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Gen 4 8.8 rearend, anybody tried this?

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Old 06-04-2017, 05:34 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Cole Train View Post
i have an 8.8 hybrid in mine and it works flawless. i did have issues with my BMR torque arm bumping the tunnel. That was my fault when i bolted it up i used the wrong bolt holes for the arm. Moved it to the correct position and it has been perfect since. Rear is dead quiet, takes abuse like no 10 bolt ever will. I have 31 spline axles in mine as well. The guy that fabs up the 8.8 in mine runs single digits as well as several others doing so and even yanking the tires off the ground with them and they are holding up fine. Mine is a street car and barely ever track driven so i don't need it to be more than what it is

Who did your 8.8 if i may ask?
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:49 PM   #22
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A lot can be said about pride, like pride in knowing you did it correctly the first time and didn't waste your ***time*** or money.
This is the crux of this. Most seem to discount or imply not get the TIME element and stupidly only account for parts cost. I've been guilty of this myself in my younger days. You don't magic the damn hardware on there, someone has to spend time installing and perhaps, fitting, customizing, redoing, etc. Either you pay for someone else's time or you spend your own. You'd be well advised to know PRECISELY what your time is worth. If you have a job, regardless of how you get paid, you can calculate what you are worth per hour. You can offset that if you really enjoy doing the work as a hobby but at some point, reality encroaches. What is your time worth? Only when you know that, can you make a good decision.

Never mind the time these companies spend to get a product to market, that costs money too, but is a separate topic.
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:16 AM   #23
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I don't have the time to do it myself, but a '98-up Crown Vic housing has a robust bolt boss cast in housing just above and to the rear of the pinion. They use it to locate a large watts link pivot stud, looks like a great central place for attaching the upper part of a factory style torque arm bracket...


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Old 06-15-2017, 09:47 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Cole Train View Post
Mine is a street car and barely ever track driven so i don't need it to be more than what it is
This is the crux of it and what is missing in today's offerings. There is no good solution from vendors today for the most likely use case. For a once in a while track car, mostly street car, there has to be a better answer than a bullet proof rear end required for drag racing @$3k. This is why people will continue to try to figure out the 8.8 route because there isn't a $1500 street only option on the market. If there was, I would suspect most people would line up.
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:51 AM   #25
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This is the crux of it and what is missing in today's offerings. There is no good solution from vendors today for the most likely use case. For a once in a while track car, mostly street car, there has to be a better answer than a bullet proof rear end required for drag racing @$3k. This is why people will continue to try to figure out the 8.8 route because there isn't a $1500 street only option on the market. If there was, I would suspect most people would line up.
I totally agree! A really well built 10 bolt can fit this bill to some extent for pretty cheap as well. Although it's nothing compared to the 8.8 overall
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Old 06-15-2017, 10:22 AM   #26
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The thing of it is the person investing $1500 into a 8.8 and still ending up with stock stuff that doesn't need a full on built "drag" rearend could build their 10-bolt with good housing ends for a bigger bearing, aftermarket axles, aftermarket differential, aftermarket ring and pinion, welded axle tubes, and a braced rear differential cover and have better than what they are putting into their 8.8.

We build 8.8's here every day for customers with different applications and that is what it takes for them to survive in your average vehicle and it should be the same when putting a 8.8 into a F-Body.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:35 PM   #27
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Its identical is every way to a 12 bolt, in case you didnt realize.
Not really, the 8.8 setup is lighter and has slightly less parasitic drag than the 12-bolt. Which if you are setting your car up for handling, any unsprung weight reduction is a benefit.

If street driven and/or drag racing, then yeah, I would just go with a 12-bolt.
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Old 06-17-2017, 04:00 PM   #28
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I don't know where people are getting their numbers from but it does not cost $1500 to build an 8.8 for an fbody. I have $300 in mine including the hiltsy ta mount and new bearings and seals. You can get 8.8s for cheap on Craigslist, then get your ta mount and that's it.
Also it took me a whopping 3hrs to build the 8.8 for my car, it's very very easy if you have any common sense.
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Old 06-17-2017, 04:09 PM   #29
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FWIW the gear-set in the 8.8 is whats sold in most of the 9" rears these days, a 9" axles the gears actually measure 8.8... Depending on the ratio there is some float in it.. 9" housing is lighter than a 8.8 but the 8.8 assembles easier to different axle configurations. In the 4x4 Jeep world the Explorer 8.8 is one of the more common axles used to replace the flexi flyer Dana 35 that many came with. Of course my Jeep only needs spring perches and shock mounts.. No torque arm drama to deal with..
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:49 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by kgkern01 View Post
Not really, the 8.8 setup is lighter and has slightly less parasitic drag than the 12-bolt. Which if you are setting your car up for handling, any unsprung weight reduction is a benefit.

If street driven and/or drag racing, then yeah, I would just go with a 12-bolt.
Heh, no. They literally use the exact same parts!
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Old 06-18-2017, 11:23 AM   #31
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He's talking about unsprung weight. Some of them do share bearings, axle spline counts, and all share the same hypoid offset, but the overall housings don't all weigh the same.

Mustang/T-bird 8.8's have 2-3/4" dia axle tubes with appx .185" wall
Crown Vic's have 3" tubes with appx .155" wall
F100/F150/Explorer has 3-1/4" dia tubes with appx .185" wall

The '98-up Crown Vic is my personal favorite 8.8 housing core. For my builds they typically weigh in at about 63lbs with caps/bolts, brackets, and 9" ends. Under 70lbs limit with padding/shrinkwrap, allowing me to ship them thru USPS (postal).
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Old 06-18-2017, 04:36 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by merim123 View Post
This is the crux of it and what is missing in today's offerings. There is no good solution from vendors today for the most likely use case. For a once in a while track car, mostly street car, there has to be a better answer than a bullet proof rear end required for drag racing @$3k. This is why people will continue to try to figure out the 8.8 route because there isn't a $1500 street only option on the market. If there was, I would suspect most people would line up.

This is precisely my problem. I will be making about 600hp at the wheels and a 3-4000 rearend is ridiculous in that application. It seems on par with using a billet crank in a 600hp engine. No need to kill an ant with a sledgehammer. And I just don't have that kind of money to throw at it. I see mustangs (and had one) making this kind of power using aftermarket axles and doing just fine. That is why I asked the question initially. The only thing stopping me is welding on that cast housing, I am just not sure about it.
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Old 06-18-2017, 04:43 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by weedburner View Post
He's talking about unsprung weight. Some of them do share bearings, axle spline counts, and all share the same hypoid offset, but the overall housings don't all weigh the same.

Mustang/T-bird 8.8's have 2-3/4" dia axle tubes with appx .185" wall
Crown Vic's have 3" tubes with appx .155" wall
F100/F150/Explorer has 3-1/4" dia tubes with appx .185" wall

The '98-up Crown Vic is my personal favorite 8.8 housing core. For my builds they typically weigh in at about 63lbs with caps/bolts, brackets, and 9" ends. Under 70lbs limit with padding/shrinkwrap, allowing me to ship them thru USPS (postal).
sounds like you've built a few? hadn't heard about the crown vic being the way to go. Mainly because the hiltsy setup primarily for that explorer housing I think, but I could be wrong.
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Old 06-18-2017, 05:27 PM   #34
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Short of paying the bigger bucks for a real rear end the 8.8 hybrid is the most cost effective axle you can get most have LSD UNITS in the Explorer which are noted on a tag bolted to the housing cover. You can find 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10 geared UNITS which is on the same tag..
3 L 73 = 3.73 gear with locker
3 73= 3.73 w/o locker
I built my first 8.8 on a budget grand total was 280.00 my current 8.8 is right at 900.00 due to New HD 31 spline axles, Girdle, bearings and gear install.
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:58 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by MY_2K_Z View Post
I don't know where people are getting their numbers from but it does not cost $1500 to build an 8.8 for an fbody. I have $300 in mine including the hiltsy ta mount and new bearings and seals. You can get 8.8s for cheap on Craigslist, then get your ta mount and that's it.
Also it took me a whopping 3hrs to build the 8.8 for my car, it's very very easy if you have any common sense.
what parts are you counting? Did you reuse the stock tubes? you didn't upgrade the bearing housings? what is your out of pocket list I'm curious.

A rear will cost 150-350 alone. Hiltsy 40-60, bearings seals 40-60 and new axles $$$$ so hard to see how you pulled this off, unless there is a configuration you are leaving out.

With the Hiltsy you have to disassemble to weld so then there is the install kit $100 etc.

Seeking to learn...
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:37 PM   #36
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I reused my axles. Got new wheel bearings and seals as well as pinion seal. The 8.8 I bought came with an extra set of 10 bolt tubes. Then the hiltsy mount. It came with 3.55 gears and posi.
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