NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

Went to get my old 2001 Z28 with the new owner (a great friend) dyno'd. Needless to say I am pissed with Tuned By Frost. Now I understand that they get it close and can't get the same results that a Dyno Tune can, but wow! The A/F Ratio was 12 no where near 13.

A buddy use to have the same set-up without the 102/102, but with a ported LS6 intake he ran 366hp/405tq

Temperature: 85°F Humidity: 65%

Mods:
Yank 3600SS, Fast 102/102, 100mm MAF, 104 FTP LID, TSP 1 7/8 Headers, TSP True Duals, ASP Pulley, Tuned By Frost.

Final Numbers:

323HP/327TQ


Guess a Dyno/Speed Density Tune is next

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

im not a fan of mail order tunes myself.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

If I had to do a tune sight unseen, I'd make it rich too.

Otherwise it's just going to be a whiney bitch parade
crying about blown motors instead of short dyno results.
Only blown motor is a little bit harder to touch up.

Question is whether commanded equals delivered AFR.
If the tune file says 12.7 and your meter says 12.0,
odds are this is due to somebody not telling the whole
story about sensors and configuration. A remote tune
guy has no way of knowing about basic air mass
fidelity other than what you tell him. So guesses are
part of the package you get.

The question is not why mail order tunes sometimes fall
short of ideal. The question is, why does anyone want
to be in that business? You get to deal with the uninformed
cheapskate segment, pretty much. That's "retail sucks"
with a second helping of suck, for later.

hrcslam

Jimmyblue, I agree. It's better to tune it on the richer side of things as a mail order tune. It's what I've been noticing of a lot of the tunes I've looked over.

m1a2d3

is the cam stock?

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

and this why i prefer to get tuned locally.

NVUSZ28

iTrader: (5)

It's just what I get for trying to poor-boy it, oh well, should've known better...

wicked383lt1

That's why I went with Dan Maslic. I'm lucky enough to be close to him and he's the best!

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I've never understood them either...maybe to get you to the dyno if you were nervous about driving it but that would be it.

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

I didn't see any mention of a cam.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

What the hell was you hoping for ?

Cam results with no cam ?

QucikSilver

iTrader: (4)

Who cares about dyno numbers. How does it run at the track? Anyone can fudge numbers on a dyno, but if you don't race on a dyno, why worry about the numbers. Those aren't really too far off for that setup. You might could pull 15 more out of with a good dyno tune, or pull another 150 with a good nitrous setup.

Just my .02

rare01Vert

The numbers actually don't look too bad. That's right around what I'd expect with those mods and a stalled auto. A dyno tune would probably net you a little more but nothing to write home about. Take her to the track and she what she does.

SoFla01SSLookinstok

Your buddy w/ the same setup minus the 102/102, was he on the same dyno? What about the temp. humidity? I think with your mods you should def be closer to his #'s. To go to a dyno after doing all those mods is kind of pointless as you had no baseline to see what you gained or lost. Does the car seem/feel faster than it was? I know these are all just #'s but down here in hot S.Florida my car put down 349/360 with just lid, long tubes, ORY & dyno tune on a mustang dyno. I hope you figure it out. I would also get a dyno tune & just see what she can do at the track at this point. Good luck man!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

So your friend had an A4 with 1-7/8 LTs, true duals, pulley, air lid, and modified LS6 intake and made 366rwhp/405rwtq?

If so, that's incredible for an A4. I would not expect to see those results often, and frankly that torque number is crazy-high for the mods and therefore I would classify those numbers as a fluke and not worry about trying to match them with another car.

So the A/F is obviously not ideal, and therefore a dyno tune will probably net another ~10-15rwhp, putting you in the ~335-340rwhp range, but with an average increase across the board that should result in a noticeable acceleration improvement. That would seem about normal for the mods, IMO. The big intake/MAF/lid arrangement isn't going to net big gains on a stock internal NA engine.

Like someone mentioned above, without a before/after number on the same dyno, the current number doesn't mean too much. The dyno is a great tool to see gains after mods, but not so much for direct comparison of two different cars on two different dynos/days/operators/etc.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

OP, I highly suggest you spend some more time reading on dynos and tuning before you bash a forum sponsor for doing what looks to me to be a damn fine mail order tune.

You have a stalled automatic with a few basic bolt ons, one of which being a pain in the *** Fast 102 intake and the mail order tune still did exactly what it was supposed to do...put you in the ballpark for peak power and be 100% safe and reliable.

If you though your stalled auto with header and an intake was going to go over 340rwhp, you had unrealistic expectations or are used to seeing a severely happy dyno.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

Get a n actual dyno tune and see what you pick up. Im betting you wont see more than a 15 hp difference. You have a stalled auto, so you shouldn't expect it to put down big numbers even with your mods. Take it to the track and see what it does, that'll tell you how well your setup is performing.

I personally used a frost tune as a BASE tune for my cam swap to get it to the dyno, and that's all it should be used for...

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

I agree with mjs1012. And why does it matter now? Not your car?

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Looks spot on a/f to me. Looks 12.2-12.4 on the chart, and it's going to run leaner on the street then the dyno. OP is complaining for no reason - 320rwhp is a steller # for a stalled auto with bolt ons.

soloman369

iTrader: (13)

Op has gone bin laden . I don't think we will see him soon .