Excessive play at pinion yoke?
#1
Excessive play at pinion yoke?
So for a while before I pulled my car apart I had a really loud clunk that occurred whenever I would shift unless I was really hammering on it. I pulled the motor and trans for my build but left the rear in the car. The other night I crawled underneath it and (with the parking brake set) rotated the pinion yoke by hand.
I found what feels like an excessive amount of play at the yoke. If I move it gently enough I can feel the backlash between the pinion and ring gear. I didn't measure it but it doesn't feel out of spec. However it still moves quite a bit beyond that. Anyone have any ideas what could cause this?
I found what feels like an excessive amount of play at the yoke. If I move it gently enough I can feel the backlash between the pinion and ring gear. I didn't measure it but it doesn't feel out of spec. However it still moves quite a bit beyond that. Anyone have any ideas what could cause this?
#2
Its completely normal, you are feeling the space between the gearing in the carrier. The ring gear turns the carrier and the carrier drives small gears that are attached to the axles. These small gears in the carrier make it possible for you to make turns so the axles can turn at different speeds. You are feeling the play in this gearing until the axles are loaded against them. This action is why your rear axle assembly is a Differential, it can drive the vehicle while the axles can turn at different speeds.
#6
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Feeling pinion play from the front always feels excessive. But you may be also feeling play in the posi unit, which may be increased due to age, and could be causing your clunk.
#7
If it doesn't move up and down then there is nothing to fear. I guess you are just describing the play in the backlash from the pinion and gears which is more than likely normal.
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#8
These Torsen diffs have a insane amount of moving parts. They clunk and clank terrible once they get mileage on them. I wouldn't worry about it unless you are beating the living crap out of it. If you heard mine clunk and clang and knock around turns you'd be looking for something broken. Been like that since about 20k miles....at 140k now still makin the same noises. Cars runs like a animal, so it gotta make some noises.
#9
These Torsen diffs have a insane amount of moving parts. They clunk and clank terrible once they get mileage on them. I wouldn't worry about it unless you are beating the living crap out of it. If you heard mine clunk and clang and knock around turns you'd be looking for something broken. Been like that since about 20k miles....at 140k now still makin the same noises. Cars runs like a animal, so it gotta make some noises.
#10
Well the stock Torsen carrier is not going to take any abuse at 450hp. So forget about that, I'd replace the entire rear with a ford 8.8 or if you want something you will never break get a Dana 60. The stock torsen is very loose and will clank and bang and make knocking noises. The only good thing is they are light weight and well balanced. Good for a stock AUTOMATIC daily driver and that's where it ends no matter what anyone tells you. My wifes TA is completely stock auto and she broke it on the 1-2 shift racing a Mustang around 38k miles. Backlash is the least of your worries, the play in the carrier gears plus the small size = carnage quickly.
#11
One thing you can do to make your rear live longer is use the heaviest gear oil you can buy. Red line makes a 75-250 that will allow your rear to survive quite a bit longer by lowering shock loads. Shock loads are what takes these carriers apart.
I personally use 50% Amsoil severe gear 75-140 mixed with 50% Valvoline Durablend 75-140. Had good luck at stock hp levels with this mix.
I personally use 50% Amsoil severe gear 75-140 mixed with 50% Valvoline Durablend 75-140. Had good luck at stock hp levels with this mix.