Moser 12bolt T/A problems, Solution....
Well I would like a nut and bolt setup like the stock and Strange rear ends. It seems there is no problems with bolts backing out this way? I have not looked at my 12 bolt close enough, but I assume running a long bolt through it is out of the question, even with some machine work? Differntial probably gets in the way otherwise why would Moser use 4 bolts?
So what can be done? I am considering trading mine in for a Strange. I drive my car to the track and would like to feel confident that I will drive it back. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Justin
Just curious but what type of bolts are you using also?
Good luck!
Kurtis, I am going to get some longer grade 8 bolts tomorrow.
Thanks!
Justin
Later
Darren
<small>[ November 08, 2002, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: Darren ]</small>
BTW, I've had my Moser in for 1 year with NO loctite, and they haven't backed out yet.
<small>[ November 08, 2002, 10:37 PM: Message edited by: bigSS ]</small>
Joel
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The tack welding does sound like a viable solution though.
BTW went 11.49-117.87 in 461ft DA without tuning yesterday. Cant wait til I get all my mods done. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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Have you tried the industrial grade(green) loctite? We use it on jet engines in certain applications where you have to insure the bolts can't back out, like the tie bolt which holds compressor and turbine sections together. The only consideration when using the industrial grade would be when you have to remove the bolts as the industrial grade sets up harder than a rock, I've snapped bolt heads off because whoever put the engine together before me used to much loctite. I can get you the PN# if you want, let me know.
Mark
I was just talking to someone yesterday about industrial grade loctite. They said you would have to heat it up with a tourch to remove the bolts or they would break off. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> Could you email me that part number and where I can get it?
I am going to try the longer grade 8 bolts, lock washers, and red loctite first and see if that holds.
Justin
I'll get tha PN# tomorrow at work and shot you an e-mail. I'll look in my tool box, I may have some I could send you. I work for an aircraft parts supply company we may carry it, if we do I'll see what it costs.
Mark
You can have the holes extended enough into the casting to allow you to cotter pin the bolt up in there. Basically you would need a small hole through the end of the bolts exposed enough to slip the pin through.
I've had my Moser now for a few months and checked the bolts on the torque arm when the u-joint exploded. All of them were fine.
As far as thread goes, no matter how many threads you have the basic rule is that a bolt will be at full strength with at least three threads engagement or 1.5 times the thread diameter. In extreme cases 2 times the thread diameter is used as a saftey factor.
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