12 bolt on a stock fbody is it recommended
09-04-2006, 07:47 PM
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12 bolt on a stock fbody is it recommended is it possible to just put a 12 bolt on my stock T/A im gageing intrest since the body shop screwed me and put a used 6cylinder differential in my car and its been like that for 2 years. Can it be done and should i do it ?. These ******** got 9k from my insurance to repair it and they gave me used ****. So what do u all think?
09-04-2006, 07:55 PM
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well its getting to that since they arent returning my calls this was done almost 2 and a half years ago and the paint job they did is already chipping and the door they put on my passenger side blows *** so yea im just thinking like i find the parts and have them order it. It sure would be nice to get a 12 bolt for their screw up. They are a bunch of idiots so its my turn to screw them
09-04-2006, 08:22 PM
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Yeah you can do it. Might be a little overkill, like wearing a helmet to walk your dog, but it's better than breaking it unexpectedly on the street.
V6 rearends are the same as V8s, with the exception that not all of them came with a limited slip differential. And I would be really shocked if an insurance company actually used a brand new rear end...it just doesn't work out that way. It's hard enough to get them to use new GM body parts let alone new mechanical parts.
V6 rearends are the same as V8s, with the exception that not all of them came with a limited slip differential. And I would be really shocked if an insurance company actually used a brand new rear end...it just doesn't work out that way. It's hard enough to get them to use new GM body parts let alone new mechanical parts.
09-04-2006, 08:24 PM
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yea but they didnt even atleaste put a rear end off a 8 and the gearing is diffrent and the sway bar is off the 6 so it just about the ammount of money they spent and the half *** job that was done so if it can be done im gonna make them go for the 12 bolt.
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09-04-2006, 08:52 PM
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Honestly, no. I went through something similar on my WS6. Had the rear-end "fixed" to quell the noise of a bad set up at a dealership(bought the car from a Chrysler dealer).(reason I didn't take it back to the dealer was that I figured they had there chance to get it right and didn't). The guy who did the repair charged me $800. After a week the noise was worse than before. I let this guy try to fix his mistake. This time he farmed the work out to someone else. He called me to inform me the axle tube was bent and that I would be needing a new rear-end. He sourced one from a quote unquote 2002 C.E. with 6000 miles that had suffered a interior fire. The new (to me) rear has worked faithfully since. And even more screwed up is that the total rear-end cost me $400. So I informed the Better Business Bureau and they could not do very much as this guy, although he ran a shop, was not a licensed business. And even if he was it would be difficult to collect on the original $800 I paid. All in all I would suggest trying to contact you local BBB. Answer all the questions they ask and follow up with them. Good luck.
09-04-2006, 09:09 PM
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well this shop is a big buisness here and they have been screwing alot of customers from waht i hear.http://www.sames.net/global.htm thats their web page and well im gonna try and do as much as i can. I just hope that something can get done
09-05-2006, 05:13 PM
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i got quoted from my local shop that a Moser 12 bolt would run me 2345.00 plus 100 for shipping what do u all think anyone think ill be able to pull this off ? seeing as how u cant find a new T/A 10 bolt for sale.
09-05-2006, 06:11 PM
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First, I`d advise you to not count your chickens before they hatch. Second, you need to contact your insurance agent and read through your policy. Insurance companies only allow enough money to get the job done for the shop doing the work. That means the shop has to use used parts and whatever else they can find to save money to meet the insurance quote. I wouldn`t put the blame on the shop. I would put the blame on the insurance company. I am not trying to take up for the shop because I got screwed last year on the rearend in my truck. I wound up spending $2000 dollars for a junk yard rearend after paying the shop to rebuild my original rearend with a new Tru-Trac and new bearings and gears. I burnt up 3 sets of gears because the shop couldn`t set them up. Luckily, I was able to drive off with a junk yard rearend installed and my original rearend in the bed of my truck.
09-05-2006, 11:53 PM
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well heres the thing insurance quoted them 7k for repairs . Lets be realistic guys for a new rear axle(stock 10 bolt go for 300-500 )and door ( go for about 150 )and some body work( no more then 400 dollars worth) and a rim (150)u really think it takes 7k to cover all that. They painted my car( and even then a shitty job paint peeled about 10 months later) but only charged me labor not materials since the manager previously was a good friend of my dad. I wound up getting a V6 rear axle and a pieace of **** door with the glass all fucked up from pervious tint and the door handle shot to **** not only that but they bonded my wing like ****. I just pisses me off that all the insurance money went to **** all i want is justification i dont think its right for them to get 7k and run of with most of it while i get stuck with ****. I wont stand for it and I will do anything in my power to get products worthy of those 7k. Im extremly pist right now so bare with me.
09-06-2006, 05:20 PM
#18
Originally Posted by keliente
Yeah you can do it. Might be a little overkill, like wearing a helmet to walk your dog.
That's good stuff!!! As for the rearend... if you're going to get a new rearend, why not get the strongest. Dana S60. heaver, more parasitic power loss, but damn near unbreakable.
09-07-2006, 06:15 PM
#20
Moser 9" with the Truetrac, shipped for $2,400.00. Add ABS/TCS for $100.00.
This rear will hold up in a 10 second car.
Buy from out of your state and you don't have to pay sales tax. Bob
This rear will hold up in a 10 second car.
Buy from out of your state and you don't have to pay sales tax. Bob