just ordered 4.10's from the 3.42's
01-14-2007, 02:57 PM
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just ordered 4.10's from the 3.42's i just ordered some 4.10's from the stock 3.42's that didn't seem to last .. maybe due to wheel hop?? i have a m6 and was just looking to see if there was anything i should be aware of going into the new 4.10's 
01-14-2007, 03:03 PM
#2
Originally Posted by ws6transamws6
i just ordered some 4.10's from the stock 3.42's that didn't seem to last .. maybe due to wheel hop?? i have a m6 and was just looking to see if there was anything i should be aware of going into the new 4.10's
they will break.
01-14-2007, 03:13 PM
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why is that?? i got all a whole new install kit, all seals, bearings new and a rear end cover my engine is basically stock except for maf, bellow, intake, exhaust
01-14-2007, 03:23 PM
#4
Originally Posted by ws6transamws6
why is that?? i got all a whole new install kit, all seals, bearings new and a rear end cover my engine is basically stock except for maf, bellow, intake, exhaust
return all that stuff, save your money, and buy a 12 bolt at the least... Dana S60 from Strange is the cheaper route, its also the strongest of the 3 rears for our cars...your basically rebuilding a piece of crap...it WILL BREAK, especially once you mod it more....4.10's will be even quicker to break aswell.... you will be tempted to punch it alot. just trust me. get your money back, and buy a rear.... i know from experience. i rebuilt my 10 bolt 6 times.
01-14-2007, 03:51 PM
#6
Originally Posted by ws6transamws6
i just looked up the 12 bolts...a littleeee out of my price range, workin 3 jobs and still in college full time 
I got my Strange S60 installed W/New Steel driveshaft for $2,300 installed.
Find a shop, establish a relationship, and see if they[ll install it and purchase it at cost..... or do it yourself.....
01-14-2007, 04:12 PM
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well for the money right now im gonna have to go with what i ordered, the 4.10s since my 3.42's are smoked...but i have a question about the speedo, the computer will have to be edited for 4.10's correct?
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01-14-2007, 04:14 PM
#8
Originally Posted by ws6transamws6
well for the money right now im gonna have to go with what i ordered, the 4.10s since my 3.42's are smoked...but i have a question about the speedo, the computer will have to be edited for 4.10's correct?
yup, thats another $450 to buy a LS1Edit tune..... unless you can find someone with a power programmer and you pay a few hundred to have your VIN added to it...you might save $100
01-14-2007, 04:19 PM
#10
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Upgrading to a stronger rearend on a basically stock car isn't necessary. And yes, wheelhop is a killer of rear axles, be it a 10 or 12-bolt or 9" or Dana. It's all about driveline shock. But unless you're planning to run slicks at the dragstrip every weekend and launch the car a 6000 rpm powershifting your way to the traps you don't need to upgrade the rear axle. 4.10s will make your 10-bolt weaker, but as long as you maintain it and eliminate your wheelhop issue it will be fine. Also, check your differential. Usually it's the differential carrier that breaks, not the ring and pinion itself. You more than likely have a Torsen differential in your car, and they wear out much faster than the Auburn type. Also, 12-bolt rears are quite a bit wider in the center section, so they tend to hit the body of the car on the torque arm side (especially with aftermarket torque arms), which can be pretty annoying on a street car. They are also much heavier than 10-bolts, which increases your unsprung weight and contributes to increased brake hop (bad for street cars). And regardless of what some people think, stronger rear ends are not the perfect solution. They all have their little nuances and problems, like everything else mechanical. They aren't unbreakable, they're just less likely to break.
01-14-2007, 04:21 PM
#11
Originally Posted by TooSlow02
Upgrading to a stronger rearend on a basically stock car isn't necessary. And yes, wheelhop is a killer of rear axles, be it a 10 or 12-bolt or 9" or Dana. It's all about driveline shock. But unless you're planning to run slicks at the dragstrip every weekend and launch the car a 6000 rpm powershifting your way to the traps you don't need to upgrade the rear axle. 4.10s will make your 10-bolt weaker, but as long as you maintain it and eliminate your wheelhop issue it will be fine. Also, check your differential. Usually it's the differential carrier that breaks, not the ring and pinion itself. You more than likely have a Torsen differential in your car, and they wear out much faster than the Auburn type. Also, 12-bolt rears are quite a bit wider in the center section, so they tend to hit the body of the car on the torque arm side (especially with aftermarket torque arms), which can be pretty annoying on a street car. They are also much heavier than 10-bolts, which increases your unsprung weight and contributes to increased brake hop (bad for street cars). And regardless of what some people think, stronger rear ends are not the perfect solution. They all have their little nuances and problems, like everything else mechanical. They aren't unbreakable, they're just less likely to break.
I broke my 10 bolt twice with just a lid and exhaust.
01-14-2007, 04:27 PM
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the only reason im stickin with my 4.10's is because i dont really beat the **** out of it, and its more for cruisin, not too much highway drivin so i think ill be ok in that aspect, i was just lookin for a little more punch
thanks for your help guys
thanks for your help guys
01-14-2007, 05:12 PM
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thanks a lot TOOSLOW i was starting to wonder if i made the wrong choice but im not racing it too much right now, just more of a cruiser...how much do you think it would be to edit the computer for the speedo?? sorry im just kind of going into all of this blind so thanks in advance