Ratech Solid Spacer for 7.5 10-bolt - how hard to install??
06-23-2007, 09:17 PM
#1
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Ratech Solid Spacer for 7.5 10-bolt - how hard to install?? Does this require resetting the gears etc or can someone with good mechanical knowledge (but no exp w/ setting gears etc.) do this? thanks
anyone have a writeup for this?
anyone have a writeup for this?
06-24-2007, 04:12 PM
#3
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Actually... a/the soild spacer/crush sleeve only deals with bearing pre-load and not pinion depth. So no, you would not have to 're-set' the gears per-say.
What you will have to know is how much pre-load to set the pinion bearings to. With used bearings you will want to set the pre-load much lighter than you would if they are new. New are set to a rolling 35 in/lbs, with a liberal amount of grease applied to the bearing's and cup's. Used are set to about half of that, at around 15 in/lbs.
Pinion bearing pre-load is measured in 'rolling inch pounds'... and with the tight quaters of the pinion yoke/tq arm/floor tunnel... this turns into a kind of "feel" thing. The best way to properly get this "feel" is to take the wheel/tire off and remove the brake caliper and driveshaft. That way you are only getting a feel for the pinion alone. Grab the yoke and turn it... get an idea of the 'rolling' resistance of the poinion bearings. Now all you will have to do is set-up the solid spacer to that same "feel". Differentials have always been a sort of "touchy feely" gig to begin with and this is part of that magic... and with the confines of the chassis (tunnel/tq arm/etc) this is where that makes the big difference. You dont have an abundance of room to use a dial torque wrench in those confines and the more extentions you put on the wrench... the less accurate it becomes.
The challenges will be removing the pinion yoke... and then the outer pinion bearing itself. if you cant get into it... you may have to pull the cover and pretty much roll thru punches of doing it just like you would if you were setting it up from scratch just to get the outer pinion bearing and crush sleeve out of it. But my money is on that you can do it with a yoke puller, a hammer and a tapered punch.
In short, yes you should be able to do this. Pay attention to the "feel" of things and take your time to make sure you get it where it needs to be.
What you will have to know is how much pre-load to set the pinion bearings to. With used bearings you will want to set the pre-load much lighter than you would if they are new. New are set to a rolling 35 in/lbs, with a liberal amount of grease applied to the bearing's and cup's. Used are set to about half of that, at around 15 in/lbs.
Pinion bearing pre-load is measured in 'rolling inch pounds'... and with the tight quaters of the pinion yoke/tq arm/floor tunnel... this turns into a kind of "feel" thing. The best way to properly get this "feel" is to take the wheel/tire off and remove the brake caliper and driveshaft. That way you are only getting a feel for the pinion alone. Grab the yoke and turn it... get an idea of the 'rolling' resistance of the poinion bearings. Now all you will have to do is set-up the solid spacer to that same "feel". Differentials have always been a sort of "touchy feely" gig to begin with and this is part of that magic... and with the confines of the chassis (tunnel/tq arm/etc) this is where that makes the big difference. You dont have an abundance of room to use a dial torque wrench in those confines and the more extentions you put on the wrench... the less accurate it becomes.
The challenges will be removing the pinion yoke... and then the outer pinion bearing itself. if you cant get into it... you may have to pull the cover and pretty much roll thru punches of doing it just like you would if you were setting it up from scratch just to get the outer pinion bearing and crush sleeve out of it. But my money is on that you can do it with a yoke puller, a hammer and a tapered punch.
In short, yes you should be able to do this. Pay attention to the "feel" of things and take your time to make sure you get it where it needs to be.
06-26-2007, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by chicane
Actually... a/the soild spacer/crush sleeve only deals with bearing pre-load and not pinion depth. So no, you would not have to 're-set' the gears per-say.
What you will have to know is how much pre-load to set the pinion bearings to. With used bearings you will want to set the pre-load much lighter than you would if they are new. New are set to a rolling 35 in/lbs, with a liberal amount of grease applied to the bearing's and cup's. Used are set to about half of that, at around 15 in/lbs.
Pinion bearing pre-load is measured in 'rolling inch pounds'... and with the tight quaters of the pinion yoke/tq arm/floor tunnel... this turns into a kind of "feel" thing. The best way to properly get this "feel" is to take the wheel/tire off and remove the brake caliper and driveshaft. That way you are only getting a feel for the pinion alone. Grab the yoke and turn it... get an idea of the 'rolling' resistance of the poinion bearings. Now all you will have to do is set-up the solid spacer to that same "feel". Differentials have always been a sort of "touchy feely" gig to begin with and this is part of that magic... and with the confines of the chassis (tunnel/tq arm/etc) this is where that makes the big difference. You dont have an abundance of room to use a dial torque wrench in those confines and the more extentions you put on the wrench... the less accurate it becomes.
The challenges will be removing the pinion yoke... and then the outer pinion bearing itself. if you cant get into it... you may have to pull the cover and pretty much roll thru punches of doing it just like you would if you were setting it up from scratch just to get the outer pinion bearing and crush sleeve out of it. But my money is on that you can do it with a yoke puller, a hammer and a tapered punch.
In short, yes you should be able to do this. Pay attention to the "feel" of things and take your time to make sure you get it where it needs to be.
What you will have to know is how much pre-load to set the pinion bearings to. With used bearings you will want to set the pre-load much lighter than you would if they are new. New are set to a rolling 35 in/lbs, with a liberal amount of grease applied to the bearing's and cup's. Used are set to about half of that, at around 15 in/lbs.
Pinion bearing pre-load is measured in 'rolling inch pounds'... and with the tight quaters of the pinion yoke/tq arm/floor tunnel... this turns into a kind of "feel" thing. The best way to properly get this "feel" is to take the wheel/tire off and remove the brake caliper and driveshaft. That way you are only getting a feel for the pinion alone. Grab the yoke and turn it... get an idea of the 'rolling' resistance of the poinion bearings. Now all you will have to do is set-up the solid spacer to that same "feel". Differentials have always been a sort of "touchy feely" gig to begin with and this is part of that magic... and with the confines of the chassis (tunnel/tq arm/etc) this is where that makes the big difference. You dont have an abundance of room to use a dial torque wrench in those confines and the more extentions you put on the wrench... the less accurate it becomes.
The challenges will be removing the pinion yoke... and then the outer pinion bearing itself. if you cant get into it... you may have to pull the cover and pretty much roll thru punches of doing it just like you would if you were setting it up from scratch just to get the outer pinion bearing and crush sleeve out of it. But my money is on that you can do it with a yoke puller, a hammer and a tapered punch.
In short, yes you should be able to do this. Pay attention to the "feel" of things and take your time to make sure you get it where it needs to be.
thanks man!
06-27-2007, 06:12 AM
#5
A good way to get the pinion depth and bearing preload near perfect is to set up the rear with the crush sleeve like usual. When you get everything right, take it apart and mic the crush sleeve. Use that mearsurement to shim the solid spacer to match. Works well!
06-28-2007, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28
A good way to get the pinion depth and bearing preload near perfect is to set up the rear with the crush sleeve like usual. When you get everything right, take it apart and mic the crush sleeve. Use that mearsurement to shim the solid spacer to match. Works well!
thanks for the tip!
