pillarpod

I had a stamped Moser 9in installed with a moser adjustable TA. The wheel and tire combo I am using is 285-35-19. I am having problems getting my wheels center of the wheel well. The first photo is how I got the car back. The second photo is after the alignment. Its better but not great IMO.






When I picked it up from the alignment he said I could adjust it more with my lower control arms. So today I did that and got it where I wanted it. (moved lower control arms only). Started up the car and there was some vibrations just idling, (assuming it was binding?) Backed it out of the driveway and had very very little steering up front. Kept backing it off till I had full steering back which I ended up back to my starting point after the alignment. What is the best way to go about this?

pillarpod

also have Moser lower control arm bracket with 4 holes and is in the lowest one

pillarpod

Maybe I'm asking the wrong question. Those of you that have a 9, did it sit back further after words?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Lots of times aftermarket rears do this. Sorry Im confused, are your lower arms themselves adjustable in length?

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

From reading this I take it you have adjustable lower control arms and the shop that did the install left it go out the door with the rear that far back. You shouldn't of picked up the car until the corrected it.

When you moved the rear forward, the torque arm probably made contact with the floor of the car, which is why you got the vibration you were feeling. There are two spots where the torque arm generally makes contact with the floor, and all it takes to gain clearance is to shove a pry bar up between the torque arm and the floor and pry the floor up.




Make sure you do not install the upper torque arm to bracket bolt as shown in the picture. The bolt needs to be turned around for adequate clearance with the chassis floor.



What driveshaft are you using with the Moser 9 inch? Bob

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Aftermarket rearends do not move the rear end towards the back of the vehicle, they are all built to simulate stock rearends, the LCA are the only thing that control where the wheels sit in the fenderwell. Bob nailed it as I have seen this before, the shop did not want the bracket to make contact with the floor so they moved the rearend as far back as possible so this wouldn't happen.

With any stamped nine inch the torque arm bracket will make contact with the floor as there is no way around this. Move the wheels forward and massage the floor until you have clearance. Having it back that far puts a lot of stress on the heim joints as they may of been moved back past their limitation and could of bent or broke.

pillarpod

I went out and looked at the bolts, they are liked the ones you pictured. So I need to turn them around. I am running a 3in aluminum drive shaft that was made by a local shop.

Yes using On-car Adjustable Control Arms- Poly/Roto-Joint

So, just need to do some love tapping to the floor...My next question, how much is this going to effect my drive shaft? Length wise, the measurement was pulled when the rear was pushed back.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

If they measured for the driveshaft with the rear end pushed back at least 3/4 to 1/2 inch then yes your driveshaft could be bottoming out once you push the rear end forward.

As for how much clearance that all depends on ones ride height. I've had vehicles that we have had to fix the floor because the vehicle was lowered and it put a hole in the floor pan.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Note: To get these measurements the rearend needs to be in the loaded position, as in when the vehicle is being driven. DO NOT take measurements if the rear is hanging down loose. 45.25 is what we normally come up with for a 9 inch rear. Bob

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You're partially correct and partially incorrect. I have no clue how a strange 12 bolt fits as ordered, as I installed spoon lower arm relo brackets before it was installed. Mine looked exactly like the OPs. These were weld in an done correctly. It was bad enough that BMR lower arms had to be adjust fully tight, and your arms wouldn't work and caused me to redrill the holes in the bracket. Call it stranges fault, call it spoons fault, call it you and bmrs fault, I chalked it up to stacking tolerances and created a solution. So, you are now aware, that sometimes aftermarket rears can sit off center. Just because you manufacturer rearends does not mean you've seen and installed every possible combination of parts.

That being said, OP I see your arms are adjustable, adjust them, if that's not enough redrill your holes on the rear end side to the rear by one inch, center your wheels and recheck pinion angle.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Granted your rearend does have some age and things may have changed over time however the top hole in the LCA bracket is fixtured to sit in the same place as a stock 10-bolt. As for relocation brackets there is an arch built in the bottom holes so all you have to do is raise and lower the LCA'S without readjusting them.

It is that way so they know stock control arms will work as everything at least with our product is designed to be the same as stock and work with all stock items. The fixture that locates everything on our fabricated nine inches attaches to a stock 10-bolt as far as location of the LCA brackets and PHB bracket.

Granted to install atleast a weld on relocation bracket you have to install them correctly by taking the time and making sure the arch is in-line once fully welded. With anything bolt on you are at the mercy of the company to make sure they figured that out properly.

However there is a fine line as pinion angle and ride height will also come into play if you have to extend or shrink the heim joint as most items are based off a vehicle that is 100% stock with all factory settings.

We might not have installed every combination however we have plenty of customers with scenarios and questions we have to work through together every day just like the OP is going through. Camaros are the worse especially trying to fit a 28" tire you are moving the rear end backwards in the fender well from stock so it does not rub upfront.

pillarpod

I pulled a 46 1/16th

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Is that with the rear moved towards the back of the wheelwell? Bob

pillarpod

Yes, in my 1st post, 2nd picture is how its sitting now, when measurement was pulled.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

If you are referring to this pic, it is still to far back as your wheel is not centered. Bob

pillarpod

I know. When I did center the wheels, I lost all steering in the front. I couldn't even turn the wheels to back out of the driveway. That photo there is as far forward it can go. If I pull the rear forward I start to lose steering.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

You have to ask yourself, why is that? I would center the wheels, then with the weight on the rear, find out where the torque arm (or anything else) is binding at. You can place jack stands under the rear, just don't have the rear hanging down as you won't know where it is binding at. Bob

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

I'm baffled to what may be stopping the wheels from turning by just moving the wheels forward. I've seen the torque arms make contact with the floor while using a stamped nine inch but have never came across anyone mentioning stopping steering.

Like mentioning before if your driveshaft was built while the wheels were that far back and you put the wheels back were they belong your driveshaft will be bottoming out in the transmission.