2sscamaro11

Ok, I have searched this and some people say it is fine to delete the oil cooler and others say you need/should install an aftermarket version with a thermostat of some sort.

So, I have two questions. Who has deleted the oil cooler and not had a problem with oil temps? My car will have a NA lsx427 that will see some street use and drag racing.

No matter what, I am deleting the coolant lines and factory cooler. I could install an A/A cooler, but things are getting kind tight up there with me installing a trans cooler for my 4l80E.

I am also wondering if anyone has used the stock trans cooler that is part of the rad as an engine oil cooler rather than installing a new A/A?

Thank you,

Paul

grocerygetter

iTrader: (2)

I've read both sides too. I know some folks have ditched it for sure. honestly thought it was there to get temps up at warm up too for cold climates...and yes, cooling when hot. But curious to see what is said as well. Mine hasn't leaked yet. Luckily.

Kiwi_Camaro_2010

I have deleted mine, with no problems so far, originally done because of leaking, as far as I can tell not needed unless you are road racing, but I will put a aftermarket 1 back on for peace of mind later if i can work out a place to mount it without interfering with intercooler rad.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

Oil is heated by RPM's. If you run high rpm's for extended periods of time - like road racing - then you should definitely have an oil cooler.

If it's also a street car, then you need a way to shut it off, so oil is not routed through the cooler. Otherwise on a cold day the oil will never get up to temp. An automatic thermostat is convenient, but doesn't always work as well as you'd like it to. Or use a ball valve and a one way check valve to re-route the flow around the core.

Don't try and run it through the transmission heat exchanger in the radiator. The lines are much too small, and you'll get a huge pressure drop. I'v seen aftermarket radiators with heat exchangers built for engine oil, using -8 or -10 lines.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

straight in the trash, well, into the parts bin. apparently replacements are very expensive from the dealer, and there is (or will be) a large resale market once warranties run out. I already resold mine to replace a leaky one.

chevrolade

iTrader: (21)

Mine took a **** on me on the highway with only 18k miles! Lucky it didn't hurt my motor

Simply deleted it with parts off a 2013

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Mine cracked at the track last year, had it fixed under warranty but have been buying the parts to delete when I do heads and cam.

Nitroman28

What did you use to block it off? Mines been leaking from day one. Dealer tried to fix it twice when car was under warranty for a short period.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

F-body/gto/corvette piece.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/14869209-post2.html

Nitroman28

Thanks for the links. Did a search for the GTO block off and came by this. Looks like an easy option.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...23681/10002/-1

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

yep, you also need a block plug for the water line from the block, and cap or replace your upper radiator hose with a 2013-14 hose that doesnt have the water line there