AthensLS1

iTrader: (2)

Does the dumb thing just unscrew? I was afraid I'd break it because it doesn't seem to want to unscrew. I'm flushing my radiator for the first time. The car has 105k miles and I'm the original owner so I figure it's about time.

Thanks,
Chris

2001NBMZ28

Yep, counterclockwise. It's easy to break so be careful.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Like he said......I also recommend buying another one ($2.00) before you attempt to open the old one so you have it there in case you break it. Otherwise you're stuck.

Also, take the petcock all the way out, not just to where it starts to dain. It will drain much faster and make the flush go by much quicker.

Maybe you want to read this, its how I do a flush and I find it the easiest most throrough way to flush it 100% clean.

Best/easiest way to flush and get every drop of old coolant out.

-Cold engine.
-Remove radiator fill cap.
-Remove the t-stat. (2-3 minute job)
-Put t-stat housing back on. (1 minute) Just put one bolt in, no need to put them both in, there’s no pressure in the system during the flush.
-Take the entire radiator drain valve (petcock) "off", don't just open it. It'll drain faster with it off and thats what you want. ((Buy a new petcock, sometimes they break when you remove them all the way, they're like $2.00))
-Take a hose and stick it in the radiator fill cap, running medium to high.
-Start the engine.
-Let it run for about 15-20 minutes or until the water is running out the drain CLEAR.
-When it does your entire system is clean.
-Put the t-stat back in.
-Put the drain valve back in. Use the new one, what the hell.
-Put half a jug of Dexcool in the radiator. (Or if you live in very cold places, 1 ½ jugs of Dexcool)
-Fill the rest with water.
you do not need to use distilled water, clean hose water is just fine, just make sure your city water is clean.

**Start it up and let it run and warm up till the t-stat opens once and starts to flow, if the level drops just top it off with coolant/water. Then wait one more time for the t-stat to open and start to flow, if it drops down again top it off again. Do it again if you want to make sure. I always massage the upper and lower hoses while its warming up to help move the air bubble by the t-stat on the engine side of the t-stat. Always works like a charm.

Done.

.

AthensLS1

iTrader: (2)

Great, thanks guys. I'm hesitant to remove the t-stat because I've never done it before, but I'll see if I can find a guide on it.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Here's the guide:

Takle the two bolts out.
Leave the radiator hose attached to the t-stat housing, no need to remove it.
Push the t-stat wings down and twist the t-stat free of the mounts, it comes right out.

Bolt the housing back up and flush.

Then push the t-stat wings in and twist it back into the mounts
Bolt it back up.

Thats it.


.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Haha since when is city water clean? Always got stuff in it!

AthensLS1

iTrader: (2)

Well, that was pretty easy.

Thanks for the help, everyone.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Ours is perfect and so is most of the country. Been using for 20 years and my radiators are always spotless.

Just make sure your city water is clean

I added that because obvious some poeple live in places where the water is ****. Some cities are garbage dumps, can't do anything about that.


.

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

So do these t-stats require you to change the gasket when you do this?

fleetmgr

Gaskets are a consumable. If it's been installed longer than a month, replace it. I'd much rather spend the buck or so than deal with the leak later.

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Oh, for sure, just every right up I see no one mentions the gasket, so I thought maybe these had an o-ring or something different. Thanks