just ordered 4.10's from the 3.42's
#21
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Originally Posted by ws6transamws6
thanks a lot TOOSLOW i was starting to wonder if i made the wrong choice but im not racing it too much right now, just more of a cruiser...how much do you think it would be to edit the computer for the speedo?? sorry im just kind of going into all of this blind so thanks in advance
#22
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....29&postcount=1
Notice, he has less mods then even you.... imagine that.
you are making a mistake.
Notice, he has less mods then even you.... imagine that.
you are making a mistake.
#24
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
So now that you heard what you WANT to hear, your going through with it....nice.
i'll be waiting in your future thread about your rear going out again to tell you "I told you so"
i'll be waiting in your future thread about your rear going out again to tell you "I told you so"
#25
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Originally Posted by TooSlow02
No, actually he's going through with it because he doesn't have the money for your precious S60 rear, and he needs to get his car fixed.
and he'll need to fix it again....and again...and again, the entire time pissing money in the wind. goodjob.
![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
#26
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Originally Posted by TooSlow02
No, actually he's going through with it because he doesn't have the money for your precious S60 rear, and he needs to get his car fixed.
the S60 is the cheapest route, best bang for the buck....precious or not, its better then rebuilding JUNK. It's not like investing money into a home...its not going to increase in value. a 10 bolt, good shape, or not, isnt worth anymore then $100.
#27
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
and he'll need to fix it again....and again...and again, the entire time pissing money in the wind. goodjob. ![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
![STFU](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/STFU.gif)
#28
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
the S60 is the cheapest route, best bang for the buck....precious or not, its better then rebuilding JUNK. It's not like investing money into a home...its not going to increase in value. a 10 bolt, good shape, or not, isnt worth anymore then $100.
#29
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As long as you have the stock clutch and boltons, you'll be fine. I drove my car pretty hard with boltons and nitto drag radials, including dragstrip, burnouts, sliding across the road, etc..
I now have a much stronger clutch which shocks the rear alot more than the stock clutch, but the nittos cannot handle the power i'm making now, so limited traction is keeping it alive
I now have a much stronger clutch which shocks the rear alot more than the stock clutch, but the nittos cannot handle the power i'm making now, so limited traction is keeping it alive
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#30
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Originally Posted by TooSlow02
Upgrading to a stronger rearend on a basically stock car isn't necessary. And yes, wheelhop is a killer of rear axles, be it a 10 or 12-bolt or 9" or Dana. It's all about driveline shock. But unless you're planning to run slicks at the dragstrip every weekend and launch the car a 6000 rpm powershifting your way to the traps you don't need to upgrade the rear axle. 4.10s will make your 10-bolt weaker, but as long as you maintain it and eliminate your wheelhop issue it will be fine. Also, check your differential. Usually it's the differential carrier that breaks, not the ring and pinion itself. You more than likely have a Torsen differential in your car, and they wear out much faster than the Auburn type. Also, 12-bolt rears are quite a bit wider in the center section, so they tend to hit the body of the car on the torque arm side (especially with aftermarket torque arms), which can be pretty annoying on a street car. They are also much heavier than 10-bolts, which increases your unsprung weight and contributes to increased brake hop (bad for street cars). And regardless of what some people think, stronger rear ends are not the perfect solution. They all have their little nuances and problems, like everything else mechanical. They aren't unbreakable, they're just less likely to break.
#31
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
the S60 is the cheapest route, best bang for the buck....precious or not, its better then rebuilding JUNK. It's not like investing money into a home...its not going to increase in value. a 10 bolt, good shape, or not, isnt worth anymore then $100.
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
#32
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I have Motive 4.10s with a spec stage3 and Nitto DR and have had no problem...Meow that does not guarantee that YOU will not have problems. The 10-bolt is a ticking time bomb with an M6 no matter what gears you have in them, and there is a possibility they can go out at anytime.
The trick to a gear swap is to make sure that whoever puts them in for you knows what they are doing and sets them up right! Make sure you get a reputable shop to do the install.
Enjoy them man, they will make your car feel COMPLETELY different!
The trick to a gear swap is to make sure that whoever puts them in for you knows what they are doing and sets them up right! Make sure you get a reputable shop to do the install.
Enjoy them man, they will make your car feel COMPLETELY different!
#33
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Originally Posted by 99zman
Dude, where did you get a s60 for $2300 thats how much they cost + new driveshaft+ shipping. so where can you get one for $2300 installed none the less? Just a question for ya just because you were dumb enough to put slicks on your car and launch at high rpm and break your rear 6 times
as you say and you kept rebuilding it. it sounds to me you are the idiot. just because he wants 4:10's and drives his car on the street dosen't mean its gonna break. its a luck of the draw with the 10 bolt. it may last it may not. if you are such a rear end guru, why did you keep rebuilding it if you were so certin it was gonna break??? ![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
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I got a cam, instant 400hp, broke the rearend, torsen differential, with simple daily driving, with 4.10 gears....fixed it with an Auburn differential. it didnt whine, till one race on the highway, from a roll in 2nd gear..... after that, it didnt take long till the auburn in it started clanking at low speeds and around right hand turns. eventually, the c-clip broke, and in reverse to park, my axle almost fell out....i got out to notice my wheel was sticking out more then usual....thats how i knew. i was very lucky i didnt drive off. i might not be here today....and neither would my girlfriend.
The other few times, one day at the track, about 6 runs on street tires, came home with a clank, another 4.10 gearset down the tubes.
Other various ****....
To be honest though, I cant say ive spent $1,000 each time i rebuilt my rearend.... i probly paid full price once. The other times, i got fixed under warranty from the original repair....the shop quit fixing it after that. I paid for maybe 3 differentials, so i spent quite a bit of money none the less....
what was my reasoning? I wanted to have the fastest fbody in my area, still on the stock 10 bolt. I finally gave up on that goal, the conclusion is....to get a 10 bolt into the 9's, you gotta be real lucky. Thats all it is.... I gave up on my goal, someone else can go for it. I made a mistake rebuilding it the first time....
Why am I so gun ho about being in here and swaying people towards the right decision? because its the truth and will save alot of money in the end, aswell as frustration....a stock powered fbody, can and will still break a 10 bolt....just cause some havent, doesnt mean yours wont.
The cheapest of the 3 upgrades is infact, the Strange S60, its a 9.7 inch ring gear, 35 spline axles. heavy duty everything...it weighs a lil more, but its efficiency rating far surpasses the 12 bolt, and the 9 inch.
As for where did i get my price, I formed a strong friendship with a local performance shop, who happens to be a dealer for strange....i got the rearend, at cost. Anybody can do something similar....sometimes they'll be willing to do it regardless, as long as you let them do the install.
Last edited by SMOKKINU; 01-14-2007 at 07:28 PM.
#34
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SMOKKINU, how much power dose your car make? what do you have done to it? there is no one in my area that sells them locally so im screwed. im also next month putting 4:10's in with a gridle and stud kit. i know its not strong but if it last me a year than that ok for me. i already spent a ton of money so far i dont have another 3k. mabye next year. all i can say is that if it breaks once on me thats it, ill get a big rear but for now ill play the game.... i just got a cam installed and i want to have the gears to match.
#35
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Originally Posted by 99zman
SMOKKINU, how much power dose your car make? what do you have done to it? there is no one in my area that sells them locally so im screwed. im also next month putting 4:10's in with a gridle and stud kit. i know its not strong but if it last me a year than that ok for me. i already spent a ton of money so far i dont have another 3k. mabye next year. all i can say is that if it breaks once on me thats it, ill get a big rear but for now ill play the game.... i just got a cam installed and i want to have the gears to match.
Ive broken my rear throughout the mods on my car. but as it sits right now, i make 422hp 431tq Cam Only.
512hp 541tq on nitrous.
Mods are as follows:
Mac Midlenghts
Loudmouth, no cats.
LS6 Intake
Ported TB
MSD Wires
Whisper Lid K&N Filter
Comp Cam Springs good to .600 lift
Chrome Moly Pushrods
100 Shot Nitrous Wet Kit from NE
Joe Overton custom cam - 228-232 .595 109-LSA
Best run, on nitrous and hoosier slicks, is 11.00 at 117mph. and that was on the 10 bolt...it didnt last another run after that
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Havent run at the track yet with the S60, but on the street its beautiful on slicks.
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
#36
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
and he'll need to fix it again....and again...and again, the entire time pissing money in the wind. goodjob. ![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
He bought all the proper things to beef up his 10 bolt, including the rear end girdle. There are articles in mags, as well as online, about how to make your 10 bolt last - it is possible, despite your critical view on it.
He's not planning on throwing drag radials on it and launching at 6K at the track, its a daily driver, it should be fine. Just keep wheel hop to a minimum, take it easy on the launches, and don't drive it like a drag car. It should be last as long as you need it to.
#37
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Originally Posted by TransAminal
Dude chill out. You act like the 10 bolt is made for a 4 cylinder of something. Its not a piece of crap, its just undersized for the amount of power that our cars are capable of making. People don't drive their cars off the showroom floor and have the rear blow out. It happens, but its not an everyday occurance.
He bought all the proper things to beef up his 10 bolt, including the rear end girdle. There are articles in mags, as well as online, about how to make your 10 bolt last - it is possible, despite your critical view on it.
He's not planning on throwing drag radials on it and launching at 6K at the track, its a daily driver, it should be fine. Just keep wheel hop to a minimum, take it easy on the launches, and don't drive it like a drag car. It should be last as long as you need it to.
He bought all the proper things to beef up his 10 bolt, including the rear end girdle. There are articles in mags, as well as online, about how to make your 10 bolt last - it is possible, despite your critical view on it.
He's not planning on throwing drag radials on it and launching at 6K at the track, its a daily driver, it should be fine. Just keep wheel hop to a minimum, take it easy on the launches, and don't drive it like a drag car. It should be last as long as you need it to.
Actually, the 10 bolt was designed for the chevy S10 Pickup.....which is a 4 cylinder. sometimes 6 cylinder, in the eXtreme versions.
#38
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homeboy is goin 10.10 on a 10 bolt, see link
http://www.nitrousfedmuscle.com/
not bad for a S-10 rear
http://www.nitrousfedmuscle.com/
not bad for a S-10 rear
#39
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
Actually, the 10 bolt was designed for the chevy S10 Pickup.....which is a 4 cylinder. sometimes 6 cylinder, in the eXtreme versions.
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#40
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Originally Posted by SMOKKINU
Ive broken my rear throughout the mods on my car. but as it sits right now, i make 422hp 431tq Cam Only.
512hp 541tq on nitrous.
Mods are as follows:
Mac Midlenghts
Loudmouth, no cats.
LS6 Intake
Ported TB
MSD Wires
Whisper Lid K&N Filter
Comp Cam Springs good to .600 lift
Chrome Moly Pushrods
100 Shot Nitrous Wet Kit from NE
Joe Overton custom cam - 228-232 .595 109-LSA
Best run, on nitrous and hoosier slicks, is 11.00 at 117mph. and that was on the 10 bolt...it didnt last another run after that![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Havent run at the track yet with the S60, but on the street its beautiful on slicks.![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
512hp 541tq on nitrous.
Mods are as follows:
Mac Midlenghts
Loudmouth, no cats.
LS6 Intake
Ported TB
MSD Wires
Whisper Lid K&N Filter
Comp Cam Springs good to .600 lift
Chrome Moly Pushrods
100 Shot Nitrous Wet Kit from NE
Joe Overton custom cam - 228-232 .595 109-LSA
Best run, on nitrous and hoosier slicks, is 11.00 at 117mph. and that was on the 10 bolt...it didnt last another run after that
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Havent run at the track yet with the S60, but on the street its beautiful on slicks.
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)