A4 guys, what rearend parts have you broken?
#1
A4 guys, what rearend parts have you broken?
If you have an A4 and have busted a 10-bolt, I'd like to know what part actually broke, what gears you were running, what tires, and what size stall.
I believe the factory 10 bolt can be made to hold semi-high levels of HP without grendading as long as the right parts are used and you're not doing a 6k clutch dump. Now I know everyone is going to say "Don't put money into the stock rear, you can't polish a turd", but my stock rear has almost 100,000 miles on it with over 150 passes and many low 1.6 60' and have only once removed the cover to change the fluid.
In my opinion, if I can beef up the 10 bolt for let's say $500, then in theory I can break 4 rear ends before I pay for 12 bolt or 9 inch. My car has run mid 11's with a budget setup and I'll be damned if I change that now
I believe the factory 10 bolt can be made to hold semi-high levels of HP without grendading as long as the right parts are used and you're not doing a 6k clutch dump. Now I know everyone is going to say "Don't put money into the stock rear, you can't polish a turd", but my stock rear has almost 100,000 miles on it with over 150 passes and many low 1.6 60' and have only once removed the cover to change the fluid.
In my opinion, if I can beef up the 10 bolt for let's say $500, then in theory I can break 4 rear ends before I pay for 12 bolt or 9 inch. My car has run mid 11's with a budget setup and I'll be damned if I change that now
#4
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With 3.23's or 3.42's w/stall converter and even a full slick, they usually hold up pretty well. 3.73's are still OK, but the 4.10's are the weakest point. Broken or twisted stock axles are also common w/hard hitting converter and good tires. There are some real fast automatic LS1 cars cutting some unbelievably good short times w/built 10 bolts....They're far from bulletproof, but you can make one live if you build it right. (Talking A4 cars only.) WJ
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There are a few types of 10 bolts (at the moment I can think of the 7.5 and 8.5), the 7.5" found in F-Body's is the smallest and considered the weakest. However, I have seen people get around this. To make a better understanding when I got my first look at a 7.5 bare housing I immediately thought junk, the strum part of the housing (covers axle shafts, also called the "banjo") was merely tach welded to the center section of the housing. I do not know if there all like this, but that will immediately equate to flexing under heavy torque load. I have a friend that was building a mud truck that decided on this 7.5" 10 bolt for his mud drag truck, because A. there cheap since people think there junk, and B. apparently every lb. matters. He trussed both the upper and lower part of the housing (welded not bolt on $hit), girdle, detroit locker (posi in it was fried go figure ), and 4.10 gears (he ran a 4.10 rear and 3.73 front, reknowned mud setup and it'd take me an hour to explain why). His held and is still holding up to a 600+hp alky v8, he'll take it on the street and give it a nice burp to show how he can pull the front tires, and a few times he's taken it to the track which I was not there to witness. Not saying if you did this your building a bulletproof axle, but I have heard many a time there weakpoint is the housing flexing, even caught a fella on here saying the same thing. At all costs your still building a 28 spline axle but I definitely think they can be built to take more punishment than the respect there given especially after watching it plant those 39.5 Boggers. I called him a few days ago to get the run down on how much it cost him to build that axle and he told me around 1100 dollars and some time into welding the truss on. If I get a chance to pass by his house, I'll steal some pictures of him launching and pulling the front tires over beer bottles.
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A4, stock converter, 2.73's, Yokohama AS430's 245/50R16's.......killed ring and pinion after 20K miles.....GM rebuilt entire rear end and replaced posi unit. 30K later posi unit burns out....clutches worn to the point that it will no longer grip.
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#8
So even cutting low 1.6s (got LTs and ORY since my last track visit) I should be ok with a full bolt on stock internal A4 car, mild 2800 stall on a bone stock 3.23 rear on BFG or M/T ET drag radials?
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Originally Posted by LS1LT1
So even cutting low 1.6s (got LTs and ORY since my last track visit) I should be ok with a full bolt on stock internal A4 car, mild 2800 stall on a bone stock 3.23 rear on BFG or M/T ET drag radials?
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Just hit 120K miles yesterday. Had the converter since about 46K mile-and it hits like a hammer. Will absolutely fry 245/50 16s (stock rims). No probs w/rear yet, although I thought I did a while back. Have changed the fluid about 4 times. I guess those 2.73 gears help that a lot.
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I never broke the stock 3.23 but i replaced them with richmond 3.73 they lasted about 40 1.60 60ft then broke, replaced them with rich. 4.10 they lasted about 20 1.60 60ft and broke, again rich 4.10 and they broke the 3rd lauch, the gears where installed right in fact richmond replaced the first 2 sets and refunded me my money on the 3rd set after checking the wear pattern, I then bought the Motive's 3.73 and now have at least 150 1.58 - 1.60 60ft on them and knock on wood no problems but i did install a girdle with the motives
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the first time my rear end was worked on the carrier bearing walked out and etched the housing(thats was the dealer told me) second the gears weren't lining up right and moaned. axles were bented which caused the wheel bearing to fry. now it has a rear out of a 2002 collectors edition (i wonder if the rear was crap design and the workers in canada knew their jobs were going to be cut why would they put more tlc in last run of cars?) and the rear still makes noise. the car has 91000 miles on it and now i wonder if i should just try to trade her in on a younger ws.6?