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2000 z28 8.8 Rear End Install

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Old 07-04-2018, 09:52 PM
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Default 2000 z28 8.8 Rear End Install


I’ve got a 2000 z28 that I’m wanting to put a narrowed 8.8 in. I honestly am pretty clueless about rear ends so I need some help here. The rear end is narrowed to 46 inches from inside hub to inside hub. Will it work? Also what do I need to do this swap? I’m getting a good deal on the rear end. Thanks
Old 07-05-2018, 03:53 AM
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Who built this 8.8?
Old 07-05-2018, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ndevin25

I’ve got a 2000 z28 that I’m wanting to put a narrowed 8.8 in. I honestly am pretty clueless about rear ends so I need some help here. The rear end is narrowed to 46 inches from inside hub to inside hub. Will it work? Also what do I need to do this swap? I’m getting a good deal on the rear end. Thanks
A stock Fbody 10 bolt is about 59-60 inches flange to flange. I guess it depends on the mods you plan to make. If you want to leave it essentially stock but with an upgraded rear end such as a Moser or Strange, in the end you wont save any money.

Fourteen inches IMO is a huge difference in width. I don't think your stock sway bar will fit, panhard bar won't fit, upper panhard bar wont fit, shock mounts will be off, spring perches probably off. Lower control arm mount probably off too. But perhaps I am wrong and other will chime in and correct.

Get under you car with a tape measure and subtract 7 inches on each side and then look at all of the mounts you have to account for.

I had my Moser narrowed an inch on each side, some go as much as 2 inches in order to fit a larger tire and wheel. Just an inch on each side meant I had to install spacers on the lugs because my stock wheels mounted an inch on each side into the wheel well even though the Centerline drag wheels fit like stock because they only had 6.5 inches of offset. I also had to remove the bump stops to keep the inside of the stock wheels from hitting the bump stops. To counter that one has to get wheels wheel with less inside offset. IMO when driving on the street you don't want your rear end wheels and tires to be narrower than the front.
Old 07-05-2018, 03:39 PM
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Unless you're going full race, full custom 4 link or ladder bar suspension, don't use that 8.8. It's way to narrow, my s60 is narrowed 3inches per side, another 4, you wont have room to mount all the stock mounts... We're all about saving a buck here but all that rear would be good for in your case would be the center section. Then you will need a hiltsey mount for the torque arm, axle tubes, correct axles, suspension mounts, backing plates a competent welder. What kind of car and chassis is that rear coming out of??
Old 07-05-2018, 05:44 PM
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Yeah probably gonna stay away from that fear end. What do you guys recommend that would be budget friendly? Not really looking to put down a ton of horsepower but I want something reliable. The ole 10 bolt us starting to wine at 180k.
Old 07-05-2018, 05:56 PM
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How much power are you looking to make, and what trans?
Old 07-05-2018, 11:14 PM
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In the future I doubt I’ll be making more than 6-700 horse. 4l60e now but soon to be 4l80e.
Old 07-06-2018, 03:57 AM
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  • With it being an auto you could probably get away with a good used 12 bolt, but at 600-700 hp you might wanna just do a S60 or 9" just to be really safe
Old 07-06-2018, 06:37 AM
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I'd go with the s60 as I'm a little partial to them, just installed one in my car and I love it, fit just like stock. I'd keep an eye out for a used one, they can be had for not too bad, even new they are pretty reasonable. A 9" is great if you potentially have a ton of money to blow, and unless you go with I believe a MWC 9, you would need a custom torque arm, I think, and they also have issues hitting the floor.



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