LILWS6

I'm looking to put a new auburn diff and richmond gears in the rear of my car and possibly new axles. I'm looking for the specs so i know witch diff to order and i want 4:10's are there any differences or are all the 4:10's the same? i'm new with rear ends i'm used to Wrong wheel drive cars. and what are good axles to go with. I'm not plannin on running anything real sticky for a while and the most i see doing is a 3,000 rpm launch at the most. i couldn't find anything in the sticky's. also anyone have any experiences with auburn diff's and richmond gears?

keliente

iTrader: (22)

For what you want to do honestly I would skip the differential and axles. A good diff + axles is going to run around $800 (plus labor if you aren't DIY)...and the bottom line is that $800 could be going towards making your future brighter with a 9 inch. I would just do the gears for now, they're fun...richmonds work well, get a master install kit to go along with it and call it a day..

LILWS6

the gears are just the weakest link any ways right? i mean my diff now works fine i figured i would just upgrade it while it was apart but if i can get away with a set of gears and bearings that would be way cheaper.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

The entire thing is a crapshoot. You could replace gears, diff, and axles, and then have the housing twist a month later. It's just not worth putting any extra money into except for small repairs or gear upgrades.

LILWS6

thats what i'm thinking but the pinion is starting to leak a little bit more and i'm thinking gears and bearings should help that out a bit i don't race a lot but i do pop the clutch occationally

monzaz

I bet you guys never knew the pinion shaft size in a 7.5 is the same as a 455 GTO 8.2 lol. The 7.5 do the job on the street easy. Track uses is limited but a GOOD EATON clutch style posi units have no problem into the mid elevens . Alot of gear failure is caused by gear install backlash too much .005-.008 is GM spec. get the backlash to the lower end of that spec and in the correct depth your good. Get the depth wrong and backlash out to over .010 and yoru done for. You should not need 12 bolt or 9" unless you are a every weekend racer and drive to the track. If you trailor it Just Full spool the rear in a 12 bolt dana 60 or ford 9" and ladder bar the car for best all out launch and 60foot.

Here are your specs:

you need a 7.6 limited slip diff with 28 spline axles
if you are buying a 3 series unit make sure you buy the matching 3 series gears. If you run across a deal with a 2 series Limited slip unit use the thick gears.

So if you are Ebaying for parts... Buy the unit first ...then you will know what gears to buy. 2 or 3 series 4.10

axles :
32 1/8" 28 spline with out traction control
32" 28 spline with electronic traction control

hope this helps. Remember install does go along way to keep most parts alive...motor trans and rears.

Jim

keliente

iTrader: (22)

Going to respectfully disagree here. The 10 bolt under the f-body is not worth a crap. You only need to spend a week reading this section to see how many people report back with broken rears - half of them don't even see the track.

The reason I don't think upgrading the diff is a good idea is because the rest of the rear end is still a crapshoot. You get a nice diff...that's great. You're still contending with the rest of the piddly 10 bolt. Sinking a lot of money into it is not smart. As soon as you fill the rear with $1k worth of goodies then something else happens, like the housing twists. Then you've basically wasted $1k on a rear when you could have put it towards the 9 inch/12 bolt.

It's no secret that the 10 bolt is lackluster, and there is no sense in trying to sugarcoat that or bandaid this rear end.

You will also need to edit your post and remove the link because you are not a sponsor here.