Tru-Trac not for Drag Racing?
#2
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The deal with it??? Trucks and motorhomes are substantially heavier than your Camaro. So if the TrueTrac can handle moving a 6,000-lb truck up hills, thru mud, and over rocks and stuff, it's good enough for your 3,400-lb F-body.
#4
Originally Posted by Ric
The deal with it??? Trucks and motorhomes are substantially heavier than your Camaro. So if the TrueTrac can handle moving a 6,000-lb truck up hills, thru mud, and over rocks and stuff, it's good enough for your 3,400-lb F-body.
EDIT: Found the right brochure - never mind:
http://www.tractech.com/docs/DetroitTruetrac04.pdf
Last edited by mako22; 10-06-2005 at 08:05 AM.
#6
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The best overall unit for drag racing is by far a spool. But it won't allow for different wheel speeds around corners. The TrueTrac is more or less a beefier version of the Torsen limited-slip. It's plenty strong enough for drag racing, so long as you ain't running single digits. If strength concerns you, yet you want decent driveability, get a Detroit Locker. It won't be as friendly as the TrueTrac, but it's tolerable, and STOUT.
#7
thanks guys, I'm going with the Tru-Trac - as you can see I'm not putting down a ton of power but I am doing one-leggers after only 20 passes so I want to make sure I'm getting the best. I heard the order of preference (least to best) was Torsen, Auburn, Eaton , TruTrac
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#12
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One of the perceived problems is that the unit is not preloaded because it is torque activated. But, many of the older Moroso brute strength and Eaton diffs were used without preload springs without any problems. Another concern is the fine meshing teeth in the diff. They just recently(last couple of years) started marketing them for street/strip use, they used to be marketed for use in front axles to help them tuen better but still have a limited slip. They havent had any real problems with them in drag applications that I have heard of, so they must be doing pretty well. They even make a preloaded 9" version. I like the way they drive on the street, you almost dont even know its there even in the rain. I would still think the Eaton is stronger(no proof, just experience), but the Trutrac is deffinetly stronger than stock.
#13
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I don't know about the eaton being stronger than the trutrac,plenty of
eatons have bit the dust in fbody 12bolt land.Spyder gears exploding on the
33 spline stuff ,cases cracking by the pins etc.
eatons have bit the dust in fbody 12bolt land.Spyder gears exploding on the
33 spline stuff ,cases cracking by the pins etc.
#14
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Let me begin by saying we carry a lot of different brands of differntials....
ARB Air Locker
Auburn Gear
Dana Powr-Lok
Dana Trac-Lok
Detroit Locker
Eaton Posi
Eaton E-Locker
Electrac
E-Z Locker
Lock Right
No-Slip
Performance Locker
PG Power Brute
PG Power-Lok
PG Track-Lok
PG Ultralte Locker
Traction Lok
Truetrac
Zexel Torsen
Clearly there is a lot of misunderstanding about differentials here.
Helical diffs are the cat's *** for smoothness and torque biasing. But if you are drag racing hard, you really should have a more normal type of differential. Why? Well, helical diffs use gears only inside, those gears try and spead with big loads and put stress on the cases. Add a lot of traction and power the shocking loads go way up and that's not what helical diff's do best. The result is cracked carrier cases, and I've seen that happen more than once on cars without a ton of power..... The question is simple, what do you want the diff to do best?
I run a T2R in my car because I autocross and do open track events. I *WOULD NOT* run that diff if I was a big drag racer, and I'm a huge believer in helical units. The idea of comparing a truck to a f-body and saying if it's good enough for them it's fine for us is just crazy. The trucks have bigger carriers to start with, and aren't exactly subject to someone looking for a better 60' time on ET streets......
You guys want to talk about diffs? Call someone who knows how they work and carries ALL the popular brands (I could care less what you buy as long as it works right because I carry so many). I can and will take the time to explain the differences and the pro's and con's of each to you. That's my job.
ARB Air Locker
Auburn Gear
Dana Powr-Lok
Dana Trac-Lok
Detroit Locker
Eaton Posi
Eaton E-Locker
Electrac
E-Z Locker
Lock Right
No-Slip
Performance Locker
PG Power Brute
PG Power-Lok
PG Track-Lok
PG Ultralte Locker
Traction Lok
Truetrac
Zexel Torsen
Clearly there is a lot of misunderstanding about differentials here.
Helical diffs are the cat's *** for smoothness and torque biasing. But if you are drag racing hard, you really should have a more normal type of differential. Why? Well, helical diffs use gears only inside, those gears try and spead with big loads and put stress on the cases. Add a lot of traction and power the shocking loads go way up and that's not what helical diff's do best. The result is cracked carrier cases, and I've seen that happen more than once on cars without a ton of power..... The question is simple, what do you want the diff to do best?
I run a T2R in my car because I autocross and do open track events. I *WOULD NOT* run that diff if I was a big drag racer, and I'm a huge believer in helical units. The idea of comparing a truck to a f-body and saying if it's good enough for them it's fine for us is just crazy. The trucks have bigger carriers to start with, and aren't exactly subject to someone looking for a better 60' time on ET streets......
You guys want to talk about diffs? Call someone who knows how they work and carries ALL the popular brands (I could care less what you buy as long as it works right because I carry so many). I can and will take the time to explain the differences and the pro's and con's of each to you. That's my job.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#15
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I would still think the Eaton is stronger(no proof, just experience), but the Trutrac is deffinetly stronger than stock.
#17
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Interesting. I'll have to call you Sam.
I recently upgraded power. The T2R is still holding steady. But I can feel the rear taking a real beating now with the extra power. I think it will go soon.
If I blow the rear I'll probably go 9" with the Tru-trac for autox. Euginio_SS is running one on his road race car that I think Sam you helped build ( the rear 9").
I recently upgraded power. The T2R is still holding steady. But I can feel the rear taking a real beating now with the extra power. I think it will go soon.
If I blow the rear I'll probably go 9" with the Tru-trac for autox. Euginio_SS is running one on his road race car that I think Sam you helped build ( the rear 9").
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Originally Posted by Viper
Interesting. I'll have to call you Sam.
I recently upgraded power. The T2R is still holding steady. But I can feel the rear taking a real beating now with the extra power. I think it will go soon.
If I blow the rear I'll probably go 9" with the Tru-trac for autox. Euginio_SS is running one on his road race car that I think Sam you helped build ( the rear 9").
I recently upgraded power. The T2R is still holding steady. But I can feel the rear taking a real beating now with the extra power. I think it will go soon.
If I blow the rear I'll probably go 9" with the Tru-trac for autox. Euginio_SS is running one on his road race car that I think Sam you helped build ( the rear 9").
#20
Originally Posted by CatchinZs
Do they have a version that eliminates c-clips?
I just thought about that and haven't seen one yet.
I just thought about that and haven't seen one yet.