SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

Starting stock and beginning to mod at what HP/TQ level would a 12-b step up be necessary? Automatic transmission. Very specifically I want to know if I were to get the basic STS turbo with 5lbs. (I think it makes 400-411rwhp?), would I need to swap to one of the Strange or Moser 12 bolts?

I have searched and I did ask the question in an older thread.

project98LS1

It doesnt matter what power level your at man, it can still break. People have broken them with bone stock cars, they are just notoriously weak systems. If you gonna be launching hard, especially with 400+ hp, theres no way that stocker is gonna last. You can get around it for a while by not launching hard. If your looking to go to the strip a lot I say you need to get it but i guess it's not a must if your just gonna jack around on the street with it...but if you do just be careful man. My .02

WS6 Kid

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to be putting 315/35 Falkens on the rear of my car and am wondering the same thing,(how long the stocker will last) With 315's and a mostly stock motor it probably still won't last long, huh? What does it cost for the 12-bolt with 4.10s anyway?

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

thas a relative term.. 10 bolts are crap... in all there wisdom gm put the 10 instead of 12 in. a 10b will be fine as long as its driven normally..but then again who here drives "normally"?

1999Z28

theres a guy on a local forum that runs a 4400 converter...cuts 1.52 60fts, on stock 10 bolt with 4.10's. Its a cam only car that runs 11.1's. If that helps

ss rally red

iTrader: (8)

This has been proven over & over, weak rear ends? yes but some of them have put up with a LOT of abuse If your a M6 and make a lot of passes the prognosis is not good for a long life

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

I was looking around earlier and the base price for a Moser 12 was around $2000 and the Strange 12 around $2400. I looked at Moser's homepage and looked on Tbyrne for the Strange. The prices go up a little when you want the posi-diff. and whatever other options they had, but I don't think there's a difference cost-wise on which gear size you want.

SouthFL.02.SS

Strange sets up their gears correctly from the factory. The money you save by going with Moser may be spent paying someone to set up you gears again, as Moser is known for not setting them up correctly from the factory (it's hit or miss).

Check out Billingsley------->
They have nice rear end packages.

Anyhow, given your car is A4 and FI does not require short gears, stick with your stocker 'till it breaks- it may hold up fine.

black02-z28

iTrader: (8)

It is not so much the HP level as the launches that kills it. If you have 1000 nd spin all the way outta the hole it will take it. Mine had 345 RWHP and took a crap after a 1.50 60 ft. So stock LS1's can and do break 10 bolts. I planned on doing the rear after my heads and cam, but I ended up taking the money to do the rear and trns instead. If your rear holds, you are lucky!

Ed

Cokeroker

iTrader: (9)

cut a 1.59 60 ' on 325/50R15 ET Drag Radials spraying out of the hole. I knew it was coming, but mine took a big dump. Driveshaft threw a weight. RIng and Pinion shredded. Twisted torque arm and mount. Bent an axle

lots to do for me

coker

Mike98WS6

iTrader: (5)

Your better off saving for a 12 bolt. I'm going to go with a strange as soon as I pay off some bills.

99SSinOC

iTrader: (4)

If your running an Auto that isn't stalled to high, without some drag radials or some Et's, you should be fine with your setup... it's once you get full boltons, cam, stall, sticky tires... that you should be worried. I have a 383rwhp/372rwtq 99SS with stock verter and stock rear with 275/40/17 Nittos on it. I can slam on the gas and it lays about 1 foot of rubber and im gone. As long as there is rubber layed, you should be fine. It's once there is NO rubber laid (Et streets without much hp) that you will snap the lil fugger. I suggest doing engine mods before you do your rear end... then once you get to the HP/Stall of the rear breaking.... take it til it breaks . Mine's been fine and I stall my car up to a wapping... 1500rpm! *sigh*... But I won't change my rear til it breaks. I've heard of freak cars with 600rwhp (the h/c/i/FI SS at MTI when I was there..) playing on the street with their stock rears and not having any problems. It's like an old horse... it might not last another 10 minutes, but until then, ride the **** out of it

Race Car Driver

I'm still runnin the stock diff in my SS, with a 150 shot, but I only do rolling start races. In any case, a 9-inch Ford is my future.

QuickSilver

iTrader: (22)

Well so far I havnt broken my 10 bolt. I do have a girdle on it tho. I have a H/C car with nitrous. On motor ive went 12.0's and on the jiuce ive went 11.0's Leaving on the spray right outa the hole. Ive cut a 1.59 60' on the juice. This is with a 2.73 gear also though, the small gear is stronger than say a 3.73-4.11 I also run on ET-Streets at 15 psi.
A 9" is in the near future though. Hope this helps.
Josh

John02SS

iTrader: (47)

My car is making 445/410 and is on BFG drags. Rear has ARP stud kit, TA Girdle, Genuine GM 3.73's, and a solid pinion spacer. Car is a 6 spd and see very brutal power shifts. So far so good, but it doesn't go from a dig. I think that would kill it.

kcshaner

315 drag nittos, 373 AOD and 560rwhp, still going