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Opinions on keeping a car in the garage

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Old 10-18-2012, 10:42 AM
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Default Opinions on keeping a car in the garage

Since I bought my subaru about two months ago I never drive my T/A anymore. In two months I have driven it 4 times. It just sits in my garage and I drive it on days when it is either really nice out with no chance of rain or if the subaru is out of gas or is down for repairs. Should I do anything extra since the T/A never moves. I thought about selling it, but I want to pay it off first and then sell it. I'm worried about the battery dying since it is about 4 years old. I'm also concerned about the tires. I keep them pumped up, but I'm worried about flat spots. Any tips or suggestions?
Old 10-18-2012, 11:12 AM
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Get a battery maintainer and put some Stabil in the gas. Move the car at least once every other week, even if it's just taking it around the neighborhood for a spin.
Old 10-18-2012, 11:14 AM
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I've got OCD especially when it comes to my car.

I bought it brand new and have the original battery...I always store it in my basement in the winter months, they don't like the cold. I've never ever put a charge on it and it starts right up every spring. Been parking my car on a carpeted garage floor for 11 years on original tires with no flat spots. My car sits a lot, I store it from Oct - May and usually only drive it ~500 miles a year. Other than that I just keep a car cover on it and normal maintenance. I don't use sta-bil or any of those crap additives and my car runs like new, just a bit faster.
Old 10-18-2012, 11:17 AM
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I need to get a cover for it. It has dust all over it. I wipe it off about once a week, but a cover would be better.
Old 10-18-2012, 12:31 PM
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Keep the gas tank full. If the air in the empty space goes through cycles of warming up and cooling down you can get moisture condensing out. Less empty space, less air. If you have the option in your area, don't use gas with ethanol, the ethanol is hydroscopic, it will draw moisture out of the air.

When you do drive it, make sure to get it fully up to temperature. Get the engine, tranny and exhaust warm. This will drive out moisture from the crankcase and exhaust. Don't just take it out once a month for a quick trip to the store and back.
Old 10-18-2012, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Element
Move the car at least once every other week, even if it's just taking it around the neighborhood for a spin.
I would not do any "quick spins". If you're not going to drive it for a good distance, then don't start it at all.

Originally Posted by BrntWS6
I don't use sta-bil or any of those crap additives
Stabil is good stuff. I've tried storing cars with and without it, and cold start performance is always better with it. It's even more important if the car has a metal gas tank, where rust can be an issue especially with modern ethanol-containing fuels.

I agree about the tires though. People worry too much about flat spotting; it's not much of an issue unless the car is sitting on some sort of competition tire. Normal Z-rated street tires won't get any permanent flat spots sitting over the winter, especially if you air them up to max PSI prior to storage. Any flat spots will be temporary and will be gone after a few miles of driving.

The rest of my routine is similar. Mine is stored from October to April, not started at all during storage, parked on carpet, and driven between 300-1000 miles per year for the last decade or so. I'll put a 2 amp smart charger on the battery maybe twice during winter storage. I've had no issues arise from this storage process at all.
Old 10-18-2012, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I would not do any "quick spins". If you're not going to drive it for a good distance, then don't start it at all.
For me, a "quick spin" is a 20-30 minute drive, which is more than enough to get it to operating temperature even in the winter. Probably should have clarified a bit better.
Old 10-18-2012, 01:04 PM
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I'm not too worried about actually driving it. I understand the whole concept behind moisture and everything from short trips. I was just curious about it physically sitting in the garage. Sounds like I have nothing really to worry about though. I was just curious because it sits so long. It sits long enough to where when I start it up the car ticks like crazy for about 3 seconds because the oil isn't up in the top end anymore. I might take it out today since it is kind of nice out.
Old 10-18-2012, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Element
For me, a "quick spin" is a 20-30 minute drive, which is more than enough to get it to operating temperature even in the winter. Probably should have clarified a bit better.
Yes, in that case it's fine. I just took "quick spin" to mean literally around the block or something; there are actually people that do this, or start it every week and just let it idle for 5 minutes. Either would be far worse for the car than just not starting it at all. But a 20-30 minute drive should be fine.

Originally Posted by metalmilitia606
It sits long enough to where when I start it up the car ticks like crazy for about 3 seconds because the oil isn't up in the top end anymore.
Even when mine sits for 6 months straight I don't have that problem. I have the usual piston slap on my '02, but that is a different sound than you are describing and it doesn't even start until after the engine has been running for several seconds. I hear no ticks of any kind during the first few seconds of run time.
Old 10-18-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by metalmilitia606
I'm not too worried about actually driving it. I understand the whole concept behind moisture and everything from short trips. I was just curious about it physically sitting in the garage. Sounds like I have nothing really to worry about though. I was just curious because it sits so long. It sits long enough to where when I start it up the car ticks like crazy for about 3 seconds because the oil isn't up in the top end anymore. I might take it out today since it is kind of nice out.
You can pull the fuel pump relay and crank the car a few times for 2-3 seconds each, which allows the oil pump to move oil to the top end of the engine, without allowing the fuel in to start the engine while you're cranking. As long as you allow it to run at normal idle speed for a bit after the initial start-up, you should be fine without needing to do the no-fire crank.
Old 10-18-2012, 03:07 PM
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I got the same issue with the long mn winters and being the orginal owner with 24k miles on my 01. Stable in gas.... I would just leave alone during winter.. when ready to drive after it has been parked for awhile, just switch oil and your good to go.
Old 10-18-2012, 07:34 PM
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cover, stabil, battery tender you should be ok.


if its sitting for an extended period id change your oil before getting ready to drive it regularly. others might disagree there.
Old 10-18-2012, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Yes, in that case it's fine. I just took "quick spin" to mean literally around the block or something; there are actually people that do this, or start it every week and just let it idle for 5 minutes. Either would be far worse for the car than just not starting it at all. But a 20-30 minute drive should be fine.



Even when mine sits for 6 months straight I don't have that problem. I have the usual piston slap on my '02, but that is a different sound than you are describing and it doesn't even start until after the engine has been running for several seconds. I hear no ticks of any kind during the first few seconds of run time.
Mine sounds a little bit like a sewing machine. I can also hear the engine running through its compression stroke too, kind of like when you kick over an old 2 stroke and it doesn't fire right away. This noise only lasts for literally 3 seconds. The car drives fine. When the T/A was DD status it never would do that even after it sat for a few days. I'm not too worried about it since it goes away. I'll just let it idle a bit longer like others have suggested.
Old 10-18-2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6


Stabil is good stuff. I've tried storing cars with and without it, and cold start performance is always better with it. It's even more important if the car has a metal gas tank, where rust can be an issue especially with modern ethanol-containing fuels.

.


Some love it, I just don't like it in my car. In a cold climate oxidation slows down and gas should have no problem lasting for at least 6 months. Never had any problem starting my car on a 6 - 8 month layoff. Just a personal preference, although I've read the new version of sta-bil is better for ethanol blends.
Old 10-18-2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BrntWS6
In a cold climate oxidation slows down
This is true, but some years I don't drive the car enough to need a fresh tank of gas until the following fall, so fuel from the previous fall is still in the tank all summer. My '98 and '71 also have metal tanks, so this is more of a concern for me than it might be for you plastic tank guys.

Sounds like you've had good results without it, but my experience has been longer cranking times on a cold start once the fuel gets to about 6 months old or more without it. Now I just use it with every fill up, which is usually only 1-3 times per year for my '98.
Old 10-19-2012, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Sounds like you've had good results without it, but my experience has been longer cranking times on a cold start once the fuel gets to about 6 months old or more without it. Now I just use it with every fill up, which is usually only 1-3 times per year for my '98.



You know, I never thought about putting Sta-bil in all year round. I just got a new Toro lawnmower the other month. The owner's manual recommended putting stabilizer in the gas all year round to assure quicker and consistent starts.

I think I'll start putting stabilizer in the trans am and motorcycle all year round, see if there's a difference.

Thanks for the tip, RPM WS6.
Old 10-19-2012, 10:21 AM
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Mine sits in the garage for more than half the year. During the winter I just fill it up with gas and add a bottle of stabil. I keep a car cover on it to keep it from getting dusty.

My current battery is 4 years old now. I never used a battery tender before. This past spring the battery was dead when I took it out of storage. I put it on a trickle charge for a couple days and it's been fine all summer. I will probably end up replacing the battery next spring.
Old 10-19-2012, 10:31 AM
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i park mine in a basic garage, concrete floor, covered up. put it away late october and dont bring it out until april-may. mine sat 8 months last year never did any fuel additives or any charge on my battery. starts right up, it ran a little rough but after about 20 minutes of driving it was fine.. with it covered up it still gets dusty. no flat spots on my tires either.
Old 10-19-2012, 11:02 AM
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Same thing here... I never drove my car during the winter and it was stored outside at the time because I didn't have a garage and I have no problems. That being said I would fire up the motor once every few weeks or so just to pump some fuel through the system.

Coming up here shortly I'm going to be garaging my T/A permanatly. Probably going to be getting a lift for my garage to store it and take it out once in awhile just to keep things flowing smoothly. I didn't really considering adding fuel additives and such until I saw this thread. There is some good info here.
Old 10-19-2012, 12:46 PM
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I got lucky with my car, sat for 2.5 years with no gas additives, got the suspension finished, wheels put back on, and it fired on the first crank. Don't think I'll try that one again.


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