Ohmyneck

My rear is starting to make all kinds of road noise. When I cut the wheel hard to the right and get the weight off the back right tire, the noise stops until the car straightens back out and it starts making the noise again. SO I think I have a rear right bearing going out, and a shop quoted me $350 to replace both bearings. BUT he told me there was no way to build up a a stock 10-bolt to make it any stronger. Only Mods I have are LT's, texas-speed ture duals, SLP air lid, and a Nitrous kit with a 100 shot. Really not worth spending the 2K for a new rear since I dont make a whole lot of HP so i want to build up the stock 10 to make in a little stonger but I'm not sure which direction to take. Any advice would b greatly appreciated!

Car is an 01 M6 with 47K miles

chicane

$350 to do what !! ?? Uh.... no.

A simple teardown and inspection shouldnt cost you more than $50.00. That should cover removing the rear cover and pulling the axles to look at the axles and the respective bearing surfaces...... re-assembly with new oil and friction modifier.

Maybe he just threw the $350 nunber out there to cover the worst case senario of replacing the axles and axle bearings. Thats about what I get for doing just that.

But anyway.......

A 7.5" is a 7.5". Its still a S-10 (mini) truck differential. You can throw all the money at it that you make in the rest of your life..... but it still isnt going to get any stronger.

1999 SS

iTrader: (3)

weld the shafts to the center section put on an aluminum TA diff cover with the bolts in the middle and you'd be surprised how much stronger it will make it. granted it will still be a 7.5 10 bolt but with 3.42's or 3.73's its deffinatly gonna be much stronger than stock.
this is what i did before i got my 12 bolt and i can tell you it made a big difference. and if i remember it should all cost including the gear swap and bearings just over a grand.

RaNsOm

iTrader: (2)

Ive seen bone stock cars with drag radials grenade the 10bolt. Dont kid yourself. Your 100shot is more than enough to blow that puny rear sky high.

Ohmyneck

Even on street tires on a easy launch? n Seriously I'm not building the car for a track car.. Just my weekend cruisin car, with 1-2 track trips a year. Thats why I cant see spending 2k+ on a rear end if I cant justify the cost. With a TA gridel and 4:10 gears what do you think? Just a waste of my time?

98 SNAKE EATER

Here's a video of me blowing my 10-Bolt again


http://98snakeeater.ls2.com/10boltblowsup.wmv



My car is basically stock and it happened on a 1-2 powershift after an easy launch


I went through countless rebuilds and a replacement under warranty, but I've had it....

12 Bolt is on its way


Rick



Aztek T/A WS7 & 70 RAM AIR IV T/A
Moderator @ LS2, FAST LS1, FUELSLUT,
The F-Body Hideout, LS1Turd & ChopperForums

ski23

iTrader: (21)

im runnin stock 10 bolt with 53k miles on it. put 4.10 gears in at 47k miles(last spring) and i run bfg drag radials all time. i launch hard on the street, knock on wood, but no trouble yet. i launch between 2k-2500 at the strip.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

It seems to be the luck of the draw as to whether your 10 bolt lasts thru launches and powershifts, or grenades the first time you hammer it, but, there are some things you can do to help keep it alive, welding the axle tubes, adding a T/A girdle, and some other things, might want to read the sticky for some other helpful tips.
IMO it's not going to be worth the money to mess with the 10 bolt, when even a stock M6 is capable of grenading it (nevermind one with a 100 shot)
BTW the original 10 bolt was built to go under 4 cyl Vegas/Monzas.
WTF was GM thinking putting it behind a 300+hp car

Ohmyneck

Hmm Well thanks for everyone's advice I really think I'll waste my time spending money to try and make the 10-bolt rear end do what I want it to do. SO for now, i'll get this one fixed to tie me over, and start saving up for the infamous 12-bolt. Thanks again

Brandon

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

with just a set of gears and headers and lid I snapped a axel with less than 1,000 miles on the car way back before I did H&C

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Wheel bearings are pretty easy to replace. Just pull the diff cover, pull the paddle block, pull the brakes, push in the axles, remove the C clips from inside the diff. Pry out the old seals with a flat head screwdriver. Autozone will rent you the slide hammer and axle bearing removal tool kit. Pound out the bearings with the slide hammer. Reinstall bearings by gently tapping them in and seating them using a large socket, or possibly an old axle bearing. Reinstall everything and fill with just shy of 2qts of rear fluid and 1/2 bottle of friction modifier. The wheels bearings and seals should only cost around 30 bucks or so.

While youre in there, you can also pull the diff itself and check the carrier bearings. Those need to be uplled and pressed back on with a press if indeed theyre shot.

BrandonDrecksage

iTrader: (1)

'you shouldn't think of it as wasting time. with some better gears and sticky tires..you'll be able to hook up 100x better...which means everything. Hell...if we could cut a 1.6 or 1.7 in these cars stock they would run mid 12s stock. I didn't a lid and exhaust..my next mod is a 12bolt. might as well build the car up so i'm not constantly breaking ****..and i only run my car 2-3 times a year.