z28C4maro82z

iTrader: (33)

I want to build my 10 bolt as the title says.

I don't want to loose the driveability of the stock 10 bolt. I've heard many things about 9" and 12 bolts and how they really lose the street feel. They whine and clunk and make all kinds of annoying noise

Based on this I was doing a little research on building 10 bolts.

I know I need a set of forged axles, auburn differential, (373's for the upgrade), and a rear cover.

Do I need anything else? I don't know if I need anything else. Also with that being said, how much would all that cost?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

12-bolt and 9" will be heavier, more unsprung weight
may be what you cal "street feel". But clunking and
noise are from setup and choice of center section I
think.

Not on your list is a hard pinion spacer (Ratech) and
you might as well just replace all of the other bearings
etc. with something like a master rebuild kit since all
of the pieces are coming out.

But I think you want to check more carefully your
assumptions because by the time you're done, it's
at least halfway to the price of a tougher piece.

z28C4maro82z

iTrader: (33)

Understood, but I hear that you lose some power going with a 12 bolt or 9" and also it just never feels the same. I have driven in my friends 12 bolt car, and there is the whine from the rear that I just can't stand.

jqhawk

iTrader: (5)

My moser 12 bolt does not whine or clunk. Nothing you can do to make the tiny ring and pinion survive real power. MY OPINION.

z28C4maro82z

iTrader: (33)

I got a buddy who's on here tomss99 and he has only gone through 1 10 bolt I believe

He built the crap out of it and he's pushing a heads cam car so he must be doing something right..

PS He's an m6 too

jqhawk

iTrader: (5)

I still think you are on borrowed time. It will get you at the worst time. I have no trailer and I don't want to be stranded far from home with a broke rearend. When it goes it will not go quietly. Good luck.

z28C4maro82z

iTrader: (33)

I'm asking for advice on how to build it, not have my dreams of running 11's on my 10 bolt shot down lol. I don't have the money for a 12 bolt either as I'm on an 8.00 an hour job haha. 10 bolt upgrade seems best for me now.

Also gotta do more research but any advice

HOSS

iTrader: (12)

i just broke my 3rd 10 bolt in 6 months

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

u have an a4 man u will be fine. just preload the rear at the line and it will hold well into the tens. i have many friends that have and are still doing it. solid pinion spacer is a must for reliabilty and reducing deflection. may want to look into a richmond gear set as they are very strong but they tend to be noisier.

blacktransam

iTrader: (13)

damn me too.. HAHA

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

detroit locker ( from sumitt) 529.00
ta cover and stud kit 175.00
moser axles 315.00
install kit - bearings 100.00
weld tubes 5.00
oil 5.00
-------
1159.00

also on this diff running QA1 adjustable shocks @ 350.00
lackwood traction action lower control arms @ 189.00
air bags @ 79.00
1 1/16 stablizar bar @ 115.00
M/T 275/40/17 et street radials @ 350.00
home made tork arm/ body mount @ 250.00
------------
1343.00

running 3.23's, 3.73's going in monday @ 200.00

looks like about 2750.00 total
in rear of this thing, ""still do not know how long it will last"
( car is more expecnce than women) AND yes
i HAVE A redhead to keep up also

>do not know how long this thing will last,<
today pull 1.64 @ 60 ft., 1/4 @ > "" OOOO, this is JUST a streer car, naw-naw my best a'nt in the 12's""

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

Running 11s in an A4 with a 10 bolt should be no sweat, I went 10s with it completly stock. This season I threw in some Moser axles, cover and stud kit, along with some Heavy shock proof oil. The thing has taken a 225 shot damn near out of the hole.

I would say start with the basics like the cover and stud kit, pinion spacer. Absolutly make sure that your car does not have any wheel hop. That'll kill it the quickest.

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

you can get moser axles for abotu $250...not a bad place to start.i myself been thinking about firming up my 10 bolt..but i decided iwill just not race her that often until ic an get a 12 bolt or a good 9"..i plan on putting down abtou 480 hp ish...so that stock 10 bolt isnt gonna do nothing for me..besides..w/ just bolt ons i grenaded an auburn limited diff after 1300 miles of break in...and thats no nos/turbo/supercharger/blow..just n/a/ and that diff gave up..

HartAttack

iTrader: (8)

is it worth it to beef up the 10bolt rather than just jumping to a 12bolt or 9in?

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

In an M6 car, no. With an A4, I wouldn't spend anymore than $5-600 on the stock rear. For many road racers, they are worth beefing up though.

1ORANGEWS6

I've had 6 1.50 60' launches spraying off the line with my 100 shot and my 10 bolt(Auburn Pro posi) lived. I now have TA girtle and a stud kit and welded tubes. I don't have any passes on the new stuff yet.

1ORANGEWS6

[QUOTE=GM Muscle]The thing has taken a 225 shot damn near out of the hole.QUOTE]

When do you spray after your launch?

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

[QUOTE=1ORANGEWS6]Generally it gets a 50 shot out of the hole and another 175 just as it's trasfering weight. There have been some passes where it got both before I even fully came off the brake.

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

get a rear cover and lower control arms so it doesnt wheel hop.

my 10 bolt yesterday was flawless on 28x10.5 et drags
10.10
10.07
10.06
9.98
3820# raceweight...auto...60's were 1.55---1.51---1.49---1.48

Main thing is you HAVE to control wheelhop...lower control arms help...if you are lowered get relocation brackets for the LCAs If you had a 6 speed I'd tell you to not waste your time. Oh...I have 3.23 gears ...you get to 3.73+ gears and you may still break the gears

glennhl

I also like the idea of building a 10 bolt because it's lighter and more efficient. I haven't broken my 10 bolt yet, but I'm only using street tires and cutting 2.0's.