za355tx

iTrader: (108)

Hey guys. I am going to replace the cast yoke on my S60 with a chromoly one and I had a quick question about it. Since the pinion preload is set by Strange and there is no crush sleeve used I should be able to just take the nut and washer off and pull the current yoke...and then put the new one on and reinstall the washer and nut (with threadlocker of course) and taighten the nut to the 250ft/lbs they recommend. Am I right or am I missing something?

Thanks guys

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Theoretically that should work. But if it reproduces the exact same amount of pinion preload its hard to say. Are you sure they tightened it to 250?

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Yes, according to Strange Engineering. Its a straight swap unless the pinion seal need replacing. Be aware that you will need a puller to remove the existing yoke, they don't just slide off. Hope this help.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

That's something I will check for piece of mind for sure. Strange says 25-30 inch/lbs. Yes the 250 number is straight from Strange.

I'm hoping that since the rear end literally has less than 2 miles on it and no more than 35mph...I'm hoping it comes off fairly easily. If not no big deal I can handle it.

Thanks for the info and I will get one ordered and see how it goes.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

you cant measure the drag without disassembling the rear end which it sounds like you are trying to avoid.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

...True that...I got ahead of myself a little bit there. At this point I am not interested in taking the rear apart so I guess it's good that all the feedback I've gotten so far says a straight swap is alright. In any case we will see.

erickk120

I replaced my yoke couple of days ago, the old yoke had some minor groove which was enough to make it leak. I have a solid spacer so does that mean I have to recheck the preload since its a new yoke? I torqued it as spec 130 ft lb. Not trying to hijack just thought I would ask since we are all in this topic.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You cant check preload without the rear being disassembled. The preload spec is for the front pinion gear and bearing ONLY, not everything else in the housing including axles, brakes dragging etc. If you have a solid spacer, and you torque it to the same value each time, preload stays about the same. But you have to know what it was torqued to before, because changing the torque can change preload dramatically. Doesnt seem like it would but it does.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

To answer the poster's question again, yes it's a simple swap. Remove the existing yoke out with a puller, check the seal, lube the pinion with a little oil, slide in the new chromoly yoke, don't forget the washer, red locktite the nut and torque to 250-300 ft/lbs. DONE!

Modchevelle

iTrader: (9)

I agree, With a Dana and a solid sleave the pinion drag is based on the pinion shims. I use to make a mark in the nut and pinion shaft to indicated a reference point for original torque.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

I certainly hope it goes that smoothly. I have the yoke and HD cap kit on the way. I will post back after I'm done just to give my input on the job.

clinebarger

Shouldn't have any issues doing that. I do have to question the need for a chromoly yoke on a Dana 60. Factory cast yokes are VERY strong. I use factory GM Van 1350 yokes on cars deep in the 8's with a Brake......We aren't talking 10/12 bolt 1310/3R **** here??

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Another note for the poster, theres a 1/4" to 1/2" I believe difference between the S series 1350 yoke vs. the chromoly series 1350 yoke. The latter being longer in length. Take that into account on the length of the driveshaft.

Launch

For anyone else who wants to swap to a chrome moly yoke and your driveshaft doesn't have any more room to move, the Mark Williams CM dana 60 yoke is the stock length, 3.00" long. That's what I used. They sell their special u-joint retainers for it also.

As for the preload, as already said, the bearing preload is set by shims, so the torque of the pinion nut shouldn't affect the bearing preload as long as it is tight. 250 ft/lbs with some red Loctite should be good to go.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

So something I did not take into consideration...what is the best way to lock the axles to get the pinion nut off? I would like to do this with the rear out of the car so I have more room and leverage to break loose the nut and retighten it but I need to lock the rear to do it. Haven't been able to think of a good way to do that. Also thanks guys for the info.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

The use of an impact wrench is needed to remove the pinion nut. Then as mentioned, you will need a puller to remove the yoke. After that, you're home free.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

What is the best way to keep the diff from spinning while using an impact to get the nut off? And then when I tighten the pinion nut as well? I'm trying to do this with the rear end out in the open so I have more room/leverage.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

I believe an impact wrench with enough torque will loosen and remove the pinion nut, even with the wheels off. Heres another option....
With the rear end out of the car, set the rear end on a pair of jack stands. Mount the wheels/tires back on, remove jack stands and set tires back down on the ground with chucks. Place a jack stand in front of pinion yoke housing and you're ready to remove and install pinion yoke. Hope this little common sense help.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

That's pretty much the only decent idea I had thought of too, I just didn't know if there was a more simple answer I was missing. Thanks man I'll see how it goes.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

Alright I'm in the middle of the swap now and have a question. The new yoke does not want to go all the way in very easily. I have not torqued it down but just by hand it needs another 3/8 of an inch. Do I just need to torque it down to finish snugging it up? I actually took it off and put the cast yoke back on just to see the difference and it was the same way...a little from being snugged up...before I go cranking on it I just want to be sure I'm not about to mess up my rear end. Thanks guys.