TooSlow02

For a full tune using LS1 Edit or HPTuners it runs about $350-$450. Handheld programmers like GMS, Hypertech and Diablo are in the same price range.

TooSlow02

There are many 10-bolt rear axles that have broken, regardless of power level. They're puny and weak, yes. But for every axle that experienced catastrophic failure, there's 1,000 10-bolt axles that haven't. Some just wear out. Not everyone races, and not everyone drives hard enough to break one. It sounds like the guy in your link has a diff problem, since Torsens were standard that year and they do that when they wear out. Even in your precious Dana S60, things will still wear out. You say you broke six? I haven't broken a single one, and this is my fifth car. I've put 42,000 miles of hell on this car, and nothing broke. I had my last Camaro at the road courses more than I had it on the street. 94,000 miles, and nothing broke. My '00? Nothing. My '98? Nothing. My first '94? Ditto. Not every 10-bolt is going to break. If he wanted to drag race on slicks, then I would say an upgraded rear axle is a must. Powershifter? Better axle. 150 shot? A must. A mostly stock street driven car? Just fix the 10-bolt. There are hundreds of thousands of these rear ends out there, and most of them are just fine. Then again, they probably aren't being raced.

TooSlow02

No, it isn't. It's an opinion that differs from yours. Get over it.

TooSlow02

No, actually he's going through with it because he doesn't have the money for your precious S60 rear, and he needs to get his car fixed.

SMOKKINU

iTrader: (4)

and he'll need to fix it again....and again...and again, the entire time pissing money in the wind. goodjob.

SMOKKINU

iTrader: (4)

the S60 is the cheapest route, best bang for the buck....precious or not, its better then rebuilding JUNK. It's not like investing money into a home...its not going to increase in value. a 10 bolt, good shape, or not, isnt worth anymore then $100.

TooSlow02

If he gets it set up right and gets rid of his Torsen, he'll be fine.

TooSlow02

To you, maybe. But for a poor college student, being able to get back and forth to school is worth a lot more.

ls1muscle

iTrader: (16)

As long as you have the stock clutch and boltons, you'll be fine. I drove my car pretty hard with boltons and nitto drag radials, including dragstrip, burnouts, sliding across the road, etc..

I now have a much stronger clutch which shocks the rear alot more than the stock clutch, but the nittos cannot handle the power i'm making now, so limited traction is keeping it alive

99zman

iTrader: (23)

That is a very good explaination. i couldn't have said it better myself.

99zman

iTrader: (23)

Dude, where did you get a s60 for $2300 thats how much they cost + new driveshaft+ shipping. so where can you get one for $2300 installed none the less? Just a question for ya just because you were dumb enough to put slicks on your car and launch at high rpm and break your rear 6 times as you say and you kept rebuilding it. it sounds to me you are the idiot. just because he wants 4:10's and drives his car on the street dosen't mean its gonna break. its a luck of the draw with the 10 bolt. it may last it may not. if you are such a rear end guru, why did you keep rebuilding it if you were so certin it was gonna break???

rk_2000_Z/28

iTrader: (3)

I have Motive 4.10s with a spec stage3 and Nitto DR and have had no problem...Meow that does not guarantee that YOU will not have problems. The 10-bolt is a ticking time bomb with an M6 no matter what gears you have in them, and there is a possibility they can go out at anytime.

The trick to a gear swap is to make sure that whoever puts them in for you knows what they are doing and sets them up right! Make sure you get a reputable shop to do the install.

Enjoy them man, they will make your car feel COMPLETELY different!

SMOKKINU

iTrader: (4)

I didnt break it each time with slicks....I ran once, on the street with slicks, broke a gear tooth and flexed the pinion inward...it began whining and clanking. came home, turned a corner on the street, was going around 70mph...the pinion had caught into the differential, locked up the rearend, and sent me spinning at 70mph....luckily, i didnt hit a damn thing. the culprit, the pinion nut was hand loose.

I got a cam, instant 400hp, broke the rearend, torsen differential, with simple daily driving, with 4.10 gears....fixed it with an Auburn differential. it didnt whine, till one race on the highway, from a roll in 2nd gear..... after that, it didnt take long till the auburn in it started clanking at low speeds and around right hand turns. eventually, the c-clip broke, and in reverse to park, my axle almost fell out....i got out to notice my wheel was sticking out more then usual....thats how i knew. i was very lucky i didnt drive off. i might not be here today....and neither would my girlfriend.

The other few times, one day at the track, about 6 runs on street tires, came home with a clank, another 4.10 gearset down the tubes.

Other various ****....

To be honest though, I cant say ive spent $1,000 each time i rebuilt my rearend.... i probly paid full price once. The other times, i got fixed under warranty from the original repair....the shop quit fixing it after that. I paid for maybe 3 differentials, so i spent quite a bit of money none the less....


what was my reasoning? I wanted to have the fastest fbody in my area, still on the stock 10 bolt. I finally gave up on that goal, the conclusion is....to get a 10 bolt into the 9's, you gotta be real lucky. Thats all it is.... I gave up on my goal, someone else can go for it. I made a mistake rebuilding it the first time....

Why am I so gun ho about being in here and swaying people towards the right decision? because its the truth and will save alot of money in the end, aswell as frustration....a stock powered fbody, can and will still break a 10 bolt....just cause some havent, doesnt mean yours wont.

The cheapest of the 3 upgrades is infact, the Strange S60, its a 9.7 inch ring gear, 35 spline axles. heavy duty everything...it weighs a lil more, but its efficiency rating far surpasses the 12 bolt, and the 9 inch.

As for where did i get my price, I formed a strong friendship with a local performance shop, who happens to be a dealer for strange....i got the rearend, at cost. Anybody can do something similar....sometimes they'll be willing to do it regardless, as long as you let them do the install.

99zman

iTrader: (23)

SMOKKINU, how much power dose your car make? what do you have done to it? there is no one in my area that sells them locally so im screwed. im also next month putting 4:10's in with a gridle and stud kit. i know its not strong but if it last me a year than that ok for me. i already spent a ton of money so far i dont have another 3k. mabye next year. all i can say is that if it breaks once on me thats it, ill get a big rear but for now ill play the game.... i just got a cam installed and i want to have the gears to match.

SMOKKINU

iTrader: (4)

Ive broken my rear throughout the mods on my car. but as it sits right now, i make 422hp 431tq Cam Only.

512hp 541tq on nitrous.


Mods are as follows:

Mac Midlenghts
Loudmouth, no cats.
LS6 Intake
Ported TB
MSD Wires
Whisper Lid K&N Filter
Comp Cam Springs good to .600 lift
Chrome Moly Pushrods
100 Shot Nitrous Wet Kit from NE
Joe Overton custom cam - 228-232 .595 109-LSA

Best run, on nitrous and hoosier slicks, is 11.00 at 117mph. and that was on the 10 bolt...it didnt last another run after that

Havent run at the track yet with the S60, but on the street its beautiful on slicks.

TransAminal

Dude chill out. You act like the 10 bolt is made for a 4 cylinder of something. Its not a piece of crap, its just undersized for the amount of power that our cars are capable of making. People don't drive their cars off the showroom floor and have the rear blow out. It happens, but its not an everyday occurance.

He bought all the proper things to beef up his 10 bolt, including the rear end girdle. There are articles in mags, as well as online, about how to make your 10 bolt last - it is possible, despite your critical view on it.

He's not planning on throwing drag radials on it and launching at 6K at the track, its a daily driver, it should be fine. Just keep wheel hop to a minimum, take it easy on the launches, and don't drive it like a drag car. It should be last as long as you need it to.

SMOKKINU

iTrader: (4)

Actually, the 10 bolt was designed for the chevy S10 Pickup.....which is a 4 cylinder. sometimes 6 cylinder, in the eXtreme versions.

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

homeboy is goin 10.10 on a 10 bolt, see link

http://www.nitrousfedmuscle.com/

not bad for a S-10 rear

TransAminal

10 bolts have been around forever. My friend has a 10 bolt in his 74 Nova, they didn't just decide one day to invent the 10 bolt for the S10 out of nowhere

99zman

iTrader: (23)

422hp 431tq Cam Only. thats with no heads and you make that kind of power through mac mids?? your mph seems way off for 531 rwhp? there is a guy in the easter section with 448 hp and runs a 11.3 at 122 i beleive. its a h/c car. any who. did the s60 have the swaybar mounts already welded on there? how was the install of the rear? any issues with the tq arm hitting? what tq arm are you running? thanks for the info.