DANSBIRD

iTrader: (2)

I got the same late last year. It's been a lot of fun.



+1 on having a 4 channel setup.


(BTW MidwestChassis2, check your PMs for pictures of those backing plates)

Tang2

Unfortunately I've been out of town all week, so all I've had time to do since I returned last night was put the car up on stands to get ready for the swap. I'm going to start working on it Friday night or Saturday.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

I've got a different, larger version of those race ramps. Pricey but really nice to have. I found it hard to pull the trigger on them but glad I did.

Tang2

They are awesome! I can't believe how light they are, but you can tell they are capable of handling the weight. I'm much more confident under the car on those than with the cheaper plastic rhino ramps.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

i trip codes. not trying to start any issues, but im not sure how mwc can say they have no issues with 4 channel cars. countless threads weather its a 12 bolt 9 inch or s60 of 4 channel cars saying **** you and tossing lights like its nothing. i believe mine is a wheel speed sensor range code. i called them to ask, they said that all of the 4 channels they install have working abs. i don't doubt them that around town it works, but at highway speeds it doesn't (on most cars id say). i bought mine from them fully assembled. i supplied the backing plates and wheel speed sensors, they used new reluctors. i had no abs issues with the 10 bolt up to 140+mph. i toss in the 9 inch and around 80 mph 1 sensor stops working. the other is fine tho. since it thinks its slipping, if i hit the brakes above 80 mph, the pedal pulses because the abs is activating and i maybe have 15% braking power. scary the first time i found that out. i paid a gm tech an hour to ride around with me while we watched the tech 2. basically after 80 one wheel stays there while the other sensor continues to read and gain speed. have tried 4 different sensors all with the same results on the same wheel. we both came to the conclusion its not wiring, abs module, or sensor related. it just doesn't wanna read above 80 for some reason on that side. im goona have to do an abs delete unfortunately, wasting the $250+ i spent for the reluctors and the 4 channel abs mod. i had the same issue with a different car with the s60 i installed in that car, except worse where i couldn't go above 30 without getting lights . i didn't mean to ramble on, i just know that after saying i had abs lights, people would begin commenting saying well did you try this, did you try that? are you still on stock wheels (yes).

either way, i think they make an awesome rear end, well worth the money and know what they are doing. had i known i would have 4 channel issues again, i still would have opted to spend my money with them simply because of their quality and reputation. never do u see people having fitment issues, never do people have tq arm issues, and most importantly, how many failures have you guys seen on here? i just would have not went 4 channel and just had 0 channel abs lol. i wish they weren't a 12 hour drive. i would drive it there and be like "i guess i have a unicorn, because my abs don't work above 80" and see if they could get it to work. if they could offer me some type of guarantee we can get it to work or we don't charge you for the time we spent looking at it then id do it. never would i expect that so i just deal with not having abs i guess.

to the op, i went with the 3.89s as well and i think its the perfect ratio for a 4-600 hp fbody. you won't regret it.

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

Yes three people I know trip codes all the time on their 4 channel rears. I figured maybe they fixed the problem. I will ask Andy at Diablo as well

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

rofl andy. when i was an amateur i let him touch my car. after seeing him impact my flywheel "ON" i stopped seeing him.
(maybe im wrong but i swore i saw him do this) his tunes are ok i guess. my car didn't blow up after the cam swap lol

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

some people get lucky. my only thought was the aftermarket reluctor wheels could be a culprit. figuring maybe their tolerances aren't tight or the fact that they are painted and the stockers are not maybe does something. my advice for anyone attempting 4 channel on a non 10 bolt is to use oe reluctors.

Tang2

I got the rear in the car yesterday. It was a very smooth process overall, even doing it 100% by myself in my garage without a lift. The only "modification" I had to make was to enlarge the shock mount holes a bit. They were a little too small for the bolt on the Koni SA's I have.

I didn't take great pictures, but snapped a few as it was going in. I'll get a few better ones of the finished product after the driveshaft arrives. The measurement for that was surprisingly short. I was 44 7/8" from the end of the trans case to the face of the yolk on the rear (measurement X on the attached guide from PST). It was actually a stockish 44 1/4" from the tailshaft seal to the face of the yolk. I'm glad I measured!

I still have to install the driveshaft, bleed the brakes, and I'm going to replace the fuel filter and do an oil change while it's up. Looking forward to beginning the break-in process.

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

His tune sucked on my car among other things. He will never touch it. I do know he knows many people with that rear though including him

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

yea the tune survived but the idle was ridiculously rich. like really bad but i kinda just let it go. o and half my valve seals were in the pan on my first oil change after he did the cam swap. no big deal

codyvette

iTrader: (24)

Is the reluctor setup on this rear available to purchase separate. I have a 9" with a Strange center section that way as built by the Powel Brothers in Houston but there is no reluctor.

j-mart32

iTrader: (4)

how long did they quote you on the build? interested in them but I have seen a few horror stories on build time

Tang2

I'd imagine they'd sell you that setup, but to be honest I didn't even realize they had something like that until the rear arrived. Last I knew they were still putting a hole in the back of the housing. I'd definitely call them up to inquire about it.

They were in the middle of hiring 2-3 additional people to help with a few things when I ordered. With that they were hesitant to give me a build time at first. I went in expecting 3 months based on some of the stories I saw. I was blown away to have it delivered in less than 2 months. I made a handful of changes along the way that I figured would make the wait even longer as well. I did pay in full up front, and may have just gotten a little lucky with where I fell on the powder coating and building schedules. I think they're averaging better times with the new staff either way though.

Don't let the wait time throw you off. This rear is ridiculously awesome, and I would have waited another month easily.

j-mart32

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the info. I'm ok with 6-8 weeks, but I saw some horror stories of people being quoted weeks, and then not getting it for 6-8 months. Does paying in full upfront actually make a difference or is that something you just happened to do? Id hate to pay 4k and then wait 6 months, would make it even worse lol.

Tang2

MWC has said that paying in full is the only way to ensure all ordering and production starts right away. If you only give them half up front it may only be enough to account for the labor needed to manufacture the housing. Then more money would be needed before they can order the axles or center section. If you have the ability to pay up front your money is safe with them. Then they can order the center and axles at the same time they begin fabricating the housing. There's definitely an advantage to that. If not, you just want to make sure you ask enough questions to understand how far the deposits will take you before additional funds are required to take the next steps. Communication both ways is needed to ensure a smooth process in an order of this type. They were great on the phone, and in most cases replied to my emails with a few hours.

j-mart32

iTrader: (4)

thanks buddy I appreciate it. Ill give them a call and see what they have to say!

Tang2

Just a quick note on my progress and feedback for documentation purposes. I completed the five heat cycles. The first three were perfect; the car rode smooth, there was no gear noise, and no leaks. On the fourth drive I noticed a very slight howl out of the gears on acceleration, and on bumps I could tell metal to metal contact was occurring somewhere. These symptoms continued on the final heat cycle as well. Following the last drive I put it back up and noticed a couple of things; 1) The top torque arm mount has made contact with the frame cross-member above the fuel tank 2) The housing is making contact with the over-axle section of my Corsa catback. 3) my left rear wheel is about a quarter inch further back in the wheel opening than the right. 4) The car was sitting up at least 1/2" higher on the drivers side rear than the passenger side. Here is what I've done with each concern thus far:

1) Nothing. I'm not sure if I'm going to BFH or cut that cross-member. I'm thinking I'll find an alternative solution to it...either moving the rear back further or stiffening up the springs using airbags
2) I made a slight adjustment to the exhaust, but I'm not sure I had enough room to completely fix that problem, so I may need to visit an exhaust shop
3) I took off the left rear LCA and shortened it by a quarter inch. This centered the wheel, which now matches the right side. I used the factory LCA's to set the length to stock on the new ones, so I'm 90% sure they were both identically sized upon install. I could have messed that up, however, but the advantage of the adjustable LCA's is that it doesn't matter if it's the rear, body, or my initial adjustment...it can all be fixed
4) I had a similar problem with the stock rear, as many others have mentioned, but it was more exaggerated now. I think I may have torqued the panhard while the suspension was unloaded, so I loosened it, had my wife wit in the car while the suspension was loaded, and then re-torqed the bar.

I have not driven it since these changes were made, but I will this afternoon. I'll be sure to follow up with my results.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

beautiful rear you got there. I am curious on that race ramp. how are you supporting the rear of the car with the race ramps up front?
OT-I concur with a couple others, andy is a horrible mechanic but that's another story for another thread.

Tang2

Thanks, MWC makes an awesome product. Once I get these last few bugs worked out it'll be perfect. Feels so good to drive around with it back there...even though my wife thinks I'm an idiot for trading a cushy ride for one that is slightly more race car like

I used the Race Ramps on the front and then put the rear up on jackstands. That allowed me to load and unload the rear suspension as needed to facilitate the swap. Once everything was bolted up, I was able to put the front and back on the race ramps to make it easy to do the rest. They are awesome and totally worth the money.