTrac is Chinese. But it's a good differential for a street car. It's more of a "road race" type of differential that may be no better than the Auburn in terms of durability.
The best differential is the S-Trac or Wavetrac. Which is a similar design to the TruTrac. But they don't make for a 10-bolt.
And yes, TruTrac is Chinese. But it's a good differential for a street car. It's more of a "road race" type of differential that may be no better than the Auburn in terms of durability.
The best differential is the S-Trac or Wavetrac. Which is a similar design to the TruTrac. But they don't make for a 10-bolt.
03-10-2017, 09:27 AM
#39
I drove my 68 Barracuda around for years with a spool. Chopped the tires up badly and on twisty roads it was scary. Straight line it was killer and never broke.
OF COURSE a spool on the street is for limited use only!
OF COURSE a spool on the street is for limited use only!